Seized Pins?

[davidsw]

I had problems with the rear pins on my CLK they were smaller than the front. I used a very short punch (1" long) could give it a good clout without it bending. Once the pin had lost it's grip used a longer punch to tap through.

 

[television]

Having just fitted new pads to my CL, again the pins were very tight, a perfect size punch and a 2lb hammer and they were free, I had sprayed the pin to enable it to pass out easily.

Using a too small punch and a toffy hammer you just end up damaging the end of the pin and damage the hole. A little punch just hurts your fingers, with the correct size punch (the one I made by grinding down a large one) just one blow freed them off.

 

[Pounder]

Please could anyone tell me the correct size punch to order to get these pins out? Thank you.

 

[LostKiwi]

Please could anyone tell me the correct size punch to order to get these pins out? Thank you.

Measure the pin with Vernier calipers. Then select a punch slightly smaller.

 

[Wighty]

Measure the pin with Vernier calipers. Then select a punch slightly smaller.

Reading this old thread , I never new Malcom had a CL500 .

 

[Cole@MBS]

Be

Reading this old thread , I never new Malcom had a CL500 .

I believe Toby owns it on here, see he posted about the mirror the other day!

 

[LostKiwi]

Reading this old thread , I never new Malcom had a CL500 .

He had a 216 when he died plus the 230 we bought from him.
Prior to that he had a number of MBs including another 230 John Laidlaw bought and a CL420 @toby1 on here currently has.

 

[Cole@MBS]

Forgot he had the 216, did a lot of work on that as well!

 

[Blobcat]

Forgot he had the 216, did a lot of work on that as well!

And a R129 SL320 before the R230 SL500

 

[toby1]

What happened to his 216? Does a forum member have it?

 

[LostKiwi]

What happened to his 216? Does a forum member have it?

His son Andy has it.

 

[Pounder]

Measure the pin with Vernier calipers. Then select a punch slightly smaller.

Thank you sorted the right size they were a bugger to get out now replaced with new pins.

 

[joderest]

I have a ground down punch, the tip is about 1/2 inch long, never fails to get the buggers moving with a good thump from hammer.

 

[brandwooddixon]

If you don't have the correct sized punch then cut the pin in two, say in line with the brake disc, then use a pair of mole grips or similar on the pin body to work it loose. I've found that this prevents you from damaging the alloy calliper due to the punch slipping when you hit it.

 

[Bay Leaf]

Regular maintenance is the key here. Brake pads can last a long time for low use / mileage, and most garages including main agents check the pads especially the fronts without removing the wheels. I always take all the wheels off once a year when servicing and check the pins etc. And when fitting new pads remove and lubricate the pins. I do appreciate though that not everyone can do this work themselves so are at the mercy of garages. WD 40 isn't really a penetrating oil. Diesel fuel, or I have read that white vinegar can free things off .

 

[daibevan]

A new set of pins & shims is so cheap I always just replace them when I change the pads.

 

[DREAMER NO2]

Why use WD40 it is not made for this sort of job its only a water repelant ,You need a good penetrating oil , and a hammer and the right size drift .If brakes pins were fitted with a smear of oil to start with ,then this would never happen .Now i get --yoi dont put lub on the pins -i do,, and my pins dont corrode . I dont mean to soak them , just a drop of oil and wipe it off this will stop any rust or corrosion .Not many garages will use grease or oil on any nut or bolt assembly,, if they did, then they would be out of a job removing them for the owners. I am a big believer of oil and grease even on wheel bolts .

 

[Botus]

took me 3 hours to get the pads out on one side of a 55k mile car.... nice design (only one hour was moving the pins - almost hitting those stupid pins till the car had done two laps of the world - before they moved a mm - the brake piston well that was much easier, don't bother trying, just buy new calipers )

 

[Pounder]

Regular maintenance is the key here. Brake pads can last a long time for low use / mileage, and most garages including main agents check the pads especially the fronts without removing the wheels. I always take all the wheels off once a year when servicing and check the pins etc. And when fitting new pads remove and lubricate the pins. I do appreciate though that not everyone can do this work themselves so are at the mercy of garages. WD 40 isn't really a penetrating oil. Diesel fuel, or I have read that white vinegar can free things off .

That's true and I'll be keeping on top of them now made going forwards.

 

[Pounder]

Why use WD40 it is not made for this sort of job its only a water repelant ,You need a good penetrating oil , and a hammer and the right size drift .If brakes pins were fitted with a smear of oil to start with ,then this would never happen .Now i get --yoi dont put lub on the pins -i do,, and my pins dont corrode . I dont mean to soak them , just a drop of oil and wipe it off this will stop any rust or corrosion .Not many garages will use grease or oil on any nut or bolt assembly,, if they did, then they would be out of a job removing them for the owners. I am a big believer of oil and grease even on wheel bolts .

I now swear by Plus Gas it hasn't failed in unlocking a nasty corroded nut or bolt yet where I used to spend hours trying with WD40! I've also started using copper slip on freshly done up fastenings .