R230 Dual Battery On-board Electrical System

PHUNN

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SL350 September 2014 3500cc 7G Auto Iridium Silver R231
'Here we are again'.... Boot battery et al.
An update on the consequences of Deep Freeze which started on 13 January 2021.
Service and 'Star' session with my Covid nervous (and quite right too) Merc.specialist became due and passed without incident. No faults other than low voltage warnings which were to be expected after the completely flat boot battery syndrome.
So I brought the car home and washed it, paying, as usual, particular attention to the underside for road salt etc.
Finished the task, locked the car and retired indoors.
Later that evening noticed a strange noise. The engine cooling fan was running in the unattended, stone cold and still locked car!
And I could not get it to stop!!
Long story short; was forced to disconnect the boot battery and leave the car overnight.
The following day I discovered the top/lid on the engine bay fuse box was not properly fixed. Some of the visible fuses were wet.
Applied a borrowed hair dryer and after the necessary battery re-charging (again!) and re-connection, the problem has not (so far!) recurred.

Conclusion: (some being a re-statement of the bleeding obvious)

Check your manual key-hole boot lock is lubricated and works.

Do not let your batteries go flat, especially the boot battery which powers almost all the car.

If the engine cooling fan won't stop (and you don't know which fuse to pull) it's the boot battery which provides the power.

If the batteries must be disconnected then read the manual for the correct sequence (Negative first on disconnection. Positive first on re-connection).
The manual tells you about the need to reset the Time (my car recognised my mobile phone and swagged the time therefrom!) and mirrors (simply swing in and out on the button)

When reconnecting the boot battery make sure you have ALREADY closed the boot separator, even though this obstructs the view of the battery.

If the car is un-powered, pay attention when closing the doors and check the windows are sealed if you intend to leave the car outside.... If you press the top of the window glass when closing the unpowered door it is possible to persuade a reasonable fit.

When powering up the car after disconnection re-set the windows by running them up and down.

If the central locking seems to have failed, press the key 'unlock' button twice in quick succession. It may just be a 'reset syndrome'. That is what happened in my case. There was, it seems, nothing wrong with the Central Locking....merely the security procedure had been altered during the flat battery problem!

If the gear shift is stuck in 'Park' you can in an emergency sometimes wake it up by pumping the brake pedal or by holding down the brake pedal for some (10?) seconds.

If many 'cooks' have been 'under your bonnet' then check they have done the 'washing up'! Two garages and two AA chaps were involved in my saga. Somebody did not replace the fuse box properly....
 

murphe5

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1991 500SL R129
Hi All,
I purchased a 2004 Sl500 recently with a few issues :)

1) Radio not working - fixed by replacing the fuses on the radio and amp
2) Left right corner sagging - have not start to investigated this yet
3) Battery warning light on the dash

I have spent some time troubleshooting the battery light, but have not found a solution yet.
The car starts every time, all electrical items work without any issues.
  • Batteries & alternator seem ok.
    • When car is not started the consumer battery has voltage of 12.86v and the starter battery has voltage of 12.90v.
    • When the car is started the voltage on the consumer battery rises to 14.10v but the starter battery does not increase.
    • The consumer battery is not original, not AGM, but is 640A 70Ah (See: ConsumerBattery.jpg).
    • The started battery is a Mercedes battery. When I charge this on my cute, the volts do rise to 13.90.
  • I have checked and replaced both started fuses F52F1 and F52F2. I did test the original fuses and they tested ok (See: StarterFuses.jpg).
  • At the weekend I looked at the BNS module. From the top side the board does look ok. I have not looked underneath the board yet. When I connect my STAR kit to the car, I cannot connect to the BNS and get a "could not initialize " error (See: Star.jpg). Is this pointing to an issue with the BNS? Are there any dependencies on the BNS to get power. Could the K57 Or the K75 relays be an issue? (I have attached screenshots BNS1.jpg and BNS2.jpg)
I have referred to the "R230 Dual battery On-board Electrical System" pdf.
I'd appreciate any suggestions at the stage. I do suspect this car has a history of being jump started, this may have contributed to the issue.

Thanks in advance!
 

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SL63 Mark

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R231 SL63 AMG
Personally the first thing I would do is fit the correct Mercedes battery. They are AGM, not lead acid. They can be purchased from MB, and do not cost much over £100. Well worth doing. Using the correct battery may fix your battery issues, they are quite sensitive to the correct battery.

The sinking corner is an ABC issue, you need a flush and re-fill, and perhaps a ride on the Star Rodeo. It may be valve block issues, but a good independent will be able to advise. My sinking rear corner was fixed after the system was drained and flushed.

I notice your "Left Right" corner is sagging, I don't have one of those on my car. ;)
 
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murphe5

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1991 500SL R129
Thanks Mark
I'll look at ordering a new battery. From the "R230 Dual battery On-board Electrical System" pdf, it does state that the battery should be 70A, but the CCA is higher at 798A. The current battery has CCA of 640A.
Would this help with the powering up the BNS module? I don't see voltage change on the starter battery when the car is started.

"Left Right corner" .. :) I wrote this too early in the morning!
I have a new filter and oil on order. Should have it in a few days.
 

SL63 Mark

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Thanks Mark
I'll look at ordering a new battery.
Would this help with the powering up the BNS module? I don't see voltage change on the starter battery when the car is started.

"Left Right corner" .. :) I wrote this too early in the morning!
I have a new filter and oil on order. Should have it in a few days.

