Rear window seal repair with rust fix.

[peterws1957]

(Puts tail between leg).

I washed the car the other day with power hose.. noticed the boot separator flap was nicely wet.... The separator was up, but if it had been down, the usual spot on carpet would have been wet.

Not sure why this is. Or what is causing it. Perhaps the rubber seal piece is a bit warped and not letting the water run through to the drain. Did I miss a part of Malcolms fix where he left a small piece of hose in there or something to keep it open?

See highlighted area, do I need to do something with this? Or did I just do a bad job? Perhaps was just the extra flow of the power wash...? Because to be honest, it's rained plenty since the repair and boot has stayed nice and dry..

View attachment 72129


View attachment 72128

View attachment 72127

If it's keeping dry during normal rain, I'd be happy with that. When power washing any car, particularly our SL, I keep the spray well away from seals.

 

[Conor]

If it's keeping dry during normal rain, I'd be happy with that. When power washing any car, particularly our SL, I keep the spray well away from seals.

I'm inclined to agree. I think I might have just been a little overzealous with the washer this time. I don't recall it leaking after a wash before.

 

[charlysays]

Fair enough. I think what I have done should be decent for a while anyway. Thanks for the tip.

Hydrate 80 is good stuff as rust converter barriers go, one of the best for sure. It's always a gamble as to whether you'll get some rust recurring with rust converter barriers but I have had what amount to permanent fixes with it despite there still being some pitting filled with oxides. It hasn't bubbled up even after years so yours will indeed last a good while.
After dealing with a number of rusty cars from old Capris to 90s Mercs I always aim to totally eradicate the rust if it is anywhere near or on an outer panel surface, I.e a sprayed glossy on view surface of the car. As said mechanical and chemical means like gentle needle scaling followed by deox gel or strong phosphoric acid will do this. Underneath I usually settle for descaled or ideally shiny pitted surface and will use rust killers/ converters on it but then wire wheel them off and get a good couple of coats of electrox on the steel so that any further corrosion reacts with the zinc in the primer and hopefully then exhausts itself as it's also encapsulated. The white rust which forms against the primer may cause some minor bubbling which isn't an issue underneath.

 

[Malpugh486]

Looked at mine the other week cos I've water coming in. Discovered that the metal plate on the bottom of the rear window is mostly rusted away. Anyone know where I can get a replacement metal strip?

 

[mioba]

@Conor

 

[alexanderfoti]

Not available seperately, its sold as part of the vario roof/rear window. The easiest way to fix would be to buy a used rear window complete.

 

[mioba]

Forgivemy ignorance on this particular car, but could a coach-builder notfabricate and weld in a strip

 

[Monday]

Looked at mine the other week cos I've water coming in. Discovered that the metal plate on the bottom of the rear window is mostly rusted away. Anyone know where I can get a replacement metal strip?

Fascinating thread. When I had this seal replaced on an SL350 (a few years ago now) I had the impression that the new seal came bonded to a metal plate which which was then bolted in. Is it that plate which has corroded?
I may be wrong here, it's a while ago and I didn't do the work myself.

 

[Conor]

Forgivemy ignorance on this particular car, but could a coach-builder notfabricate and weld in a strip

They could.. but find one who can do a good job.. it would be very time consuming i'd say.. and as Alex says.. getting a used one is probably the most efficient route.