Remote Locking inoperable

[Flyinspanner]

This AM, car (A209 CLK) did not respond to unlock key, nor spare key, swapped batteries - still no joy.

Unlocked with blade, and car started perfect with key.
Lock/unlock works fine on the dash switch. (Engine running)

Engine off.

Tried the remote from within car and hazards started flashing double speed? (Ign on then off stopped them).

Checked all 3 remote locking fuses and they are ok.

Noticed when I shut door the glass didn’t go back up as normal (it’s a convertible) - and the clock looked like it’s on the wrong time.....

I’ve hooked up the battery on CTEK just in case, but does anyone have experience of this?

Hoping it’s just a transient low voltage “crazies” event - but if the remote lock behaves the same later, anything else I can check, and where is that item - thanks.

 

[sonic]

I would wait until the CTEK shows fully charged battery then check again. There have been a lot of electrical issues caused by a low battery voltage of late.

 

[Flyinspanner]

I’ve had main battery on charge overnight and no change.

Ive even tried another set of new fob batteries. No joy.

I suspect it will maybe be the IR receiver in the door handle?

is that the only receiver on the car?

I may pop it off and check the solder on the board.

Does anyone know if star can confirm IR receiver fault?

If I bought a replacement receiver, is it just plug & play or would it need coding?

are there any other likely culprits?

 

[Flyinspanner]

Update.

All fixed

Fuse 8 in the boot, not listed as part of central locking, but it feeds the RF receiver/amp.

 

[mattkh]

Thanks for the update.
I am confused about the 'fuse in the boot'. On your car, is the main fuse board in the boot compartment?
Or was the fuse what's called an 'in-line' fuse?

 

[Flyinspanner]

The car has 3 fuse boards.

1) end of dash, drivers side.
2) engine bay, offside against bulkhead.
3) boot nearside, Behind a small side panel.