Discussion in 'Electrics, Vacuum, Ignition and ECU' started by fast28, Oct 2, 2013.
Thanks for the tip, Westheath!
No. They are different circuits. One battery is a starter / vital function battery and the other is for ancillaries. They are separated by a battery control module.
So what you did was connect one half the car to +12v and the other to -12v.
If thet did connect direct to one another there would have been a almighty spark and bits of molten metal flying around as all the stored energy in both batteries tried to release in milliseconds.
Just a thought, due to the severity of your potential problems.
Why not buy the iCarsoft MBII rather than the i980 MkII.
It does a fair bit more, and can go deeper.
Not a lot more money either.
I’d cancel that order, and get the more comprehensive one pdq!
I like LK don't agree that the batteries would self-cancel.
I am surprised your battery control module is not fried to cinders.
i just noticed 2 people within a month have reverse connected a battery on a CL!!
Full Moon or what?
I do not understand what you write. The car has only 1 battery. It sits in the trunk/boot. Since I've had some problems with losing charge over 3-4-5 days of non-activity, I placed a spare, fully charged, battery (also 90 Ah) in the trunk/boot just to be sure and able to get myself going in case my installed battery dropped just under the voltage that is needed to start the car.
This second/spare battery I erroneously reverse connected. There is only one + clamp and one ground clamp in my car. So no 2-battery system at all.
So the situation of connecting one half of the car to +12 V and the other half of the car to -12V is non-existent. Even impossible.
(By the way, my calculation was wrong. The voltages can be added when the connection is 'in series' or 'inline'. I connected the second battery 'over' the first, or 'parallel', so the calculation was not correct...)
I did opt for the iCarsoft i980 MB II device at € 189! It's twice the price of the iCarsoft i980 MB and frankly, the additional functions are not that useful for me. I understand the MkII device has DPF code reading abilities that the MkI device does not have. I failed to locate a Diesel engine in my CL500... ;o)
The code reader is due for delivery after lunch today. Fingers crossed that deleting the fault codes and possibly using the replacement ABS-BAS-PML-ESP CPU module will solve my remaining problems...
My fan blower motor resistor also died; fan motor on full speed all the time. Even without the key in the ignition. The fan blower motor itself was squeeky over the last few weeks too...
€ 78 bought me a new fan blower motor € 35 a new fan blower motor resistor. Both on Ebay.de. Removal from the car was a breeze; Torx 20, 10 mm metric socket and 20 minutes tops.
Sure hope that clearing the fault codes and installing the fan blower motor & resistor will solve my remaining challenges... Now my brake lights are on continuously, so no save driving possible.
Next is the overhaul of the 2 ABC valve blocks (one for the front axle, one for the rear axle). Now my cars sags a bit over 24-48 hours of non-activity. No real problem: I press 'car up' once and the car almost JUMPS to the +25 mm position.
The two sets of O-rings set me back some € 120 only...
ABC pump repair/overhaul
When I bought my CL500, the ABC system was out of order. The tandempump had given up due to severely contaminated and burnt Pentosil oil in the system.
I sent my ABC-pump to former Eastern Germany (DDR) for an overhaul with a specialist company. These guys are professionals! For € 250 my ABC-pump was back to new. Also I purchased a new filter and 12 l Pentosil oil to purge the old, black and smelly oil from the system. For ± € 475 I repaired my ABC-system. The car itself I bought for silly money in Switserland. The previous owner got a quote for S.fr. 7-8 K from the MB-Dealership! That's ± € 6 - 7 K... Including 'NO guarantees'!
He panicked, distracted the quoted repair cost from the actual value of the car and I bought it. This calculation almost made him pay me additional money... ;o) As a figure of speech...
We don't have the iCarsoft i980 MB II in the UK; there is just the iCarsoft i980 Ver. II or the iCarsoft MB II ( the better one as it does more) £135.
Can you post the full details of the guys that rebuilt your ABC Pump thats a fabulous price!
No problem... Using the iCarsoft device (it is the more expensive one, whatever the name exactly is) I read the pressure of my ABC tandem-pump yesterday: 185-191 Bar. So it is working as in new condition. As expected: the car practically JUMPS to the +25 mm and +50 mm ride height position whenever the button is pushed...
