Starting the car

nialler

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Hi folks

Not a major problem but one that's occurred twice in the past week, when starting she's taking a while to turnover and catch and took 3 attempts saturday a week ago, now the mileage is at 88k and I'm thinking it might be sparks/leads that have come to the end of their life but any insight would be appreciated.

2000 W220 S320.

Thanks


Nialler
 

anyweb

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seeing as the time of year using more battery power, check your battery, could need replacing
 

M6AJJ

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This time last year, on almost the same car as yours, I had the same problem, always started but took two or three attempts. Had never happened before.

The battery failed in Jan, and once replaced never had the problem again, so worth checking the battery now.

Good luck!
 

television

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This is the time of year for battery problems, can be checked with a meter,shoud be 12,5 with the headlights on,engine off. when running it should be 13,8v.

Malcolm
 
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nialler

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I've had a problem with a dry cell on this battery already, I'll check again, only bought it in Jan.
 

television

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I've had a problem with a dry cell on this battery already, I'll check again, only bought it in Jan.


Dont let the only bought it in Jan put you off checking.

On my V70 i got through 3 batteries in 6 weeks,that went after 3 years, new one has been on 7 months no problems.

Malcolm
 

mioba

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guess what, i think its battery too,
get a decent warranted battery
 

Schtum

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If you can visit.

National tyres online, you get 10% off the price of new batteries.

They will check the charging circuit FOC and are pretty fair.

HTH's
 
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nialler

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Happened again this morning, about 6 attempts and no joy. Called the AA he sits in the car, starts first time, grrrrr.

Checked batter 14.1 while car running and alternator doing its job, had the car off went down to 13.

So the dilemma continues.
 

type49

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Hi folks

Not a major problem but one that's occurred twice in the past week, when starting she's taking a while to turnover and catch






Nialler

Do you mean it doesn't always turn over, turns over slow or turns over fine but does'nt start?
 
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nialler

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Turns over fine, not like a power loss, just turning for the cycle and not catching (ie starting) AA guy said it could be fuel pump related.
 

type49

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Could be crankshaft position sensor, easy enough to change if the engine's cold and you've got the right tools ( 5 mins ). Thinking about it, probably a real pain if you have'nt got the right tools. It's at the back of the engine, nearside, towards the top, in line with the flywheel. One fixing bolt & one small black connector.
 

anyweb

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Happened again this morning, about 6 attempts and no joy. Called the AA he sits in the car, starts first time, grrrrr.

Checked batter 14.1 while car running and alternator doing its job, had the car off went down to 13.

So the dilemma continues.

just cos the battery is reporting those values may/may not mean it's good

so, consider swapping it out for another one, and see if your issue disappears,

worst case you'll have a spare battery

cheers
anyweb
 
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nialler

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Could be crankshaft position sensor, easy enough to change if the engine's cold and you've got the right tools ( 5 mins ). Thinking about it, probably a real pain if you have'nt got the right tools. It's at the back of the engine, nearside, towards the top, in line with the flywheel. One fixing bolt & one small black connector.

Spot on type, phoned my guy today and said live with it till tuesday it's crank shaft sensor, let car cool down and try her then, did that, started no problem, starts cold immediately go for a quick run, come back out and try start her again, no joy, so he said 100% that's what it is.
 

television

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This makes 10 crankshaft sensors in the last few weeks, funny thing is that if it was a fiesta or the like its the first thing you change, its only a little Hall effect device, but the car will not run very well when it becomes erratic. this little swich open and closes with every revolution,in tempertures from -c to 40c.

