Side door doesn't know it is closed and doesn't lock

[Gehngus]

Hi guys n girls.
Hoping you might be able to assist.
I have a vito camper conversion 2010 medium body hi top model RWD with vito engine.
Previously a dpd van so is fitted with auto locks on the side and rear doors. They lock as soon as the door shuts.
It recently decided not to lock the side door and a light on the dash says the door is open. It is shutting fine. I think (after checking the forum) it may be the pins. I have cleaned them and the plate.
Is there a way to check these

Also. But maybe just a coincidence. The other side door has started to bounce open when I close it. I have to fiddle with the inside button before it will close?

I wondered if these are related?

Many thanks in advance

 

[M80]

When you say auto locks for the side doors, is this a added locks or is it a software adaptation that causes the factory locks to auto lock?
If added locks I would guess that would confuse Star diagnostics some.

Star (and other diagnostic kit, but not so well) should see the state of locks, but if the dash says unlocked then Star would only agree with it.

It could be the side plates and pins not connecting.
They can be swapped n/s to o/s, so that the pins then contact on a new area of the plate.
An easy job but be sure to tie a line to the cabling before to unplugging, if the connector drops down the B pillar you've a bitch of a job on.
Unless the plates have been scoured clean and the protective surface destroyed that would eliminate the pins and plates.

Otherwise I would suggest the locking mechanism within the doors to be suspect.
I don't believe these to be overly expensive but the job of replacing them isn't so easy.

Adjusting the doors to cause the locks to engage better is possible, but when you start that you'll be trying and trying again for ever more in my experience. If they were working fine and there has been no trauma to the doors I would avoid that route.
A push at the back of the door, as they close, can't do any harm. This is where the lock engages the U hasp.

Avoid WD40 as a remedy. You can soak the micro switches and they won't be happy after that.

 

[Gehngus]

Many thanks for the reply.
The auto lock feature was added by dpd so you need a keyfob disc to unlock a door. The controllers for these are under the middle seat.
I think they override the mechanism but not the door state.
Is there a way to connect 2 pins to see if the light goes off (I'm assuming a contact needs to made between pins to close a circuit. Or is it not so simple?)

 

[Gehngus]

OK. The unlocked side is locking now.
When I was about to take the plates off I noticed the plastic above each plate looked scuffed.
The pins were missing the plates. The door was too high.
Adjusted the door height and now it auto locks again.
So. I Just need to sort the other side out now. It still bounces open unless I fiddle with the latch first.
I'm hoping that doesn't mean door off. I cant remove the panel without removing the kitchen units

 

[M80]

The lock mechanism is within the door, toward the rear where the lock engages the U hasp.

Behind the inside panel would be the motor and control electronics if you had electric doors. That would push / pull the wire rope that would open / close the door.

The lock mechanism has a 2 stage locking. If you try with a round bar (like a Phillips screwdriver) you can feel the 2 clicks that operate micro switches. (Be sure to open on the handle prior to closing the door.

I've seen one of the micro switches fail and couldn't source a replacement, so the SAM / controls didn't see it as closed.
It is possibly down to adjustment 'again,' but as the only way to adjust is with the door open it is trial and error. Adjusting the Hasp outward is easy.

I can provide some detail on pin designation, from a Viano with electric doors.
I have the iCarsoft V2 and that may provide door status, I'm pretty sure it does but I'll check. The problem is it can only agree with what the dash is telling you.

 

[Gehngus]

Thanks M80.
The unlock able door locks now. Door had raised some how? So the pins did not align correctly. Dash ligjt has now gone off.
I still have a problem with the other door not catching.
It closes fine. Smoothly. But it seems the latch doesn't catch at the back.
This could just be adjustment or possibly something has dropped off?
If I put a Philips in. Flick it shut. Press the door open button to flock it open. It then shuts properly. Although I might have to do this a few times.
Have been searching threads and this seems to be the case for a few people but remedies don't appear to be included.
Im reluctant to remove the door at this time of year. Required to get the panel off as I have converted this vito into a camper. All bespoke and hand made by myself. So I know how hard it would be to get it all out again lol. But I'm playing with the idea of a modification to the kitchen that will make it possible to 'not " take the door off.

 

[M80]

Your descriptions are a bit ambiguous.
Do you have electric doors that can open / close from the dash 'buttons'? I'm guessing yes as you describe it saying it is still open (that being an LED on the buttons), but the dash (between clocks) can do this when you start to move off, so me unsure.

There is no need to remove the inner panel in the estate area to remove the door. But I'm trying to remember if it is necessary to remove the door to get to the lock mechanism, it was a few years ago for me.
I am thinking that the door card can come off with doo in situ, it being a flippin' big clumsy item that is preferable.

I've checked my maintenance record and nowhere have I written that I removed side door/s, and I don't have memory of that either. That suggests that access to the lock mechanism can be by removal of the door card.

I'll see if I can convert my xl to a format that can be downloaded to here, that shows the pin designation. More importantly I believe you may be able to identify high résistance across the micro switch I've mentioned with the screwdriver having 'locked it'

 

[Gehngus]

The driver passanger doors open/close via dash and via remote.
The rear and sliding doors require a keyfob to be applied to a disc manually to unlock. Each door unlocks individually
You then have 4 seconds to open before they re lock. When closed the doors lock automatically.
The van was used to carry high value items so this security was added.
All doors are still connected to the light on the dash display (between the dials).
I had considered reconecting the original wiring but with carrying tools ect. Liked the idea of not having everything unlock at once. Plus forgetting to lock doors is one of my bad habits so I don't have to worry about this.
It all seems to be working again now the door has been adjusted.
I would still need to sort the bouncing door out. This does lock ponce it is closed. But it doesn't like to close or latch on.
Hope this is clearer than I think it is. ha ha.

 

[M80]

So not electrically open and closing. You unlock, pull the handle and haul the door to open.

I've been taking continuity reading of the pins in all 3 states, open, 1st latch and 2nd latch. I've ignored child lock on / off.
I imagine yours should be the same set up within the doors.
That would give you chance to compare to correctly operating doors, and see if yours is /are different. To my mind that would indicate a faulty locking mechanism, or not.

 

[Kev555]

My van had auto locks too where it locked as soon as you closed the door. the control box was between the seats. the fuse for it was in the battery compartment area. Pulled the fuse on power supply going to the control box and no more autolock. Van resorted to normal factory locking mode.

 

[M80]

Hopefully the attached will make sense.

Surprisingly the n/s & o/s don't match each other, even if you turn the pins upside down on one as I see it.

The 'short' circuit, and 'open' circuit are self explanatory, in that short to my mind will be across one of the micro switches in a closed state.

The ohm readings can vary up to 2 ohms, for example the readings this morning (while confirming last eves results) did vary from last eve. Strange as I see the 5.5 ohm / 6 ohm to be across the lock / unlock solenoids.
I couldn't say what the 3 and 3.5 ohm readings will be across.

To my mind what is important to you is if your door/s are seeing the short across the micro switch/es as mine do.

 

[Gehngus]

Wow!
This is really useful.
Thank you

 

[Gehngus]

Great!
All doors are now working spot on.

Thanks one and all.

Now to address these other little niggles lol