Stud pattern exact dimensions

Smaltze

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Hello!

Im going to be CNCing my own wheel spacers, (i do know what im doing dont worry).

I hoping someone knows the exact dimensions for the stud pattern.
standard 5x112, w210 eclass.

i know the studs are 12mm, i know the centre bore is 66.1mm

I just want to know the layout of the studs, exactly where they sit in relation to each other..
How far apart are they, perhaps from centre to centre, etc etc, all this so i can map it all up in CAD.
I will try to work it out myself through some various ways but im hoping someone can tell me as much info as they can.

Thanks!
 
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television

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I would do an impression from the inside of the wheel face, and you could measure that. As Mercedes wheels are hub centric, they will need a outer flange to centre the wheel.
 

kid-jensen

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I thought the Hub size was 66.6 (the number of the Beast, obvioulsy)

Unless the 0.5mm difference is the clearance between the wheel and the Hub?

If you could make these to order, I reccon you will have a very busy business, it's taken me months to find some proper Bolt-on 30mm spacers for my ML.
 
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Smaltze

Smaltze

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I thought the Hub size was 66.6 (the number of the Beast, obvioulsy)

Unless the 0.5mm difference is the clearance between the wheel and the Hub?

If you could make these to order, I reccon you will have a very busy business, it's taken me months to find some proper Bolt-on 30mm spacers for my ML.

yes, i have just found another website telling me the bore is 66.6. i think ill stick with that.

To be honest, that would be fun but im only making these spacers myself since i need some whopping great ones, theyre very expensive, and i have all the kit to make my own. also its nice because the non OEM wheels i have bought have bigger centre bores, so im going to implement that into the spacers instead of buying spigot rings. :)

I plan on making straight through spacers since ill be using aluminium most likely, and i know the threads on them can be questionable + id rather just let the machine do all the accurate bits instead of threading them myself. Most high quality bolt on spacers have steel etc threads in them.

Im just going to get extra long bolts.

Anyway thanks all for the replys but ive found out what i need, used a reverse pcd calculator which happened to tell me its exactly 65.832mm between each whole for 5x112 pcd.

i ran it through a couple of other pcd calculators to make sure, i should be able to map it out with this info.

By the way, ill report back if mine are successfull, and we could arrange some non bolt on ones for cheap as chips if you would like.
 
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Smaltze

Smaltze

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Smaltze

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I would do an impression from the inside of the wheel face, and you could measure that. As Mercedes wheels are hub centric, they will need a outer flange to centre the wheel.

ive got some calibre cr3 18" :). 8" and 9"

the offset is 45 on them which is anoying, but it does actually fit as is.
Its partly the reason why im spacing them out though, although the 40+ mil i plan to space them out is more than the 10m off offset haha. all in the name of stance/looks :lol::twisted:
and yes i know its horrible for bearings, ill cross that bridge when i reach it hehehe.

I also have 35mm lowering springs on their way, some actual quality ones which i nabbed barely used for an absolute steal. some fun to be had!
 

television

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Would you like to borrow a spacer that is a very good fit, I would like it back again.
 

giuseppe

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can you get a spacer and put it on a CMM machine.
 

hotrodder

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i do know what im doing dont worry

With all due respect if you couldn't lay out / work out where the holes need to be from a P.C.D until pointed in the right direction then surely you don't know what you're doing? Not needed now but FWIW the formulas are in the machinist & fabricators best friend, a Zeus booklet

There are flavours of aluminium (7075-T6 for example) that are harder/stronger than low carbon steel and not far off the UTS of normalised 4130 chromoly. Not often used for things like wheel spacers as it's a lot more expensive than something common like 6082-T6 which still probably won't be cheap for a chunk of 6.5 - 7" dia bar... offcut prices vary a lot but a 3m length of 7" bar is around £700 + VAT
There's a reason why stupidly thick wheel spacers use two sets of wheel bolts, AFAIK no one makes grade 10.9 wheel bolts long enough to 'bolt through' a wheel and 40mm + thick spacers, probably because it's a bad idea to have wheel bolts that long. With more sensible sized spacers there's not enough thread engagement* into something like 6082-T6 hence steel thread inserts being used once spacers get thick enough to accept thread inserts

Sod the wheel bearings, spacing the wheels out lots is probably gonna make the thing horrible to drive and potentially dangerous (especially in the case of a puncture at speed) due to massive changes in scrub radius... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scrub_radius

* Off the top of my head to match the properties of grade 10.9 bolts you'd need a thread engagement length of around 3.5D (42mm for M12) into a med strength flavour of ally like the 6xxx series but that doesn't help thread wear for things like wheels that are removed relatively frequently
 
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television

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One little addition to hotrodders excellent post is that the BAS and ESP is worked out from the wheel spacing. Some Mercedes wheel books do point this out saying that you must not deviate too far from the correct ET.
 
