SL55 (R230) - ABC Visit Workshop

[C A R S E]

Is the rear ABC valve block on an SL55 the same as a SL500? Mine is an SL55 Any idea on the part number?


I came across this forum where someone had the exact same error which was resolved by getting the valve block repaired, unfortunately when PHILEDGE asked where he got it repaired there was no reply
http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/s...2003+mercedes+sl500+abc+bouncing+issue&page=4

 

[Philedge]

You could try sending a PM to navtec??

 

[television]

Re the part numbers for the valve block the VIN number is required to be certain, once one knows the number of yours, it can be checked against others.

 

[C A R S E]

Update:

STAR output:
C1526-004 - Fault in hydraulic circuit at rear left suspension strut

Possible cause and remedy:
-Inspect ABC for leaks.

-Mechanical fault of component Y36/2 (ABC rear axle valve unit)
-Component 'Y36/2y1 (Left rear suspension strut control valve)' sticks.

-Mechanical fault of component Left rear suspension strut.
-Component 'Left rear suspension strut' sticks.

End of Test.

I finally got round to removing the ABC valve block last week where I swapped the control valves round (as advised) to see if the error I would getting switched sides, to roll out the valve block.

Just got the car Serviced today at Mercedes where they agreed to clear the errors yesterday before it went in and the only error that was logged today was the same as I was getting before (as above).

I have now been told by two main dealers and two indie garages that the issue is the strut so I think I will get it replaced, however not by Mercedes as they wanted £1300.


Any suggestions the best place to purchase a New or Used strut?
Any guidance on fitting?
Where can I find the part number?

 

[AMGeed]

I think this was the place recommended for replacement ABC struts

http://www.air-suspension-shop.com/...hydraulic-shock-absorber-rear-left-2303205513

 

[television]

It is dead easy to change, the bottom bolt and the top and the hydraulic quick release nut.

 

[C A R S E]

I think this was the place recommended for replacement ABC struts

http://www.air-suspension-shop.com/...hydraulic-shock-absorber-rear-left-2303205513

Thanks AMGeed,

Prices look good.....SL55 AMG strut is not available until June http://www.air-suspension-shop.com/...aulic-shock-absorber-AMG-rear-left-2303205313

Any other suggestions where I could check?

 

[C A R S E]

Any other suggestions were I could purchase a new or reconditioned ABC strut for my SL?

 

[Philedge]

The fault code you've given has two possible causes listed with it- a sticking valve or a sticking strut, as you've posted. AFAIK this fault is generated when the ECU tells the strut to move and it doesn't move or doesn't move quickly enough. The ECU knows if the strut has moved by monitoring the strut position sensor.

You've done a rodeo test which runs the struts and position sensors to their limits and gives the strut a good thrashing so any faults with the strut or its sensor are likely to show up on a rodeo test, but they didn't. That's not a conclusive test but its still a good test. What it might not pick up is intermittent faults anywhere between the ECU output signal to operate the suspension and the ECU input signal detecting strut movement.

If you have money to throw at a new strut then that may be the quickest way to prove or disprove the strut being at fault. If you don't have the spare cash to throw around it might be worth checking all the connections from the ECU output back to the input. Those would be-
ECU connector- Malcolm has had problems here.
Valve connector and any intermediate wiring connections.
Strut sensor connector on top of the strut and any intermediate wiring connections- another member on here has replaced a strut only to find it was a bad connection on or around the connector!!!

If you want to go the strut replacement route try Arnott Europe for remanufactured struts

 

[drmw]

The fault code you've given has two possible causes listed with it- a sticking valve or a sticking strut, as you've posted. AFAIK this fault is generated when the ECU tells the strut to move and it doesn't move or doesn't move quickly enough. The ECU knows if the strut has moved by monitoring the strut position sensor.

You've done a rodeo test which runs the struts and position sensors to their limits and gives the strut a good thrashing so any faults with the strut or its sensor are likely to show up on a rodeo test, but they didn't. That's not a conclusive test but its still a good test. What it might not pick up is intermittent faults anywhere between the ECU output signal to operate the suspension and the ECU input signal detecting strut movement.

If you have money to throw at a new strut then that may be the quickest way to prove or disprove the strut being at fault. If you don't have the spare cash to throw around it might be worth checking all the connections from the ECU output back to the input. Those would be-
ECU connector- Malcolm has had problems here.
Valve connector and any intermediate wiring connections.
Strut sensor connector on top of the strut and any intermediate wiring connections- another member on here has replaced a strut only to find it was a bad connection on or around the connector!!!

If you want to go the strut replacement route try Arnott Europe for remanufactured struts

First the strut
Then the valve block
Then the transponder (at least they could get that back off again!)
Then the piddling little bit of wire that cured it

 

[Philedge]

Seem to remember it being a painful tale!!!

I spoke to a guy last week whos NSF strut was dropping overnight. MB changed the ECU, then the strut, then the valve block to fix the problem when all he probably needed was a lock valve clean. Agony listening to his story!!!

 

[television]

Seem to remember it being a painful tale!!!

I spoke to a guy last week whos NSF strut was dropping overnight. MB changed the ECU, then the strut, then the valve block to fix the problem when all he probably needed was a lock valve clean. Agony listening to his story!!!

I agree, it is a painful tale, the ECU is £1000, the strut £1300:-(

 

[Philedge]

I agree, it is a painful tale, the ECU is £1000, the strut £1300:-(

And the valve block at £1000++ to finally get the dropping sorted.

He reckoned he'd spent £11K on repairs and servicing in 5 years of ownership and 10K miles

 

[ajlsl600]

abc again

And the valve block at £1000++ to finally get the dropping sorted.

He reckoned he'd spent £11K on repairs and servicing in 5 years of ownership and 10K miles

exactly why i print off all info i can on this car get bind it and keep in the boot , wont have room for luggage soon !!!!!!

 

[television]

exactly why i print off all info i can on this car get bind it and keep in the boot , wont have room for luggage soon !!!!!!

I will have to send you a pile of printed out info on the early 230's that I no longer need

 

[C A R S E]

I pick up the new strut tomorrow morning, I ended up purchasing it from Mercedes as Arnott didn't have them in stock, however after much haggling I only paid £135 more at Mercedes + I don't need to pay shipping to return exchange.

I'm hoping to fit the strut over the long weekend, wish me luck!

 

[television]

I do wish you good luck

 

[C A R S E]

I do wish you good luck

I started the strut removal today however I'm a little stuck

I have removed the 18mm nut to Detach the spring control arm from the rear axle (6a in diagram) but I am not able to remove the bolt it doesn't budge.

Any ideas?

 

[television]

I think that you will have to hit it with a hammer if you can get in there,if you can hit the head it should free it off.

 

[C A R S E]

I think that you will have to hit it with a hammer if you can get in there,if you can hit the head it should free it off.

I have tried hitting it with a hammer.....think I will need to remove the exhaust to get a bigger hammer in there, no doubt the exhaust brackets will be solid too