Squeaky Steering W205 Coupe 2016

Adrianfsl

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Hey everyone,

I’m getting this sound:
on both sides on a 20k miles W205 2016 Coupe when turning the wheels and going over bumps at low speeds. Any ideas on what it might be?

Cheers!
 

Uncle Benz

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Outer balljoint on the end of the lower arm. Its a complete arm to replace it unfortunately. Becoming quite a common occurrence
 
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Adrianfsl

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Outer balljoint on the end of the lower arm. Its a complete arm to replace it unfortunately. Becoming quite a common occurrence
Thanks a lot! The sound started on both sides simultaneously. Is it likely for both to have failed? Do you happen to know an approximate cost for this? Car is out of warranty - is it likely for MB to take part of the costs for such a thing at low mileage?
 

Blobcat

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Thanks a lot! The sound started on both sides simultaneously. Is it likely for both to have failed? Do you happen to know an approximate cost for this? Car is out of warranty - is it likely for MB to take part of the costs for such a thing at low mileage?
It’s not necessarily the miles that’s the issue, if it was on the M-Way day in day out it could be many 100’s of 1,000’s of miles before they wear out. If it spends its life driving round town over speed humps, potholes and lock to lock parking the steering components will wear out much faster.

As an example if you have the key in the ignition but the engine off turn the steering wheel lock to lock and see how much effort is required.

Power steering means many owners turn the steering wheel without the car moving. This puts enormous strain on the steering which they can’t feel or are aware of because of the power steering.

Try and only move the steering wheel when the wheels are rotating it puts a lot less strain on the system.
 

D5meister

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The control arm at the hub end.
There is an egg shaped steel bush sits on the taper of the ball joint.
The inner of this bush has the matching taper of the ball joint spiggot.
After use the inner of the bush becomes very slightly oversize due to a tiny bit of motion, it takes on a polished appearnce where previously it had fine machining marks - that is the indicator plus you have the squeak. I put 3 small drops of blue loctite in there and spead it all over into a thin film. Re-assy and tighen it super snug. Silence. Zero cost. Hope this helps.
Most people swap the arm, sure it fixes the squeak, but re fitting the original tight would fix also.
 

D5meister

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Have look at the u tub vids on my other post
 

Uncle Benz

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I’ve changed a lot of arms for squeaking. Thanks for the heads-up. I’ll take a look at that next time.
 

D5meister

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Before
After dot of Loctite and re-assy.
 

D5meister

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The metal bush looks like this, flick the white plastic retainer off the threaded shaft. Remove metal bush add drop of loctite inside or on the tapered shaft of the ball joint and spread it around. Re assemble.
 

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Ljusto

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Hi, I have the same problem.
D5meister is it long-life solution? I have prepared loctide blue but i am just wondering where to put loctide, can you check attached picture and answer (a. b. or c.)?

Thanks a lot for great solution...
 

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D5meister

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First off there are 2 modes of fail.
1 there is minor wear to the inside of the metal bushing. This squeaks only when you bounce the car. If you can tighten the 24mm star nut . Then you had wear/play/squeak on bounce. It will go away for a while, until it wears some more and squeaks again. Retighten. If you do strip it the metal bush lifts off the ball joint. The loctite goes eitger on tapered ball joint spiggot orthe bushing central hole. I re-tighten with a rattle gun rightly or wrongly. If you use a breaker bar the steering rack will extend.

2 squeak if you move steering left and right with engine running while not driving. If this squeaks it is the ball joint.

For 99% of people its replace the arm.

For hardline im going to try a bodge because its knackered anyway brigade - you can fit a 6mm grease nipple to the rear of the ball joint and pump Lucas RednTacky grease in. Flush out the old grease remnants. Swap nipple for grub screw with a few turns of ptfe tape.
Ive gone from mega squeaky to silent for a few months now. Hopefully get a year out of this relube.
 
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John christian Gagaring

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First off there are 2 modes of fail.
1 there is minor wear to the inside of the metal bushing. This squeaks only when you bounce the car. If you can tighten the 24mm star nut . Then you had wear/play/squeak on bounce. It will go away for a while, until it wears some more and squeaks again. Retighten. If you do strip it the metal bush lifts off the ball joint. The loctite goes eitger on tapered ball joint spiggot orthe bushing central hole. I re-tighten with a rattle gun rightly or wrongly. If you use a breaker bar the steering rack will extend.

2 squeak if you move steering left and right with engine running while not driving. If this squeaks it is the ball joint.

For 99% of people its replace the arm.

For hardline im going to try a bodge because its knackered anyway brigade - you can fit a 6mm grease nipple to the rear of the ball joint and pump Lucas RednTacky grease in. Flush out the old grease remnants. Swap nipple for grub screw with a few turns of ptfe tape.
Ive gone from mega squeaky to silent for a few months now. Hopefully get a year out of this relube.
Did you remove the arm and ball joint to do this or just did it with the car jacked up?
 

EasyD

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Hi all, I think I have the same problem?

 

aaroh

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I am facing a similar issue anyone knows what's the fix??
 

EasyD

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Did you find a fix?

Was booked into Dealer before the first lockdown and then but 3 weeks later - no sound, drove 15 miles to the dealer but couldn't hear any of the noise. I didn't fancy paying £100 ( for them to investigate the problem ) if the problem could not be seen or heard. Since then not driven the car continuously ( weekly) for some time so have not heard it since?
I doubt it's gone - maybe return when I start using the car more. Still, strange the noise is not there all the time? Thoughts anyone?
 

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