R230 Cannot get into boot

[evosingh]

Hi all

Got a problem with my dads 2003 R230 SL55, basically we cannot get the boot open.

I know the PSE pump has failed as the central locking does not work.

I've tried using the key to unlock the boot - but the lock seems to dis-engage and not actually unlock the boot.

I thought i could maybe get into the boot by opening the roof - but that refuses to open as the car says the boot cover is open - is this a symptom of PSE failure?

Is there a vacuum line i could get to and use a hand pump to open it?

How can i get the boot open to replace the pump?

Any help/ideas would be appreciated

Prit

 

[Alex Crow]

sounds like the fuse for the PSE has blown, this will give you the problem of the roof not opening for the reason you correctly guessed. i suggest you change the fuse (72 i think under the O/S rear 'seat' cubby hole) and quickly try to open the roof before it pops again. with the lock are you trying it correctly? turn key 90 degrees anticlockwise and pull handle with key in this position - you should feel greater resistance at the handle as the mechanical lock release is used (normally the handle only works a microswitch which signals the PSE unit to open the catch pneumatically).

good advice for all these boots is for owners to double check that they can open with the key every 6 months or so.

 

[drmw]

first thing to try is to check the fuse - behind the driver's seat in the storage box, false floor-lift that out, the PSE fuse is the yellow 20amp close to the centre. It may have blown and although that means there is a problem for sure, replacing might just let it work for a bit.

Failing that the key lock for the boot isn't intuitive. put the key in the lock and looking from above, turn it clockwise. Hold it in that position and with the other hand, pull the boot release handle per normal. The key won't stay in that postion & it's not possible to leave the lock "disengaged" - you have to go through that procedure every time.

From a veteran of 3 PSE pump replacements on 2 R230s !

 

[television]

Once you are inside, take off the 4 nuts that hold the roof pump,lift it to one side and the pump lifts out.

Please let us know the outcome and do not dispose of you old PSE pump yet, also let us know if the foam block that the pump sits in is wet

 

[evosingh]

Thanks for the help so far guys

I have checked the fuse (20 amp - behind the drivers seat) - it is fine, but no joy getting the pump running even briefly.

I tried the key again - i think think the mechanism may be broken!! There is alot of resistance as i turn start to turn the key, but then it suddenly breaks free and turns much further than 90 degrees from start position.

Any further ideas?

Prit

 

[andy@pcd-ltd]

It does sound like the pump has gone down.

I know when i worked for merc we were sent instructions of how to confuse the roof control unit into thinking the boot seperator was down by removing a couple of wires from the rear sam.

With that done you can get the roof to open and then you can replace the pse pump.

It might be worth getting the car put on a star machine to see if the pump has failed

 

[television]

Early cars have 1 switch for the cover and later ones 2, I will try and look at the circuit diagrams to see where they are wired to

I know that when just connected to STAR and a quick test it will run the pump,I wonder if this would work

 

[evosingh]

Hi all

Havent had a chance to to look at the boot lately. Does any body know how to fool the car into thinking the boot seperator is closed?

I have read somewhere its possible to open the boot by breaking the brake light right above the lock and pulling a lever located below it - is that true? dont really want to start breaking things just yet unless im certain it will work.

Regards
Prit

 

[carnut13]

Hi all

Havent had a chance to to look at the boot lately. Does any body know how to fool the car into thinking the boot seperator is closed?

I have read somewhere its possible to open the boot by breaking the brake light right above the lock and pulling a lever located below it - is that true? dont really want to start breaking things just yet unless im certain it will work.

Regards
Prit

They are £90 each so it might actually be cheaper , and more thorough, to put it on STAR

 

[ZacSL350]

I had a similar problem with my SL about two years ago. The PSE failed, the roof divider was not engaged and I was unable to open boot with the key (the key mechanism ceases up as it is never used). I didn’t have time to go down the STAR route and ended up drilling a 10mm hole in the boot lid - just lid behind the registration plate. Once the hole is drilled you can tug on a bar which is connected to the latch and the boot pops open. If I remember correctly I found information at that time on one of the US sites. I know it sounds drastic and I was very reluctant at the time to proceed but it works and the hole can be easily repaired afterwards. Hopefully you won’t have to go down this route but if you need info just let me know as I took some pics of where I had to drill at the time.

 

[television]

I will look up the wiring diagram, you are OK if the wires go into the car, even it it does the whole or the rear paneling behind the seats will have to come out.

I have not had a chance to look on STAR to see if the switch can be over ridden

There is a connector X8/4 where the partition switch terminates, cant find where that it yet

 

[Alex Crow]

to the right of the boot opening handle is a round plastic piece. if it were me i would drill it out to its full diameter, and try to manipulate the release lever/rod to the left of the handle through the opening.

 

[W1Z]

I just had this exact same problem and managed to solve it so I thought I'd share.