malcolm
 

stargazerplus

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My starting with a 98 V6 c-class had become erratic hot or cold. Started first time usually but then maybe every tenth time would crank and not catch! I replaced the CPS as a matter of course as it is cheaper than a diagnostic. (£60). Hopefully problem solved.... strange thing is that the car feels that little bit smoother and more responsive. Be aware that the russian epc lists four parts for the car at varying prices. I ordered one from mercedes parts direct giving them my chassis number and although the part looked the same, it had a very slightly different part number form the original. Had it all in which was a real fiddle as the space is so tight and discovered why the part number was different: the cut outs on the connector were slightly different and the connector wouldn't slide on!!! Rather than taking the whole thing out I modified the connector plug and it fits fine.... the plug pushes on fairly tightly anyway. Apparently these sensors work on magnetic flux and the magnet becomes weaker. I did a little test with a ruler and a small piece of metal... the new part's magnet pulled the piece of metal to it at about 6mm distance and the old part only managed 3mm! WIS says that you need to reinitialize the sensor using star diagnosis but there is apparently a way around this. Start the car and select third gear hold. Drive off and get changed up to third and hold the engine in third for 30 seconds at below 2000 rpm. This came form a forum search at mercedesshop.com and don't know whether it is tosh or not.... the new sensor works anyway as the car runs perfectly!!!:eek:
 

television

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My starting with a 98 V6 c-class had become erratic hot or cold. Started first time usually but then maybe every tenth time would crank and not catch! I replaced the CPS as a matter of course as it is cheaper than a diagnostic. (£60). Hopefully problem solved.... strange thing is that the car feels that little bit smoother and more responsive. Be aware that the russian epc lists four parts for the car at varying prices. I ordered one from mercedes parts direct giving them my chassis number and although the part looked the same, it had a very slightly different part number form the original. Had it all in which was a real fiddle as the space is so tight and discovered why the part number was different: the cut outs on the connector were slightly different and the connector wouldn't slide on!!! Rather than taking the whole thing out I modified the connector plug and it fits fine.... the plug pushes on fairly tightly anyway. Apparently these sensors work on magnetic flux and the magnet becomes weaker. I did a little test with a ruler and a small piece of metal... the new part's magnet pulled the piece of metal to it at about 6mm distance and the old part only managed 3mm! WIS says that you need to reinitialize the sensor using star diagnosis but there is apparently a way around this. Start the car and select third gear hold. Drive off and get changed up to third and hold the engine in third for 30 seconds at below 2000 rpm. This came form a forum search at mercedesshop.com and don't know whether it is tosh or not.... the new sensor works anyway as the car runs perfectly!!!:eek:

Thank you for your imformative post, I cant see why it would need to be programed to the ECU if it was just lazy as we say. Perhaps if the sensor had failed completely ,then maybe the fault code would need to be cleared by star diagnostic.

Malcolm
 

stargazerplus

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Thank you for your imformative post, I cant see why it would need to be programed to the ECU if it was just lazy as we say. Perhaps if the sensor had failed completely ,then maybe the fault code would need to be cleared by star diagnostic.

Malcolm

Thanks Malcolm. The car didn't start well from cold on Friday. This morning it fired immediately. I hate to tempt fate, but hopefully the problem is solved. I also have an SL320 so I will be adding a few things to the routine maintenance:

Steering damper (already replaced and completely knackered at 40k and 5y)
MAF
Crankshaft Position Sensor.

These seem to be the three things that fail on these cars. Oh and talking about service I have decided on some other routine maintenance. At oil change time I use a Pela oil extractor to drain the oil. As my "sealed for life" 722.6 transmission does not have a torque converter drain plug I also suck out the 3.3 litres from the tranny pan and replace. At least every 6000 miles it is getting this amount of transmission fluid replaced. Euro car parts sell the fluid slightly cheaper than Mercedes and it is the original fluid! Costs about £7/l plus VAT.
 
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nialler

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Well had the sensor replaced last night, the guy thought he felt a misfire when the car was running so we hooked up the startac thingy, sure enough misfire on 1 & 4 (-0.45) or summat like that but she's at 87k so I'm sure the sparks need to be changed, seat sensor error also on passenger side and seat controller error so some major work done in January on her, then need approx 2,000 euro to get the gearbox changed fecker is a pit for money I tell thee.
 

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