SL500 R230 - Charging consumer AUX battery with boot stuck locked

SH0X

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Hello guys

I have searched for days on end and read so many threads but cannot find an answer to a small question I have which potentially could solve a variety of SL bootlid/PSE/ Consumer battery issues...

My fuel is low and the central locking is stuck in lock position for the fuel flap etc

Is there a terminal or point that runs into the car from the consumer / auxillary aux battery (in the boot) that I can intercept the live wire so that I can charge it?

I have had my fuel flap/glove box/ arm rest/cubbys not opening due to low power on the boot battery and after I took a long drive or charged the front battery via a car charger it worked. Also removal and refitting the 20 amp fuese behind the drivers seat in the cubby also worked

I think if we can identify this wire it would avoid anybody getting locked out of their boot or becoming stuck with fuel flap not opening when you are low on fuel

** Reffering to a thread made by Bikerng , I belive his username was (regarding charging both batteries together), he refers to an unused relay in the front fusebox infront of drivers side which provides power to the rear, can anyone confirm which one exactly?


Thanks in advance for any input
 
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drmw

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Hello guys

I have searched for days on end and read so many threads but cannot find an answer to a small question I have which potentially could solve a variety of SL bootlid/PSE/ Consumer battery issues...

My fuel is low and the central locking is stuck in lock position for the fuel flap etc

Is there a terminal or point that runs into the car from the consumer / auxillary aux battery (in the boot) that I can intercept the live wire so that I can charge it?

I have had my fuel flap/glove box/ arm rest/cubbys not opening due to low power on the boot battery and after I took a long drive or charged the front battery via a car charger it worked. Also removal and refitting the 20 amp fuese behind the drivers seat in the cubby also worked

I think if we can identify this wire it would avoid anybody getting locked out of their boot or becoming stuck with fuel flap not opening when you are low on fuel

** Reffering to a thread made by Bikerng , I belive his username was (regarding charging both batteries together), he refers to an unused relay in the front fusebox infront of drivers side which provides power to the rear, can anyone confirm which one exactly?


Thanks in advance for any input

I can't answer the direct question, but if removal / refit of the PSE fuse started it working, it's more likely (much) to be a problem with the PSE pump itself - if resetting starts it working, it points to the pump having shut off for self preservation purposes.

Did you have "consumers offline" error message when talking it for the drive got it working again?

It would be worth pulling/replacing the fuse for the PSE - just move the driver's seat forward & pull off the vertical panel under the rear storage lid (unclip from the top) which will give you access to the fuses
 
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television

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The PSE pump fuse, yellow 20 amp should be all time live, take out the fuse, and you will need a length of wire of the same thickness as the blade on the fuse, that you can push into the bottom of the fuse holder into the fuse connection, join the charger plus wire to this and the battery should charge.
 
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SH0X

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Thank you both for the replies

My boot lock diaphragm has a leak causing the pump to over run and hiss on opening the boot for 10 secs. Ive lost the soft close feature I once had. Its on my list to follow your epoxy DIY fix (there are a few things to put right on the car)

Thanks for the info on the fuse and how it works - that sounds like something I could tackle if I can find some wire to use
 
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SH0X

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The PSE pump fuse, yellow 20 amp should be all time live, take out the fuse, and you will need a length of wire of the same thickness as the blade on the fuse, that you can push into the bottom of the fuse holder into the fuse connection, join the charger plus wire to this and the battery should charge.


I couldn't edit my reply but I have followed this by pulling both legs of the fuse out and then connecting my trickle charger's positive red clamp to the fuse legs whilst inserted into the fusebox and the black to a grounded stud in the cubby and trickle charging shows its charging! Hopefully this works..

Failing this do you think I would be OK to join my other cars battery or the cars front battery to this fuse position via jump leads?

Thanks for the tip !
 
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drmw

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again, no idea on that, but what is convincing you it's the consumer battery? Do you get consumers offline message?
 
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SH0X

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again, no idea on that, but what is convincing you it's the consumer battery? Do you get consumers offline message?

Hi after reading almost every forum thread I could find Im sure its the battery as I did get the consumers offline often (dont use the car alot at the moment), fuel flap/glove etc not opening, no remote central locking working etc but have been lucky before as car charged itself up or I have been able to get into the boot via charging the front battery which allowed me to get power to the boot (I did read they were connected)

but right now nothing seems to be working. Maybe my charger is playing up Im not sure but lets see how the above attempt goes?
 

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I suspect there are two issues - the consumer battery seems indeed to be low so what you are doing right now is useful, but if the battery was low, pulling the PSE fuse & resetting isn't likely to fool the PSE that the battery is now ok.

I could be wrong for sure but as you mentioned a leak in the soft close, the fuse issue could simply be resetting the shut down PSE - or indeed, the PSE could be totalled - there is one variable too many here !

Persevere - I hope you are on the right track ;)

I presume you've tried the metal key to get into the boot & it didn't work - just to make sure (apologies f this sounds patronising), you put the key in the slot, turn it nearly 1/4 turn (from memory) clockwise as you look down on the top of the boot lid & while holding it in that position, pull the bootlid release handle.

