stupid ****** w124 - honeymoon over!

[Hibbo]

Well maybe it's not that bad, just a few annoying little things;

The intermittent wiper setting doesn't work. I've read through a lot of old threads on this, but none of them fit my problem exactly. When the switch is in position I, the wiper is completely deed - if you switch from II to I, it will stop wherever it is, switch to 0 and it will park correctly. Similarly if it's in I and you podge the squirter, you get squirts but no smearage (for want of a better word), switch it quickly to 0 and smearage commences.

Lots was made of the N10 relay in the other threads, I have not removed mine yet but have gave it a good wiggle - to no effect. My instinct is that it's the switch on the stalk itself - but would this leave the wiper motor completely without power (as in stops dead wherever / lack of squirter smearage)? I do not even have a Haynesy yet so have no idea how it is wired. (Incidently, as no w124 E-class Haynesy exists, how much use would a pre-facelift one be? I know the engine is pretty different but what about the rest?) How easy is it to strip the stalk and access the switch?


I also need to remove my fuel tank sender as the gauge doesn't drop lower than 1/4 (don't ask me how I know that the tank was definitely empty :Oops: ). My w201 & w123 were saloons so this was easy, how do I get to it on a w124 estate (7 seater)?


Add to this my temp gauge shooting up to max until you tap it back down, I have plenty to keep me busy. :???:

 

[stumpy]

Stripping the stalk is easy. Just prise off the end cap and slide the stalk apart. Remember what position it's all in as you do it otherwise it's a bit of a fiddle to put back.

 

[kth286]

It might be worth rotating the fuse as they can cause intermittent operation when the fuse starts to corrode.

The fuel tank may be partly collapsed and is caused by the charcoal filter in the wing being blocked and causing excess vacuum in the tank.

The filter should be changed every 72k miles.

The Haynes manual is very useful - get it.

 

[Bolide]

Add to this my temp gauge shooting up to max until you tap it back down, I have plenty to keep me busy. :???:

I've seen this before. I suspect it's the guage, not the sender, as the car I saw it on had a new sender in the history file

I'd say the wiper problem is the switch. The Haynes manual is useful but, as it seems to be based on a very early car, much of it is useless. The wiring diagrams are very variable. Much like your wipers...

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk

 

[Hibbo]

I've seen this before. I suspect it's the guage, not the sender, as the car I saw it on had a new sender in the history file

I'd say the wiper problem is the switch. The Haynes manual is useful but, as it seems to be based on a very early car, much of it is useless. The wiring diagrams are very variable. Much like your wipers...

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk

Thanks for the replies, I agree Nick, I think the temp problem is the gauge itself, as it comes back down when you tap the dash. Interestingly it doesn't do it (shoot up) until the engine is up to temp. I had a similar problem with my w123 (much worse and affected fuel gauge too) - this was due to lifted PCB tracts in the cluster - easy to fix.

Can anyone tell me how to access the fuel level sender please?

I'll check the tank is alright when I get it over the pit.

Are wiring diagrams for this model available anywhere?

Cheers!

 

[Thegemmesabogie]

G'day Hibbo. The fuel tank sender is under the lining in the front well of the luggage space. The shallow one. There is a grommet then the wiring unplugs then there is a thing aboot 2" across which unscrews. You'll be wanting a few spares methinks? The voltage stabilisation relay can cause odd faults in gauges if its wonky.






.

 

[bigasotonuk]

Hi,
I agree with Thegemmesaboogie regarding the "voltage stabilisation relay" causing the temp & petrol gauge problem, as early Fords suffered similar problems which was down to a faulty voltage regulater they were mounted on the back of the clocks. I,d check that first before changing the fuel tank sender.

 

[mr rosher]

temp gauge

i had the same problem with my e280, once warm would shout up to max tap the dash it drops, it was`nt a major problem as i thought so dont worry?
then it started to do the same when hot or cold,??? so it was time to have a look, to my horror the wires that go in to the plug on the sender unit had got so brittle by the heat from the engine made the sheath to fall of the wires which just left the bear wire it self and they were shorting out,? worth a look

 

[Hibbo]

Thanks for all the pointers, I watched the gauge as I drove home from work last night, and it is absolutely solid until it is at about 80-85c, then it slowly starts to fluctuate up and back to 85c, then it flicks up to max, coming back to normalish a few times, then it whacks right up to the endstop. Having thought about it I now think it is the sender, not the gauge or wiring.

I don't think it has anything to do with the voltage stab as the the fuel guage and all other electrics are fine.

Am I right in saying the sender is buried under the huge intake manifold? (om606 engine)

 

[Flying Scot]

have a look see here

http://www.mercedesshop.com/Wikka/DoItYourSelf

regards

 

[amanda]

To Hibbo

The N10 relay replacement solved the Twilight Zone wipers problem on my 230TE where the wipers would suddenly start wiping for no reason and the indicator sometimes but not always didn't work.