+49 33986 502480 phone
+49 33986 502484 fax
Try to get a hold of Frau Zädow or Frau Bär. Both are very friendly and knowledgeable; have detailed knowledge of the whole ABC-system... A rarity to find such a concentration of in-depth ABC knowledge. Most dealerships are not too familiar with this complicated hydraulic/electronic system and tend to throw new parts at customers' technical problems. Almost at random. At the customer's expense... Not Zädow Automobile. A gem!
Do you own such a device too? I wasn't able to find the ABS module in the software, using the device for the first time yesterday. Wasn't able to find the logged ABS fault code(s), nor clearing them from the car's memory... Wasn't able to check the RPM signal of the 4 ABS sensors (1 on each wheel). Can you help me?
Second mental shutdown
Turns out that, just after reverse connecting my spare/second battery, I did replace the 7,5 A fuse that protects the brake light switch (in the fuse box under the bonnet, lefts side, driver's side in my LHD car). But, stupid me, I put it in ONE SLOT next to where it should have gone! No wonder my brake lights were ON continuously...
Rectified this. Next problem: sometimes my driver's side LED brake light works, sometimes its function is taken over by the reverse light. This 'problem' I already had some weeks before the reverse connected battery incident. Each time it occured, my central display on the dashboard told me about it...
So, reading info on the internet, the next step should be fitting a new brake light switch first. Due to come in tomorrow... Reading from various sources, I understand that a relative simple part like the brake light switch can be the root cause for many ABS-BAS-ESP problems. So, at € 17 including shipment, it's the easiest and cheapest next step before focussing on my other remaining problems...
To be continued...
The replacement of the BAS-ESP-ABS-PML CPU module did bring progress though: now only the BAS message shows up in the central display. The Distronic function, although no message in the display, doesn't work yet. It switches on, but I am unable to set the desired speed. The ABC error message (white in colour, so fairly harmless) has gone.
ABS and ESP messages do not show anymore. However, the MIL for the ABS system (on the right side in my dashboard) still lights up...
All in all, no full result yet. But getting there. I hope...
Hi Well done so far.
My pressure is 188 Bar , somnot quite as good as yours at 191 bar, but they say ots pretty near “as new” and works.
Thanks for the ABC contact always useful.
Yes I do have the MBII.
And yes I could see the ABS system, but as there were no faults, not sure if it would clear them if it existed . But I assume it would.
I can also see the EPB and put it in Service mode to change the rear brakes.
TBH not sure Imwould want to fiddle with that!
In case it left them on or off permanently
I think I will leave that to my Indy lol.
Q. Out of interest can you interogate the Comand system and see faults or at least see ‘no faults’
Mine starts the routine and then bombs out.
I am not sure if mine is faulty (either the Comand or the MBII) as I have Harman Kardon Amplifier intermittant issues!
Its ripped out and being sent to a repairer.
Yesterday I went to my SLK in the garage and to my horror I had left the ignition key on position I. The battery was completely flat.
Ok I'll just recharge the battery. But where is it? Every other car I have had you lift the bonnet and there is the battery.Turn to google. Ah I see, hidden under that plastic thingy ! Grab the charger, now, which is possetive? Hmm, there it is large plus sign. Whack the leads on and switch on.Loud crack! What the....... That's not a plus sign you dumpling - That's a big plastic screw with with slots in it. Ooo crumbs I've connected the wrong polarity.Sh.. Its blown the fuse on the charger! Google it. Horror stories ECU blown up, electronics fried What have I done?
Let's have a butchers at the manual ( well isn't that what you do last?) " Never charge the battery when its connected inside the car" OOOh no! Now, I am a retired electrical engineer and I know when you disconnect an inductive load a wicked transient is generated enough to fry any sensitive electronic device.
So now I bolted the gate when horse was gone, replaced the charger fuse, whipped the leads off, reconnected the charger correctly and turned in for a very restless night. But this is a story with a happy ending. The car fired up immediately and a quick spin around the village assured me that I was a very lucky blighter.
^ Very lucky indeed not to have caused damage to the car.
I always connect the +tive and -tive terminals and double check they are correct before switching on the charger.
So easy to make a mistake, especially in poor light.
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