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Smaltze

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With all due respect if you couldn't lay out / work out where the holes need to be from a P.C.D until pointed in the right direction then surely you don't know what you're doing? Not needed now but FWIW the formulas are in the machinist & fabricators best friend, a Zeus booklet

There are flavours of aluminium (7075-T6 for example) that are harder/stronger than low carbon steel and not far off the UTS of normalised 4130 chromoly. Not often used for things like wheel spacers as it's a lot more expensive than something common like 6082-T6 which still probably won't be cheap for a chunk of 6.5 - 7" dia bar... offcut prices vary a lot but a 3m length of 7" bar is around £700 + VAT
There's a reason why stupidly thick wheel spacers use two sets of wheel bolts, AFAIK no one makes grade 10.9 wheel bolts long enough to 'bolt through' a wheel and 40mm + thick spacers, probably because it's a bad idea to have wheel bolts that long. With more sensible sized spacers there's not enough thread engagement* into something like 6082-T6 hence steel thread inserts being used once spacers get thick enough to accept thread inserts

Sod the wheel bearings, spacing the wheels out lots is probably gonna make the thing horrible to drive and potentially dangerous (especially in the case of a puncture at speed) due to massive changes in scrub radius... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scrub_radius

* Off the top of my head to match the properties of grade 10.9 bolts you'd need a thread engagement length of around 3.5D (42mm for M12) into a med strength flavour of ally like the 6xxx series but that doesn't help thread wear for things like wheels that are removed relatively frequently

Guys cmon... give me a break here, i did say in my original post that i was asking if anyone had the info i was after before i went and worked it out myself (which i did).

Anyway, the prospect of making these spacers is becoming less ideal besides price, the alluminium cost isnt a problem, should work out no more than about £15 a spacer, but finding bolts long enough etc is a pain. Im tempted to just buy/make my own steel inserts... hmmmmmmmmm.
 
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television

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You can get 60mm bolts on Ebay, plenty on Ebay USA that ship to the UK. if you would be staying hub centric, then the bolts only have to keep the wheel flat to the hub face.
 
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Smaltze

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You can get 60mm bolts on Ebay, plenty on Ebay USA that ship to the UK. if you would be staying hub centric, then the bolts only have to keep the wheel flat to the hub face.

are they 60mm thread? i couldnt find any like that. alot of them said 60/70 long etc but the thread was more like 30 etc. i plan to stay hubcentric.
 
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Smaltze

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the options for me to have a steel insert, or something alike are actually quite good.
thats why making it myself is so handy because i can really customise it.
Even if it came down to having an insert that an m12 nut fit into on the spacer, and then the wedge holes on the other side, ie much like typical big spacers. i could even have 2 nuts in there with spacers thick enough, this SHOULD in theory work :)
 
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kid-jensen

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When I was loking for 30mm spacers, there were quite a few for sale without bolts and they were very cheap.

The reason for this is that wheel bolts that are long enough (70mm from the Taper) are just not available. When sellers say things like "never got round to fitting them" you know the reason why.

Eventually bought some with steel enserts which were beautifully made. I would have thought with a reasonable workshop, making up spacers which bolt to the hubs, then use the original wheel bolts in steel inserts would be the way to go.

Problem with mine is that the original wheel bolts are red-rusty!
 
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Smaltze

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When I was loking for 30mm spacers, there were quite a few for sale without bolts and they were very cheap.

The reason for this is that wheel bolts that are long enough (70mm from the Taper) are just not available. When sellers say things like "never got round to fitting them" you know the reason why.

Eventually bought some with steel enserts which were beautifully made. I would have thought with a reasonable workshop, making up spacers which bolt to the hubs, then use the original wheel bolts in steel inserts would be the way to go.

Problem with mine is that the original wheel bolts are red-rusty!

Yes I think this is exactly what I'm going to do, just need to get it lowered so I can really judge what space I need. My current tires are prett stretched too making them look really slim, not a fan. Think I'll go for something like 225/50 or so if they'll fit
 

LostKiwi

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My old Land Rover had a good way to do this.
On the back of the spacer were recesses. These held the head of a bolt threaded through the spacer to project into the wheel. The bolts were loctited into the spacer, the spacer bolted to the hub and the wheel mounted to the spacer and secured with nuts.
Simple, reliable and very strong. As an added bonus it made the wheels easier to get on and off as well....
 

kid-jensen

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OP,

Many years and many hours repairing Alloys has taught me to NEVER have narrower tyres than the rim!

Preferrably the other way round, especially if women are likely to be parking it. Women, (and men who drive like women) tend to have no mechanical sympathy and think nothing of measuring the distance to the kerb by ear...

I have 255/55s on mine and they're marginal in protecting the rims against kerbing....there's a set of 285/50s in the garage ready to go on, just as soon as I can wear out this set.

I'm doing my best!
 
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Smaltze

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OP,

Many years and many hours repairing Alloys has taught me to NEVER have narrower tyres than the rim!

Preferrably the other way round, especially if women are likely to be parking it. Women, (and men who drive like women) tend to have no mechanical sympathy and think nothing of measuring the distance to the kerb by ear...

I have 255/55s on mine and they're marginal in protecting the rims against kerbing....there's a set of 285/50s in the garage ready to go on, just as soon as I can wear out this set.

I'm doing my best!

I have good confidence in my parking ability, enough to run stretched tires. It worth it for the looks anyway ha. I have 9's on the rear,225/40 and 8 on the front 205/40. They are way too small since the alloys came off a vw. I expect I'll want to change them for sure, once it's got the new lowering springs on I'll know, I also want wider tires since it'll probably convince me to not to spare out so much :)
 


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