Stop Light Switch - DIY ?

[gordonwd]

Having seen all the posts about the multiple ASR/BAS/ABS failure and the remedy being the "2 minute job" to replace the brake stop light switch....is it an easy DIY job or does it really need a decent garage job ?

Had a look throught the postings, but can't find any info on how easy it would be.

 

[television]

Having seen all the posts about the multiple ASR/BAS/ABS failure and the remedy being the "2 minute job" to replace the brake stop light switch....is it an easy DIY job or does it really need a decent garage job ?

Had a look throught the postings, but can't find any info on how easy it would be.

If you are prepaired to work just above the pedals you can do it your self,its easy

Malcolm

 

[gordonwd]

Idiot's Guide ?

Thanks for the mega-quick response. Is there an idiot's guide I could look at anywhere ?

 

[television]

Thanks for the mega-quick response. Is there an idiot's guide I could look at anywhere ?

I think that Jberks has done it, should be plenty of postings within this last 2 months

Malcolm

 

[gordonwd]

Yup - plenty of postings. All of 'em say how easy it is. Er, without giving any indication of how to do it.

Is it done via the footwell ? Do I have to go in under the hood ? How do I recognise it ? Does asking these questions mean I am too much of a numpty to even try ?

Yours inadequately


David

 

[television]

Yup - plenty of postings. All of 'em say how easy it is. Er, without giving any indication of how to do it.

Is it done via the footwell ? Do I have to go in under the hood ? How do I recognise it ? Does asking these questions mean I am too much of a numpty to even try ?

Yours inadequately


David

Its on or under the brake pedal, I think 2 wires, and I believe its held by 2 scews, I have seen it, but cant remember anymore, it really is that easy, other people that have done are just as normal as you. Its going to be cold in the morning, but go out there and do it.

Malcolm

 

[guydewdney]

usually a large nut (17mm spanner or thereabouts). its a small drim, about 1" diameter, with two wires on it on a L shaped or H shaped connector that pulls off the back.

It is located at the TOP of the brake pedal arm, on the steering wheel side of it (as opposed to the floor side). Loosen or undo nut (varies) and slide off to side or pull out.

Some are even 'popped' into place with a clip thing (a bit like rucksack connectors) into a metal plate.

There will be only one thing in the place I have described.

Oh - some will have 4 wires, two thick, two thin, if you have cruise control.

 

[bundy]

ok its no big job!!
step 1. remove 6 pozi head screws from lower dash cover (just above pedals)
step 2. remove lower blower vent exit on trans tunnel.
step 3 carefully pull downlower cover to gain access to the switch
step 4 look atop the brake pedal wit a torch & you will see the switch
step 5 turn the switch anticlockwise with fingers while squeesing the locator peg & withdraw the switch.
step 6 remove the 2 plug connectors from the switch.
refit is a reverse of removal except apply pressure to the brake pedal when refitting switch. this sets the brake switch sensitivity.
the above instructions assume either c class all models or e class 210 onwards

regards ted

 

[gordonwd]

Excellent - thank you pne and all. Will have a butcher's tomorrow.

Er, one more ****** stupid question. What does "e class 210" mean ? I have a 1998 E300TD Elegance. Smashin' car. Virtually no rust. Does that qualify as a 210 ?

Yours in ignorance.


David

 

[tjo]

can i just add the brake light switch is only one of literally
dozens of causes of these warning lights to come on,

 

[Dunx]

Er, one more ****** stupid question. What does "e class 210" mean ? I have a 1998 E300TD Elegance. Smashin' car. Virtually no rust. Does that qualify as a 210 ?

Yup, that qualifies as a 210. This referes to the chassis type. If you look at your VIN you'll notice it starts WDB210.

 

[jberks]

Er, one more ****** stupid question. What does "e class 210" mean ? I have a 1998 E300TD Elegance. Smashin' car. Virtually no rust. Does that qualify as a 210 ?

Yes the 210 is an 96-02 E class. W210 car, T210 Estate.

 

[tom7035]

Quote:
Originally Posted by gordonwd
"Thanks for the mega-quick response. Is there an idiot's guide I could look at anywhere ?"

"I think that Jberks has done it, should be plenty of postings within this last 2 months"

Malcolm

Doesn't sound too complimentary Malcolm!!

 

[television]

Quote:
Originally Posted by gordonwd
"Thanks for the mega-quick response. Is there an idiot's guide I could look at anywhere ?"

"I think that Jberks has done it, should be plenty of postings within this last 2 months"

Malcolm

Doesn't sound too complimentary Malcolm!!

I will try harder Tom to re phrase my post

Malcolm

 

[Kallisti]

Twas the reason mine came up. a bit annoyed that I paid MB about £70 or £80 to fix it now.. ho hum

 

[egrid1]

Have just done my Brake light switch on 2001 E class W210 006 chassis.
Couple of points that might help anyone with similar.
First removed the transmission tunnel vent - note that although it looks like a screw you only need to turn 90 degrees to release.
I removed the lower dash panel -
Then remove 2 pozidrive screws , one in centre and one towards drivers door. The tork screw down in the middle of the cover does not need to be removed.
The plastic as well as the fabric part that sweeps up to the dash comes off in one piece ( I initially thought it was just the plastic part I had to remove)
Where the fabric sweeps around towards gearbox there are slide clips holding it to transmission tunnel, pulling the cover down by the transmission tunnel slides these out. The top of the cover (under the dash) is secured by push fit lugs, so again the cover need to be pulled away.
Once pulled away the cover is still held in place by a retainer down near the brake / handbrake pedals, whilst this was strange looking, it simply unscrewed.
Because I wanted to remove the cover completely once the cover was 'dropped' I removed the screw holding the bonnet release catch to the cover, and passed the catch through the hole in the cover. I also removed the wire to the footwell light.
I was now able to easily access the switch.
Removed 2 plugs into switch.
NOTE my switch had to be turned CLOCKWISE (when looking at it from the footwell) to release, whilst holding the small lug on the right.
Refitting was a reversal. There was no method of adjusting the length of the plunger on my switch (or the one that was removed).
You can probably do this without removing the cover completely, just dropping it down, but access will be more restricted.
Job took no more than 15 minutes.
Part number MA001 545 64 09 from Mercedes £9.71 incl VAT

 

[wireman]

If you have to get at the switch its easier to slide back the seat and put your head where your feet go and your feet where your head normaly goes, this way up your arms will work normaly and you can reach around things under the dash/pedals.

 

[egrid1]

Following on from my post at #16 - I have just had the problem again (just 16 months after the last switch was replaced)
Price now £10.00 + Vat
It is easy to do the job without fully removing the cover, just drop it down.
Clarifying my own instructions the two pozidrive screws are located one near the drivers door and one near the centre console (not the centre of the panel).