The lock mech sticks over time, that's the problem and vibration is the answer. Try holding the key in the open position, then repeatedly pull the release handle up and let it "ping" back again. The thud of the handle returning was enough in my case to release the mech and after a few goes, I felt the catch fall into place so the handle opened the boot (trunk).

If that isn't enough, try to find some way of vibrating panel fast whilst holding the key in the "open" position. Maybe an obital sander might work if you placed several layers of polishing cloth on the panel to protected it and then pressed the sander onto the cloth.

HTH

 

[television]

I just had this exact same problem and managed to solve it so I thought I'd share.

The lock mech sticks over time, that's the problem and vibration is the answer. Try holding the key in the open position, then repeatedly pull the release handle up and let it "ping" back again. The thud of the handle returning was enough in my case to release the mech and after a few goes, I felt the catch fall into place so the handle opened the boot (trunk).

If that isn't enough, try to find some way of vibrating panel fast whilst holding the key in the "open" position. Maybe an obital sander might work if you placed several layers of polishing cloth on the panel to protected it and then pressed the sander onto the cloth.

HTH

Spraying all of the moving parts with PTFE can work wonders in keeping all of the mechanism silky smooth so that they can all return to their correct positions, I did all of mine when I first bought the car some 5 years ago.

For anyone who has a Euro lock spray some in and on the key, it makes the putting in the key so smooth

 

[W1Z]

Spraying all of the moving parts with PTFE can work wonders in keeping all of the mechanism silky smooth so that they can all return to their correct positions, I did all of mine when I first bought the car some 5 years ago.

For anyone who has a Euro lock spray some in and on the key, it makes the putting in the key so smooth

Just done that, thanks! Being a biker as well, I have a good supply of a dry PTFE chan lube I use called Profi dry lube (see below). It's PTFE power in a volatile solution, so after spraying the liquid evaporates off very quickly and leaves just the PTFE lube. The advantage is that there is no oil left, which grime tends to stick to.

Just squirted some in the lock and gave it a good workout and now it's working perfectly

 

[daddychris]

My boot will not open

I have the same problem , please help. There saying i need to smash the light

 

[Miffy]

I have the same problem , please help. There saying i need to smash the light

have you tried the solutions offered ? liberal squirting of a ptfe based lubricant, and work the key, it should eventually free itself.

 

[evosingh]

Hi

I thought i'd try and do this myself in the end, the brake light was damaged anyway, so off I went and broke the light - you can see the top of the lock mechanism from the hole where the light is.

From there you can see the lock tumbler and the lever that pushes the lock open mechanically. You will need to use the key to turn the lock out of the way.

I sprayed the lock and key loads but it didnt free up the lock.

Anyway, im in the boot now and have pulled the pump out and decided to open it up. It was damp inside. Tested the pump motor by applying 12v directly to it - mine worked just fine.
I left the pump housing open for a while and blew of as much water from the PCB using teh compressed air lines at work and left it open near a heat source to dry up. Put the thing back together and it kind of works now, the boot releases just fine using the butting as it shoudl do, but it doesnt pull it down when the boot lid is closed. Also, i dont think the some of the other bits controlled by the unit are working - but im not sure what else is controlled by the PSE.

Now i just need to get the lock mechanism out of the boot lid so i can check the lock tumbler - but i have no idea how the plastic trim around the boot handle and lock tumber above the number plate come out so i can remove the mechanism - any ideas anyone?

Also - anyone got any idea how much i should pay for a new brake light and a PSE unit?

Prit

 

[television]

The center brake light is around £125, the pump £800.

The chances are this is the pump as you have a water leak in the sear screen seals ( the DIY on this will be finished this week) The PCB needs to be removed and cleaned properly.

You will also find a thread by member Wiz on this very issue where the pump was not putting out enough suction to pull down the boot, he explains how he took it apart and fixed it.

It is no good just replacing the pump for if you do not fix the boot leaks this new one will go the same way

 

[evosingh]

Hi all - quick update of what iv'e managed to do.

I had to dismantle the bottom half of the boot lid so i could get the lock mechanism out. It was worth it, i've sorted out the lock tumbler - some how the tumbler became disengaged from the barrel itself - i just spun it round uuntil it re-engaged.

While i had the mechanism out I put some expoxy resin over the 6 tubles that have ball bearings in them - see here
Its actually possible to remove that unit from the casing - its held in by two tabs - makes the job alot easier.

The only money i had to spend was the third brake light (£79+vat from Greenoaks slough) and some new plastic rivets for the trim panel ( broke mine as they were a pig to remove)

The close assist is working just fine, the pse pump is working fine now - I do have a different problem though - the e-fuse keeps tripping out on the pse pump. I think there is a vacuum leak under the drivers seat - anyone now where this usually occurs? Fortunatly we dont use the boot that much so its not too much trouble to just pull the fuse when it happens.

Television - did you get round to finishing that guide for the roof seals? be nice if i could sort that out too

Priit