Sl 230 pse pump

[jareddavis]

I have been reading a few threads and realise if I had paid more attention I might be in this mess.

after a winter of frost on the inside of the car and recently condensation, i concluded the last time it must be down to lennaving a wet jacket in the boot. How wrong i was> seeing a lot damp in the boot today I drove to work read the forums and decided to strip the boot and check the PSE pump for water ingress. the 10 minute journey home was interupted by a pop and on investigation water has shorted the circuit board and the boot smells of burnt plastic!

I guess my ony option is a new PSE? I keep hearing costs are £1000+ but looks like an easy replace if I can get the spare part. Does anyone have any advice, whether i canjust buy a new circuit board or if i can retrofit any other mercedes pump that might be more common, or what i should be paying for just the part?

I am tempted to hang fire and monitor ebay just in case if it is a simple replace job but I read about having to get it re programmed etc.

Or does anyone know what a dealerfit or independant fit price should be?
Cheers
Jared

 

[television]

The cost is about £800 they could be plug and play unless you have comfort seats. There are no spare parts for these pumps

It may be possible to repair it, I have fixed a few. I do not charge for looking at them.

You could try http://www.mercedes-benz-parts.co.uk/

I have started on the DIY mod to stop water from going into the boot on the 230 and it will be up within days

 

[jareddavis]

thanks television thought i could rely on you for quick reponse! if i was anywhere near the west country i would pop down but price ofpetrol these days means it would be cheaper to buy a new one! The circuit board has burnt out, the pump is in tact externally and wires fine goin into it. could do with a local repairer but think i will just bite the bullet.
Cheers
Jared

 

[television]

I will buy the motor from you if all intact and it should be

 

[jareddavis]

Thanks Malcolm,
Am going to take it out tonite and inspect the board to see if its repairable by an expert but in the meantime booked in with Merc Huddersfield job is around £850 fitted which wasn't much more than the supply part. If by magic my dad thinks he can repair the circuit board I will post comment and picture but likely that I will have a pump and parts going spare! What's the going rate for one of these, all helps to offset the price... sure you can turn a nice profit if its an easy fix.
pm me if you want or I will update Friday am.
Cheers
Jared

 

[jareddavis]

In addition to my last post, I have just been quoted a delivered price of £670 from inchape which seems good value to me.

One question - when I removed the pump last night, the air valves attached to the case don't look like they should move but don't want to force anything. Should I just be carefully pulling the circuit board section out from the case or is there a screw I should remove, for example the 3 located on the outside of the black case?

Cheers
Jared

 

[television]

PM sent to you

 

[jareddavis]

going on from my earlier thread does anyone know how to remove the pse pump? i have the roof pump free and the black case open with the pse in but my question should i be trying to remove the whole case or the pump and pcb from within it? in which case how do i deal with the air pipes connected to it?

 

[drmw]

the whole case (black box) - the pipes unclip in batches, not individually

 

[television]

Make a note of where the pipes go to on a piece of paper and number the pipes.

You have to open the claw clips on in the sockets in the PSE pump, the pipes come out with the grey connector on the end

A piece of tubing with a slot to go over the connector works well.

You can force open one of the claws and pull and hold the pipe to one side while you release the other claw

 

[jareddavis]

thanks for this but still a bit of a numpty i am.

I dont disconnect the pipes singularly which would be quite simple so as i have it, the plastic case is split in two with the electrical connections released and the pump (motor) free from the pcb bar the 2 wires. are the claw clips behind the pcb? is there any mileage in unscrewing the 3 star screws on the face of the case beside the pipe connectors?

Probably obvious but scared of damaging something or causing air pressure to drop.

Malcolm, what does the tubing to go over the connectors do, is it just to protect them once the unit is out?

Cheers!

 

[television]

Nothing to protect, just release the claws on the plastic box, I use a piece of tubing just to release the claws so that the connector comes out, some manage with a small screwdriver to force open the claws that hold the pipes in.

It would not help to take the motor apart as the tubes go into the valve blocks, and not just into the plastic case.

As before make a note where they go and number them

 

[jareddavis]

So the claws are accessed from the outside of the case as i look down at the pipes?

 

[jareddavis]

think i understand now but am i ok if a singe pipe comes out or should the light grey connector come out as well without disturbing the individual pipes

 

[television]

Yes correct, the ends of the pipes have end fitting, if you look close at the box you will see the three claws on each pipe clamp

 

[television]

think i understand now but am i ok if a singe pipe comes out or should the light grey connector come out as well without disturbing the individual pipes

Each pipe has the connector fixed on, yes my pipes have light grey end that are fixed to the pipes

 

[jareddavis]

think i need to go back to basics probably getting unnecessarily complicated!

I look down and see 2 light grey connecter blocks, one with 4 pipes going in and 2 spare slots, one with 3 going in and 3 spare. do i disconnect the pipes and then the connector block can be removed and reattached?
If they come out en bloc i presume it would not be necessary to number them as they would remain in the same place.

No problem in pulling clampback to release the pipe but confused as to the technicque to remove the block as well

sorry for all this and i do appreciate the help.

 

[television]

I think that I may be wrong on what I have said, as I have only disconnected individual pipes for testing, the whole block does come off with all of the pipes attached and you are left with just this pump as in the picture

 

[jareddavis]

i understand now thanks. one last question,if i have todisconnect the pipes,which make access much easier do you know whether this affects the system once the new unit is attached, or could it need calibrating or something

 

[television]

The PSE pump is a form of a SAM, that is it has a memory, and it may have to be programmed on STAR, more so if the car has comfort seats. All you can do is to plug the new one in and see if all of the locking works OK. the pump should never run for more than 5 seconds

There is nothing to worry about in removing the complete cover with all of the pipes in.

It would have been simpler if you had bought the new one first