releasing rear subframe bushes

tjamesbo

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Bump getting ready to have another go at this , subframe wouldnt drop enough last time just waiting for it to get a bit warmer as its an outside job
 

television

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Bump getting ready to have another go at this , subframe wouldnt drop enough last time just waiting for it to get a bit warmer as its an outside job

So you should be starting in August ;)
 

tjamesbo

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Could Be ... This weekends gone and .....
Next Job is to fix the Problem with Digital gauges in My Boat
I've just dewinterised it and ready to start up when the ignition goes on before turning it over the rev counter shows 1000Rpm:confused: the oil pressure gauge shows a different reading each time the ignition is switched on:confused: and temp gauge is not zeroing :eek: all part of the Foibles of a 2001 Mastercraft X5 . I replaced the Master Data Control unit at a cost of £400 2 years ago and it all ran fine but I had a couple of issues with the oil pressure and temperature gauge last year I was considering replacing them all with analogue gauges but someone on the mastercraft forum has suggested Volt drop on the way to the Data unit could be causing this so First job is to trace the wiring and check for Volt Drops at Connectors & Fuses
Then I have to Finish restoring the gloss to the faded gelcoat I have started this with Abralon 1000 Foam Discs wet on a DA followed by Abralon 2000 wet then abralon 4000 followed by Meguiars 105 Wax yet to be applied
Then theres the Oil Leak on the valley manifold , Hopefully all done before the waters warm enough for skiing :) The reward is being yanked out of the lake by a 5.7V8 as a large amount of throttle is applied ,your straight up and planing along at 30 in no time at all:) then the buoys for the slalom come up:eek: and then before you know it your either at the last one or bombed out hopefully the first:D a quick 180 in the boat and line up for the course again :razz: 2 passes of the course each time with a short dunk in to let the arms recover 6 passes of the course in all, its about all your arms will take then back to Dock for recovery
So as I keep saying to the wife Look I'm Double Busy
 

umblecumbuz

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Thought I'd logged on to ContinuousWave for a moment there!
But hey - that's only for REAL boats, I forgot.
 

Ken_R

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Reading this, reminds me of someone I know. He purchased a concrete hulled yacht that had sunk in a lake.

The first attempt to raise it, with airbags, failed. It was eventually raised using a crane.

Despite a year or two under water, the stored sails, reportedly, were still in good condition.

I believe the local restaurant owners were a little peeved when the vessel was again afloat as the partly submerged mast was actually something of a local attraction.:D
 

jhswalwell

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good evening every one, after getting the engine all running as it should I decided to replace all four rear sub frame bushes...... big mistake started on the drivers side all bolts came out nice and easy, front bush wasn't a bush just a metal pole type thing sitting inside a metal frame work, thought it was going to be easy to do but I just couldn't get the back bush to release, in the end it went with a bang and the front one was changed, I have decided to leave the back one and pay some one who is either far more knowledgeable on rear bushes or braver than me.
I then started on the other side, the front bush is in same if not worse than the first but yet again I cant get the sub frame to drop, I think its corroded onto the inner part of the mount, I have spent hours bashing it today and it still wont release.

can any one give me some advice on how to free it off at all please? its been soaked in WD40 for a couple of days now.

thank you Tony

I know I'm a dollar short and five years too late, but maybe this will help someone else. The reason the subframe wouldn't drop appears to be that you did not release both mounting bolts on the side where you were working. There are four mounts and bolts holding the frame to the body, two left and two right. You must remove both bolts from one side while supporting that side of the subframe (it will most likely drop down if not supported.) Then the frame will pivot down around the other side's mounts giving you lots of room to work. Just done it on my 124.
 


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