R230 roof not going down

[RhodieBill]

I reckon, in my very humble opinion, that it is a sticking Sensor, The roof might think it is already Open/Down so therefore it thinks that you are trying to open a Roof that is already open.

 

[LostKiwi]

If it's the separator switch it will tell you to close separator when you try to open the roof. It may be worth opening the separator to see if it does tell you.

 

[ajlsl600]

if you have access to a dry garage with room to get around the car, continue. if not and twas me i would leave it till spring ,unless yr able to swallow the costs of getting someone to deal with it. even worse outcome stuck halfway ,tho unlikely or stuck open and you have no dry space to get around the car. it has pxxxed down here for a month now, ....but i have plenty of dry space . its most likely a conflict of stuck/faulty switch. and car not understanding where to start. good luck

 

[SL63 Mark]

I am confused as to whether the roof is currently in the open or closed position. Definitely worth cleaning the microswitches on the boot luggage separator, this is the cause of many a 230 roof issue.

Also any other microswitches you currently have access to. Not sure if roof is open or closed, but if open, there are a set above the windscreen, I believe. Ultimately, if the rear battery is fully charged (maybe test the voltage with a meter ?) it may need to go on Star for a proper diagnostic.

 

[RyanSL500]

I am confused as to whether the roof is currently in the open or closed position. Definitely worth cleaning the microswitches on the boot luggage separator, this is the cause of many a 230 roof issue.

Also any other microswitches you currently have access to. Not sure if roof is open or closed, but if open, there are a set above the windscreen, I believe. Ultimately, if the rear battery is fully charged (maybe test the voltage with a meter ?) it may need to go on Star for a proper diagnostic.

Sorry I probably should have said the position of the roof the begin with! The roof is currently up which is probably the best situation for this to happen in! It’s currently in dry storage so it’s not the end of the world. I’ve got a basic tool set and I’m happy to spend my weekend slowly exploring the system. Although I have to admit, seeing all the wires does intimidate me as I have. I mechanical knowledge apart from what I’ve read online! I’m going to call the body shop and see what they suggest.

 

[SL63 Mark]

Right I have got you, so the roof is in the "closed" position. That makes it difficult to reach some parts of the mechanism, but at least the car is drivable. Advice as above, properly charge the battery, clean the microswitches, then get it on STAR.

 

[Wighty]

Is there a fluid level you can check in the pump ?

 

[Flyinspanner]

Doing bodywork, did the shop do any welding on it?

Hopefully they disconnected the battery, welding can give large voltage spikes. ...or welding (heat) near wiring looms can damage insulation.

Ideally get it checked on STAR at a local specialist, and take it from there. Otherwise you can chase your tail - hopefully it’s just an errant microswitch.

 

[RyanSL500]

Doing bodywork, did the shop do any welding on it?

Hopefully they disconnected the battery, welding can give large voltage spikes. ...or welding (heat) near wiring looms can damage insulation.

Ideally get it checked on STAR at a local specialist, and take it from there. Otherwise you can chase your tail - hopefully it’s just an errant microswitch.

I imagine so. The car had the rust around both rear arches repaired. Not sure wether the quarter panels were taken off the car or not. Some trim was left lose in the boot when I collected it and needed putting back in correctly. So I imagine they took them off?

 

[RyanSL500]

If it's the separator switch it will tell you to close separator when you try to open the roof. It may be worth opening the separator to see if it does tell you.

I thought this was the case too. But I’ve tried opening the roof with the separator in place and out and no messages appear when I try opening the roof.

 

[Blobcat]

I thought this was the case too. But I’ve tried opening the roof with the separator in place and out and no messages appear when I try opening the roof.

If you're not getting messages if the separator is open or closed then that would be my first point of call - I'd give the switch a good workout and plenty of contact cleaning lubricant initially and see if you can get the message on the dash advising it's open when you try to drop the top.

 

[LostKiwi]

If you're not getting messages if the separator is open or closed then that would be my first point of call - I'd give the switch a good workout and plenty of contact cleaning lubricant initially and see if you can get the message on the dash advising it's open when you try to drop the top.

No point. If the switch is made it will try to operate, if it's not it will post the close separator message. I doubt it's the switch. It's something before it gets to that.

 

[Blobcat]

No point. If the switch is made it will try to operate, if it's not it will post the close separator message. I doubt it's the switch.

But if no message either way then something isn't right with the signal going back. If the switch isn't reporting that the separator is open then it's no doing it's only job.

 

[LostKiwi]

But if no message either way then something isn't right with the signal going back. If the switch isn't reporting that the separator is open then it's no doing it's only job.

The switch is a binary option. It's either open or closed. In one position it will flag an alarm. In the other it doesn't see anything wrong so will continue. Something else is the problem. Best get it on a diagnostic and look at live values.

 

[flowrider]

Update: Took the car out for its weekly drive (to keep everything charged and moving) and thought I’d have a go diagnosing the issue. Having watched lots of videos and read lots of articles, I thought of myself as an R230 roof expert. After an hour of unscrewing and taking trim off, I’ve realised that I know Jack s**t and should stick to being an accountant! I’m pretty certain the issue relates to the roof separator switch, but I think I might enquire with PCS, give them the situation and see if they can solve the riddle! I’m hoping it’s something real simple!

Star will be able to tell you which switch is the issue, worth paying for a star diagnostic in my view.

 

[RyanSL500]

UPDATE: so the cars been looked at and it appears that there are a number of modules who are not communicating with STAR. It’s not 100% known, but the only plausible malfunction is coming from the ignition module which is the central point for all of the modules - something to do with the CAD system. So the theory is that a new ignition module and switch should solve the problem.

 

[LostKiwi]

There are 2 CAN bus connectors that can give issues. One is under the fuse box behind the drivers seat and the other is in the drivers sill half way down the door (you'll need to lift carpets to find them). It's worth checking them and spraying liberally with contact cleaner (or better still switch cleaner) . They look like long thin connectors with lots of 2 wire connectors plugging into them. They act as distribution points for canbus.

 

[Blobcat]

There are 2 CAN bus connectors that can give issues. One is under the fuse box behind the drivers seat and the other is in the drivers sill half way down the door (you'll need to lift carpets to find them). It's worth checking them and spraying liberally with contact cleaner (or better still switch cleaner) . They look like long thin connectors with lots of 2 wire connectors plugging into them. They act as distribution points for canbus.

My money would be the one in the sill being damp

 

[LostKiwi]

My money would be the one in the sill being damp

Yep

 

[RyanSL500]

There are 2 CAN bus connectors that can give issues. One is under the fuse box behind the drivers seat and the other is in the drivers sill half way down the door (you'll need to lift carpets to find them). It's worth checking them and spraying liberally with contact cleaner (or better still switch cleaner) . They look like long thin connectors with lots of 2 wire connectors plugging into them. They act as distribution points for canbus.

Cheers for that! It’s worth a shot trying it before spending £750 on a new ignition!