Repairing front brake segments..

Conor

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Hello team,

Long time..my Clio project is kicking my a$$ and as such haven't had much time for MB these days..

Anywhoo.. I need to repair both front segments on my SL. The usual areas.. where the pipe comes out from engine bay and joins to flexi.

I have already deactivated SBC with STAR.

My main question now is where is the join usually made?

- My initial thought would be in the engine bay, past the rubber grommet and where there is room.. away from the elements and with clean steel to use... but it's very tight in there.
- Do I just gave to move a few thinks like bottles etc out of the way.. then feed in the new pipe and form it around as I go, using a bender where needed.

Thank you
 

alexanderfoti

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On some MB's you can do the flare behind the arch liner, where it will never rust again.

On the 230, it goes straight up and into the engine bay. You will ideally need to make the join there, with a small flaring tool.

Make sure you paint the bare steel original pipe

Alternatively, it may be more straight forward to replace the whole line back to the SBC pump
 
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Conor

Conor

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Thanks Alex.

Thats nice to know about others.. Will probably need to do for the E class at some point.

It's blooming tight in the 230 bay for those pipes.

For the near side I can't see how it would be easier to go back to the pump as the pip appears to go back and cross the bay along the firewall.. potentially true for the off side though.

I'll be going at it this evening. I'll see if I can make a little space by moving bottles and brackets.

Funnily enough.. I've not been able to find much online. Where would you make the join for the nearside?
 

alexanderfoti

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Thanks Alex.

Thats nice to know about others.. Will probably need to do for the E class at some point.

It's blooming tight in the 230 bay for those pipes.

For the near side I can't see how it would be easier to go back to the pump as the pip appears to go back and cross the bay along the firewall.. potentially true for the off side though.

I'll be going at it this evening. I'll see if I can make a little space by moving bottles and brackets.

Funnily enough.. I've not been able to find much online. Where would you make the join for the nearside?
It does route back behind the firewall, but its easy (ish) to snake the new line behind the FW and clip it in. Its one of the reasons I dropped the engine on my CL (to run new lines back the pump).
 
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Conor

Conor

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It does route back behind the firewall, but its easy (ish) to snake the new line behind the FW and clip it in. Its one of the reasons I dropped the engine on my CL (to run new lines back the pump).

Okayy then...

"It's easy (ish)"

But I dropped my engine to do it..

haha ok.. well I actually kind of know what you mean.. I have a small flare tool.. but I can see how it might still be easier to run the line.

P.S. Assume it's all DIN flares, not SAE?
 

alexanderfoti

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Okayy then...

"It's easy (ish)"

But I dropped my engine to do it..

haha ok.. well I actually kind of know what you mean.. I have a small flare tool.. but I can see how it might still be easier to run the line.

P.S. Assume it's all DIN flares, not SAE?
yes all german stuff is DIN.

When you are doing them all back to the pump, and have 45 other things to do in the engine bay, 1.5 hours to drop the drivetrain out the bottom is easier I think. If I was just doing the lines, I wouldn't.
 
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yes all german stuff is DIN.

When you are doing them all back to the pump, and have 45 other things to do in the engine bay, 1.5 hours to drop the drivetrain out the bottom is easier I think. If I was just doing the lines, I wouldn't.

OK fair enough.. I was just joshing lol.
 
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Thanks everybody ..

I patched the N/S line just to the right hand side of the engine where it runs from front to back. There was enough room.

For the O/S I just ran a whole new line from the caliper up to the SBC pump as it was a short enough run.

I bled the system the conventional way (SBC disabled via STAR). When re-enabling it, I did some guided tests with STAR and it said there was air in the system.. So I plan on doing a bleeding session with STAR soon. Just need to ensure I have the correct setup on the fill side.

Thanks for your input everybody.
 

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