Stupid SL Roof (R230)

triumphstag

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Sep 28, 2013
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Location
Surrey, UK
Your Mercedes
SL 500 (2002) R230
So, Nice sunny day. I thought I would put the roof down. Car decided that it didn't think that was appropriate and instead would rather have the roof in a half up/half down configuration. :-(

So, basically the boot opens, the flaps extend out to the open position, the roof starts it's journey back and stops with the C pillars just past vertical. Dash says "In-Operation". No fault message or error code.
Then it wont go up or down.

Turn ignition off, remove key, 10 "bings" later and the roof releases and tries to fall down into the boot - a gentle shove pushes it back down closed onto the top of the windscreen, at which point I can put the key back in the ignition and close the roof with the switch in the normal manner.

Annoyingly, this was working fine last week.

I checked the micro switches around the flaps (2 per side). They all click in and out with a reassuring feel, and the flaps seem to make contact with them just fine in both in and out positions. The driver's side flap when in the extended/out position seems very solid, passenger side has a bit of movement, maybe 1cm at the end of the flap, but still seems to be making contact with the micro-switch.

Any thoughts anyone?

Second problem - and it has been doing this for a while - is that when closing the roof, the final stage of the boot lid closing doesn't sit down correctly - the front edge of the boot (nearest the back window) stops about 1" from being closed. If I release the switch in the car, there is a "clonk" and the front edge of the boot drops a few mm, at which point it will then close normally from the switch in the car. I'm guessing it is not seating home properly and needs a little adjustment. I cannot see where it is fouling though or where to adjust. Any help appreciated.

I doubt the two things are related, but you never know!
 

andynpz

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Jun 22, 2012
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Age
80
Location
CHELTENHAM, GLOS.
Your Mercedes
2017 GLE 350d, navy-blue, --- SWMBO's car, 2007 SL 350, (R230) silver.
Can't do any harm -

Apply a dribble of light lubricating oil at every articulation point you can find. Spray can with 4 inch flexible tube will be best for many. Don't use WD40 - it's not a lubricant.

This will necessitate blocking roof at halfway position to stop it sinking as hydraulic pressure falls. You may have done this already but if not, there could be a lot of dry joints after seventeen years :D
 

ajlsl600

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Nov 18, 2013
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Location
france
Your Mercedes
clk3202001,sl6002003 with everything regrettably sold ,A class 170cdi auto. NG/TF1800 ML250
i would be looking into the last issue to see if that has been the origin of the newer, more irritating fault that has just occurred, quite possibly yr smoking gun on this matter .
 

LostKiwi

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Aug 25, 2006
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Location
Midlands / Charente-Maritime
Your Mercedes
'93 500SL-32, '01 W210 Estate E240 (RIP), 02 R230 SL500, 04 Smart Roadster Coupe, 11 R350CDi
If you put it on Star you can watch the status of switches. Just because a switch clicks doesn't mean it's good. Internal corrosion of burning of a contact can fail a switch that seems ok. You could try metering each switch and checking the electrical operation.
 


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