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Sl R230 Rear window seal help needed....

Discussion in 'Bodywork, Tyres, Wheels & Trim' started by H1 NPW, Jun 12, 2019.

  1. H1 NPW

    H1 NPW Member

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    E Class 220d bluetec 2014
    I’ve just completed a 5,000 mile road trip around Europe in my 2007 SL350 and during the trip the boot nearly turned into a swimming pool... I’ve been quoted £500+ by my local independent MB specialist, without any guarantees of success, so turned to the forum for some advice... Having read several threads, I was on the verge of messaging a member called Television who seemed to know what he was talking about, but then realised that he sadly passed away a couple of years ago....
    So, are there any members who have a similar level of knowledge and attitude (ie the seals almost certainly don’t need replacing, just cleaning and properly re-sealing) who will be willing to help me do the job myself? Would be willing to travel to pretty much anywhere (I’m in Nottingham)
    Cheers
    Nigel
     
  2. Blobcat

    Blobcat Moderator

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    Hello and welcome

    Television put together a guide in our DIY section, please take a read as it can be a DIY job.
     
  3. ajlsl600

    ajlsl600 Senior Member

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    reccomend that ,i followed it ,it deffo works ,tho in my case i carried it out anyway,it was not leaking ,if as in my case you find no corrosion its real easy to do on a nice weekend, about a day if yr in no hurry. then lift yr pump into a ,in my case 5mm polystrene tile in a zip plastic freezer bag, if water ever did get in again ,the pump is safer.
     
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2019
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  4. Blobcat

    Blobcat Moderator

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  5. OP
    H1 NPW

    H1 NPW Member

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    Bobcat, many thanks for your super quick reply.
    Well, that’s a fantastic guide for anyone who is remotely competent at DIY, which unfortunately I’m most definitely not. I just wouldn’t feel confident in my own ability. Are there any members who’ve done it themselves, who would be willing to help me? As I say, happy to travel almost anywhere and indeed pay for the help.
    Cheers
    Nigel
     
  6. DREAMER NO2

    DREAMER NO2 Senior Member

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    Ask a auto window replacement company to remove it and re seal .Auto Glass are the people that i had to do my Volvo .
     
  7. peterws1957

    peterws1957 Senior Member

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    If it's the usual problem with SL's then I doubt whether a window replacement company would have a clue how to do the job. The window doesn't need removing, only the widow/boot seal which then has to be refitted as per Television's great DIY guide.
     
  8. peterws1957

    peterws1957 Senior Member

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    Incidentally, I would strongly recommend having a good luck at the pse and roof pump in the boot which can get totally knackered by the ingress of water.Pretty expensive to replace. Remove foam and dry out if wet and pray they continue to operate!
     
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  9. LostKiwi

    LostKiwi Senior Member

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    Excellent advice above.
     
  10. flowrider99

    flowrider99 Senior Member

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    As long as you can read and you follow the guide to the letter, using the sealant recommended, then you will be successful. Have faith :).
     
  11. McDonald

    McDonald Senior Member

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    One of the MB specialist garages would probably take it on. If mine suddenly needs attention, I won't want to tackle it myself. I'll ring MBS in that event and talk it through with them.

    Mine lives in the garage and only comes out when the weather makes a convertible irresistible so the problem may never arise - although in Britain the weather isn't guaranteed to last a whole journey.
     
  12. OP
    H1 NPW

    H1 NPW Member

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    Thanks for all your responses. I would agree it's not a job for a window replacement company. It needs to be someone who's done it before. Successfully!

    Fortunately, I managed to spot the leak as soon as it started and placed a large microfibre cloth underneath the part of the seal that's leaking - it's amazing just how much water the cloth can soak up and hold! No water found it's way into the spare wheel well and the pumps had already been bagged up as a precaution against any leaks.

    I'm on the verge of having the confidence to do this job myself - but not quite there yet!

    Unfortunately, I haven't got a garage, so with the appalling weather we're having at the moment, I'm emptying out a small plastic container every day that's catching the drips!

    Would still be interested in finding a member who was willing to help me with this.

    Cheers

    Nigel
     
  13. OP
    H1 NPW

    H1 NPW Member

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    To expand on why I'm not confident in doing it myself, despite Television's superb guide, the issues in my mind are:-

    1) How can I tell if the seals are so out of shape that they need replacing? I don't know what the correct shape is!

    2) How will I know if the metal lip is in good enough condition after cleaning - in terms of the level of corrosion?

    3) My previous track record/success rate on DIY jobs is not great!

    Cheers

    Nigel
     
  14. LostKiwi

    LostKiwi Senior Member

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    To answer your questions...
    1. It will be obvious. The seal will look distorted and damaged.
    2. Again if it's not rusted away it's fine.

    Give it a go.
     
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  15. John Laidlaw

    John Laidlaw Senior Member

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    I was lucky in that my SL had been done already by Malcolm before I bought it. Think at least it would help the OP to see an ‘after’ car if anyone is near enough to him, then it might take the fear factor away...
     
  16. peterws1957

    peterws1957 Senior Member

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    Forgot to mention Nigel, the price from your indie probably allows for new seals, but if not fitted with a belt and braces approach , this may not solve the problem. If you read and reread the DIY guide, take it carefully and slowly, and follow it to the letter, there's no reason why you shouldn't solve the problem for £20 or less. If you can provide some close up shots of the seal, people on here should be able to give you an idea as to whether the seal looks ok.
     
  17. OP
    H1 NPW

    H1 NPW Member

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    Yes, the price included a seal for the rear screen (but not the C pillars...)
    They also inspected the metal strip (away from my mince pies) and said it needed rubbing down and re-painting, which I would feel reasonably confident in doing myself....
     
  18. OP
    H1 NPW

    H1 NPW Member

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    I think disaster may have struck....
    After a few days of emptying out the plastic container that was catching all the rainwater dripping into the boot that we've been suffering the last few days, I went to empty out the plastic container this evening and.....nothing.... neither of the remote control keys will open the car.... it's totally dead... I know it's not the keys as I replaced both their batteries before I did my 5,000 mile trip and the red lights are flashing on the keys. So I'm thinking that water has got in and bu**ered the central locking pump, although I'm 95% sure it hasn't....The question is - how do I gain access to the car/boot????
     
  19. Blobcat

    Blobcat Moderator

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    Use the metal key - you might need to get some lubricant into the lock if you haven't used it in awhile (ever)
     
  20. LostKiwi

    LostKiwi Senior Member

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    Open the drivers door using the metal key. Start the engine. Let it run 3 or 4 minutes then try the boot switch on the drivers door. If you're lucky it's only the consumer battery gone flat.
     

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