The thing about the 230 is that if something is wrong (e.g. wrong battery, corroded connectors ) it can throw up a load of spurious, unconnected, random errors. The first thing is to put the correct battery in, and then see if that fixes the problem which I believe was a battery warning light on the dash. If not, go from there.
 

murphe5

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The thing about the 230 is that if something is wrong (e.g. wrong battery, corroded connectors ) it can throw up a load of spurious, unconnected, random errors. The first thing is to put the correct battery in, and then see if that fixes the problem which I believe was a battery warning light on the dash. If not, go from there.
Thanks Mark, I'll order a new battery today.
 

AJBaird

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SL500
Interesting thread and thanks for the PDF. I'm going to change my consumer battery and note that the document states:

Potential systems requiring normalizing are:

• ESP - electronic stability program

• AAC - automatic air conditioning (2 items)

• Left front seat (7 items)

• Right front seat (7 items)

• Steering wheel and mirrors

• Windows

• Tire pressure monitoring


What am I likely to need to reset and how do I go about the necessary resetting?

Any input gratefully received.

Cheers

Andrew
 

PHUNN

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SL350 September 2014 3500cc 7G Auto Iridium Silver R231
First; a reply to Andrew B. I was intrigued to read your list of 'Potential systems requiring normalizing' and wondered which 'document states:' that list?
The good news (just maybe..!) is that when I reconnected my Consumer battery (full Saga above' dated 5 March 2021) it was only necessary to 'do' the mirrors, the windows and the tyre pressure monitoring. Of course, it could be that the rest of the list is lurking, un-announced in the undergrowth, waiting to spring out and surprise me.... But so far so good.
Second; the 'jammed in Park' syndrome repeated itself several times over the subsequent weeks. Very patient AA!!
So took the car back to my Merc guru.
The starter battery, while seeming to accept charge from the CteK charger, turned out to be faulty. It was, probably, original equipment; 12 years old?)
Anyway, now replaced and no subsequent recurrence of the problem over 10 days and several outings. Fingers, once again, remain crossed.
 

SL63 Mark

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First; a reply to Andrew B. I was intrigued to read your list of 'Potential systems requiring normalizing' and wondered which 'document states:' that list?
The good news (just maybe..!) is that when I reconnected my Consumer battery (full Saga above' dated 5 March 2021) it was only necessary to 'do' the mirrors, the windows and the tyre pressure monitoring.
This is correct, I have disconnected the consumer battery on my R230 many times, and the only thing that requires re-setting is the windows and occasionally the folding mirrors, although usually they seem ok.

To re-set the windows, just pull up the switch and hold for 10 seconds in the closed position.

Like most 230 owners my TPM system was scrapped years ago. The batteries fail in the sensors, and they cost big money to replace.

I find a tyre pressure gauge works just fine.

The seats can require re-setting, if you disconnected the battery when they were tipped forward to allow rear access.

The motto is - leave them be if possible. If necessary, they are easy to reset using the seat memory buttons. (You did save your favourite setting, didn't you ?)
 
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AJBaird

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Thanks all, that is very reassuring. I got the list of possible things requiring reset from p36 of the PDF. Good to hear that I don't have to worry about them all.

All responses are much appreciated as I'm used to 'simpler' cars. My Z4 has its moments, but my MX5 had no power steering, no central locking, no electric windows, no air con, and a manual hood. Rust caught up with it in the end (there's only so many times you can get the welder out...), but I miss it.

Cheers

Andrew
 

weldmobile1959

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mercedes 350sl r230
I have a 350sl 2003 I want to change the F52f1 fuse but all the info refers to American cars saying the fuse is in the passenger footwell,does that mean in a uk car its under the steering column or is it in our passenger footwell !!
 

Timeandleisure

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Just looking through this older thread any advances on the CTEK MXS 5.0 or would this still be adequate for an R230 03 please? My car is off road but the boot doesn’t seem to close tightly so thinking it might need a charge...
 

Blobcat

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Just looking through this older thread any advances on the CTEK MXS 5.0 or would this still be adequate for an R230 03 please? My car is off road but the boot doesn’t seem to close tightly so thinking it might need a charge...
Yes, I've 3 of those running now and they all keep their batteries perfectly
 

NJS5

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2011 R230 SL350, 2016 Discovery 4 Landmark, 1973 MG B GT V8, 1959 MGA roadster.
Just looking through this older thread any advances on the CTEK MXS 5.0 or would this still be adequate for an R230 03 please?
I have a range of CTEK chargers and use a MXS5 to keep my R230's battery alive. Is you only have need for one charger there is an argument to go for a slightly more powerful & thus quicker charger, maybe the MXS 7.

NJSS
 

LostKiwi

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I've been using a pair of Maypole 4A chargers (2443 from memory?) for the past 3 or 4 years to keep my cars that are stored in a barn fully charged. Work perfectly and dirt cheap for keeping a battery charged. Not so good if the battery is flat though as it will take forever.
 

Timeandleisure

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I have a range of CTEK chargers and use a MXS5 to keep my R230's battery alive. Is you only have need for one charger there is an argument to go for a slightly more powerful & thus quicker charger, maybe the MXS 7.

NJSS
Thank you very much! Good to know that 5 is still as good as the 7...... products seem to be scarcer and pricier these days!
I've been using a pair of Maypole 4A chargers (2443 from memory?) for the past 3 or 4 years to keep my cars that are stored in a barn fully charged. Work perfectly and dirt cheap for keeping a battery charged. Not so good if the battery is flat though as it will take forever.
thank you! Dead as a dodo I’m afraid... but will bear the others in mind.
 

LostKiwi

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Thank you very much! Good to know that 5 is still as good as the 7...... products seem to be scarcer and pricier these days!

thank you! Dead as a dodo I’m afraid... but will bear the others in mind.
For charging purposes I use an MXS10. Must be getting on for 10 years old now.
Originally bought for charging big leisure batteries for my Defender.
 


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