S211 steering 'groan'.

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Corned

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If your Poynton trip is in the near future, call in and see me and we can do it together.

After that, we can have a go at changing the belt. XXX ;)

Badum, tsch! :lol:

I have found a tech sheet about it on Benzworld and it mentions having to remove the bonnet slam panel and fan cowl - stuff like that, which would make it a right PITA to do, but I have a feeling that is not necessary.

I may take up your offer, matey, although if it's the same to you, I would perhaps prefer to leave it to just the second bit? ;) :D
 
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Badum, tsch! :lol:

I have found a tech sheet about it on Benzworld and it mentions having to remove the bonnet slam panel and fan cowl - stuff like that, which would make it a right PITA to do, but I have a feeling that is not necessary.

I may take up your offer, matey, although if it's the same to you, I would perhaps prefer to leave it to just the second bit? ;) :D

If similar to the 210 I.6 (and for that matter the OM611 in the Sprinter) it's not that difficult. Fan cowl is held on by clips only and slides off. If we need to remove the fan I have a ratchet that is 7mm thick that I made an extension handle for. I'd also consider replacing the idler pulley. IIRC they are around £15 and easy to swap. That was what failed on my Sprinter and shredded the belt. Driving that (luckily only 10 miles) back home without power steering was a herculean task. Mini-roundabouts took 3-4 manouvres. :lol:
 

_Taz_

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just another theory, does the serpentine belt run the PS pump ?

it may just be that the old belt isn't gripping the drive pulley, hence the judder, had this on many other old auto's ?

Could just be that, or a failing pump as one of the others put it ! :shock:
 
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Hi Taz. See the first couple of posts on this thread! ;)
 
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I haven't actually done anything about this yet.

However I am pretty well convinced that is it a joint or bush problem now, not anything relating to the PAS pump or drivebelt. The drivebelt still needs doing though - I'm not going to forget about that.

The car is perfect when starting from cold (and stationary). After a run it makes the most awful creaking noise when the steering is applied, whether the car is moving or not. It only happens around the straight-ahead position. When moving from side to side on full lock it is silent. Interestingly, after a much longer run, it quietens down again.

I did lift the front of the car the other day to investigate. I stood the car on stands under the bottom arms (directly under the strut bottom mounts) and made sure the wheels were well clear of the floor and the stands. The noise was very apparent but not from the course I was expecting. It was the stand under the o/s which was making all the noise! As I moved the steering wheel, the stand was being made to move slightly by the bottom arm. Surely that can't be right? There should be no lateral or longitudinal movement in the bottom arm, should there? The n/s arm and stand were steady as a rock. I videoed it, but can't attach the file to this post unfortunately.

My suspicion then, is that amb67 and Pathfinder are probably on the money and it's the ball joint under the hub bearer assembly which is shot, but I haven't had that confirmed yet.
 

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I know my C270 wasn't the same as your car corned, but I read up on how to do a belt change and it too said to remove slam panel / cowl etc..
In the end I chickened out and went to a local guy whos son "had a method"..
He renewed the belt without removing anything and all from above.. I suggested he would make a good gynaecologist !!
I have no idea how on earth he managed it and he only charged £20..
Photo shows how tight a space he had to work in..

I only mention this because sometimes its just not worth the struggle if you have a local guy with "Knowledge"..

If you are ever around this area I will show you the place (established 1895)
 

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Corned

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I suggested he would make a good gynaecologist !!

I'm actually a retired gynaecologist, but I do take on the odd case here and there because I like to keep my hand in.

In other news, I reckon the 211 has more space (even with the 6-cylinder engine) between the cowl and the pulleys than in your photo - but not by much.

I understand the only issue is having a torx wrench thin enough to slot down between the two in order to clacken off the tensioner. There is plenty of room to manipulate the belt itself, I would say.
 

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I've changed and had the belt off my OM648 engine in a W220 many times.

There maybe more room in the s-class but it is a small gap.

I use the 17mm multi point box nut to move the tensioner. I find it easier.

The hardest part is rooting the cable around the pulleys on refitting. Normally I get it totally wrong trying to use memory:p
 
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There should be no great strength required to slip the belt on with the aid of the tensioner. If the belt is hard to get on, you've got it wrong and IIRC it's possible to get the water pump spinning the wrong way!
 

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Corned, have you managed to get the car up on a ramp and get it checked out? Most garages will do a free diagnostic on the steering and suspension in the hope that you will tell them to proceed with a fix.

You can do this and leave.
 
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It's booked it with my favourite indie next week, but if yesterday was anything to go by, the problem has either magicacally fixed itself, or broken completely, as there were no untoward noises or strange feelings at all, all day.

I'll let you know how it goes.
 

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Groan

You will more than likely find the Groan you are experiencing is a lower ball joint starting to fail, this is the first sign,next you will hear a knocking noise on rough surfaces. Hope this helps:cool:
 

V6Matty

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You will more than likely find the Groan you are experiencing is a lower ball joint starting to fail, this is the first sign,next you will hear a knocking noise on rough surfaces. Hope this helps:cool:

OK well since i had the coils replaced on my car it has started the knocking and from what i recall it's not had the groan either but does somethings still feel odd.

Will be interesting to see what Corned finds at the Indy's.

Any ideas on cost to replace the lower ball joint?
 
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Any ideas on cost to replace the lower ball joint?

I'll probably find out tomorrow!

P.S. The car has been quiet as a mouse the last few days until yesterday afternoon, when the creaking started again. I'll be glad when tomorrow is over, but I bet my wallet won't.
 
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V6Matty

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I'll probably find out tomorrow!

P.S. The car has been quiet as a mouse the last few days until yesterday afternoon, when the creaking started again. I'll be glad when tomorrow is over, but I bet my wallet won't.

lol its just happy its going to see its friend the Indy again and know you will be pouring some more money into her :)
 
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It's an 'it' - not a 'her'...

;)
 

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Could be top mounts on your struts if it's a rubbery creaking. You'd feel that through the wheel as well. Just a thought.
 

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The top mounts also knock when worrn.
 

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knowing my luck it will be both top and bottom that have gone then :(
 

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You could jack the car up, undo the nuts in the engine bay so it drops an inch and spray a ton of lube around the top cap from above and rubber underneath.

If they are slotted though you'll have to mark them or it will mess the camber up.

If it's a worn or dry top mount it should shut it up temporarily and then you will know.

Just make sure you don't get it dripping down all over the brakes, the mount should stop any excess.
 
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