There is a way to open the fuel flap once in the boot - can't remember exactly how, but search here & you'll find it

ps - if you've pulled the fuse out a bit to charge, you may not have a complete circuit, hence nothing working
 
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television

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If the rear battery was dead flat it can take many hours to charge it, and of coarse you cannot operate the locking with the fuse out, once the battery has got something in it, it should be able to run the locking once or twice.

Putting the charger on the front battery does nothing for the rear one. Yes there is a live fuse in the front box,but without a long search it would take too long to find, and time I did not have earlier on.

Re the boot key blade turning anti clock opens it completely without using the handle.
 

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If you can get enough charge into the battery to operate the PSE pump, I would do the following-
Open the lid on the storage box behind the drivers seat and leave it open until the car is 100% reliable.
Open the fuel flap and leave it open until you've filled up.
Open the boot and get the mechanical key working so you can always get to the battery and PSE pump. The mechanical key on mine operates the same as DRMWs ie turn key 1/4 turn and pull up the boot release handle.

The consumers battery should stay sufficiently charged for around 2 weeks if you're not using the car, so once you've got everything sorted either leave the car on a trickle charger or charge it up every few weeks, but make sure the mechanical key is working and check it does the drivers door too!
 
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Great info and advice there guys.

Unfortunately I have not been able to unlock the boot via blade having tried all turns, vibration from my beard trimmer on the key, hitting the boot sharply to engage pins but not tried plus gas just yet. The blade turns only if I use pliers to aid me.

I will indeed be leaving cubby and flap open until central locking is sorted as do not want to be in this position again. I had this happen before twice but always got it working via trickle charger on the front battery strangely or perhaps it was when I pulled and refit the fuse..

I have about 5 pounds of fuel left I am wondering if it's worth running the car to hope for the aux batter to charge however I have not had much luck the last time I tried that.

When I get into this boot I will as you say fix my manual boot unlocking and or run a positive wire from the aux battery into the fuse box cubby so that we can charge it if this happens again. I will look into a replacement battery should the car indicate I have finished this one. I also plan to do the epoxy fix.

Update on charging the Pse via the fuse terminals unfortunately it stayed on for over 12 hours and no change in the trickle status or power to the aux functions. The chargers clamp joined the two terminal legs together so hopefully there was some sort of bridged connection there. Refitting the 20 a fuse has shown to difference.

I am hoping my charger is doing its job.
A little stumped now as to my next step..

I did notice a red thick wire in the cubby fuse box when pulled gave a roof warning message on the dash but refitted immediately and it went off. I was looking for a live to the aux battety

Thanks for the help and tips
 
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SH0X

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SH0X,

The procedure I wrote up in the thread below(post 9) will allow you to open the roof (and therefore boot) even with the PSE pump non-functional.
Then you can charge your battery.
Might you be able to try this?

http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/showthread.php?p=978124#post978124

David Arnott - You Sir are a legend! ;)

I worked out the where the roof module was from google images/ebay and tried the first plug top left as you said and cut the two violet/orange and yellow/white wires and replugged to find my roof was able to lower as per your post in 2013!

I am trickle charging the Aux/consumer battery as I type this reply (in hope of getting my fuel flap open to fill up to be able to use my car!

I will take some pictures when I next work on the car in daylight to hopefully clarify this for any other members in a similar situation.

You honestly have saved me a heap of bother. Im not sure what my next option was going to be.

Thank you once again & thank you to everyone that took the time to help me and give suggestions as to how to tackle this issue. Here is a picture of what you guys have helped me achieve in a day (been tackling this for a week on my own)

24mdjbp.jpg
 
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television

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Philedge

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SH0X,

The procedure I wrote up in the thread below(post 9) will allow you to open the roof (and therefore boot) even with the PSE pump non-functional.
Then you can charge your battery.
Might you be able to try this?

http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/showthread.php?p=978124#post978124

Handy tip that and one for the archives.

Does the removal of the two wires kid the roof control module that the conveinience battery is OK? If it signals something else then it suggests the OPs battery is adequately charged or the roof would be disabled? In this case the OP needs to be looking at the PSE pump rather than the battery/charging?
 
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SH0X

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Please ask for this good fix to go in the DIY, its priceless.

I was thinking exactly the same thing! Sticky please:!:

Handy tip that and one for the archives.

Does the removal of the two wires kid the roof control module that the conveinience battery is OK? If it signals something else then it suggests the OPs battery is adequately charged or the roof would be disabled? In this case the OP needs to be looking at the PSE pump rather than the battery/charging?

I believe it may be over riding the boot seperator switch?
 
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television

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If the rear battery was OK the car would still start up
 

David Arnott

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I was thinking exactly the same thing! Sticky please:!:



I believe it may be over riding the boot seperator switch?



SH0X,
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]The disconnection of these wires isolates the following:-[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]S118/ 1&2 Left and right Right tubular frame locked limit switch[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]S69/2&3 Vario-roof "locked" limit switch (left and right rotary tumbler) [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]In plain English(!) what this means is that the roof control module thinks the roof is partially open, so will allow it to open or close further (not sure if that was plain!)[/FONT]
 
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SH0X

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Ah ok, makes sense!

So these wires will need to be re-joined before continuing to use the car?
 

David Arnott

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Ah ok, makes sense!

So these wires will need to be re-joined before continuing to use the car?


Yes, indeed.
If you need any further advice on the PSE etc. just ask.
Good to see you are making progress.
 

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