supercharger

slksimon

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have recently bought an slk 200 kompressor,and there seems to be a grumbling noise coming from the supercharger,when a few revs are applied the noise goes,the car has done78000mls any ideas? regards simon.
 

luders79

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Hello,

Are you sure its not coming from the belt tensioner witch is just underneath supercharger?

I take it you have a 170 chassis ? what year is it?
 
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S

slksimon

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hi there
i am pretty sure its coming from the supercharger,have had the belt off,and the alternetor and pulleys seem very smooth,the car is a 53 plate 200slk kompressor automatic and runs really well its just this grumbling noise at tickover. thanks very much simon.
 

bigasotonuk

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Hi,
I am think these later Kompressor engines had problems with the pulley bearing, not 100% though, but i,m sure someone will correct me if i,m wrong.
 

owenrich

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Standard SLK engine noise

Hi, I'm glad to see that someone thinks "the noise" on an SLK at low revs (1400-2000) both up & down is "normal"! I isolated my "rattle noise" to the variable timing system worked by the cam magnet. Just to be sure I disconnected (pulled the plug) on the magnet and wow no noise! I have now left the magnet disconnected. Perhaps you could tell me if this could cause any damage to the engine (M111)? I can live with less power and perhaps less mpg for the sake of being "rattleless"! Cheers
 

Miffy

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even back in the day with points controlled ignition there was variable timing to ensure it was advanced at the correct time. Although then it was controlled by 2 counter weights.

If ignition advance things have been in cars for so long, I would say its best to leave it enabled and put up with the rattle
 

bigasotonuk

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even back in the day with points controlled ignition there was variable timing to ensure it was advanced at the correct time. Although then it was controlled by 2 counter weights.

If ignition advance things have been in cars for so long, I would say its best to leave it enabled and put up with the rattle

Have to agree with Mark, leave it connected and put up with the rattle, it could cause other damage, weak/rich mixture under load, overfuelling, could possibly cause the Lambda sensor or CAT to fail.
 

Alex Crow

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rattle from the camshaft solenoid is both normal and expensive to fix, not known one go pop yet and we reccomend leave connected end monitor for worsening. so far none has worsened in noise. we have replaced the variable mechanism on one and parts alone came to £400ish if i remember correctly.

to simon, as has been suggested it may be the belt tensioner, observe it and the belt carefully to see if it judders/deflects at idle.
 

5pares

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Early kompressors are quite noisy,i wouldnt worry about it.
 

owenrich

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Thanks to the four guys that responded to my query on "cam rattle". I will reconnect and keep an ear to the noise, hopefully it it is "normal for this car and won't get any worse! If you guys are reading this I have a P0131 code showing which I understand is weak fuel. Any ideas about this please? I would like to see if there is a problem rather than the O.2 sensor before I replace it. The car has done 80k and I would guess it's the original sensor. It's also likely to have been contaminated by oil from a leaking cam magnet (now fixed) via the wiring loom! But just thought I would ask first. Thanks guys.
 

Alex Crow

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firstly, check the plug to the o2 sensor for oil ingress.
 

type49

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rattle from the camshaft solenoid is both normal and expensive to fix, not known one go pop yet

Common but not normal, as a new adjuster cures the noise, obviously something is worn in the old one.

Agree though, I've never seen or heard of one actually fail & do any harm.
 

Alex Crow

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Common but not normal, as a new adjuster cures the noise, obviously something is worn in the old one.

Agree though, I've never seen or heard of one actually fail & do any harm.

yes quite right, common but not normal - just like me :D
 

owenrich

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Common but not normal, as a new adjuster cures the noise, obviously something is worn in the old one.

Agree though, I've never seen or heard of one actually fail & do any harm.

Hi again again, "a new adjuster", could you tell/show me, or direct me to a site/thread, how to change the adjuster/s please? Have you an idea of the cost of the necessary part/s? I now suspect that with the cam magnet unplugged, the timing is allowing a weak petrol/air mix that is causing the O.2 sensor to give the P0131 reading. Which suggests the sensor is ok after all and I should fix the timing adjuster/s to clear the engine management light & the "rattle" in one go! Appreciate your help on this. Owen.
 

wiltsandy

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Thanks to the four guys that responded to my query on "cam rattle". I will reconnect and keep an ear to the noise, hopefully it it is "normal for this car and won't get any worse! If you guys are reading this I have a P0131 code showing which I understand is weak fuel. Any ideas about this please? I would like to see if there is a problem rather than the O.2 sensor before I replace it. The car has done 80k and I would guess it's the original sensor. It's also likely to have been contaminated by oil from a leaking cam magnet (now fixed) via the wiring loom! But just thought I would ask first. Thanks guys.

Owen,

Code P0131 is O2 sensor low voltage and is the same code as I had. Although I cleared it a few times with the OBDII scanner it coming back and I'm pretty sure it was caused by oil creeping down through the connector and into the sensor itself. Replaced the O2 sensor with a £15 jobbie off ebay and have no problems since.

HTH
 

owenrich

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Hi Andy, thanks for that. Hope you & Merc are going well. Just before your message I had asked for help in renewing the cam adjuster/s (think there are two). I have been on about my "rattle" till everyone no doubt is bored to tears, but now realise I need to get it fixed. You are possibly right about the oil onto the sensor, but the code reading (P0131 weak mixture) would suggest that the sensor is actually working. I had thought the "rattle" was the CAT, but luckily, or not, it is the cam magnet operating, not unusual on the M111 engine apparently, but the level of noise would indicate the adjusters are worn and will possibly get noiser! So please guys check my request (two back) for advice on cam adjuster replacement. Cheers. Owen.
 

type49

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There is only one cam adjuster but it's a big-ish job to replace. Best done by removing the inlet camshaft. I have seen a few unplugged & left with no obvious problems. I would agree with Andy & suspect oil is in the loom & travelled down to the 02 sensor.
 

Alex Crow

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firstly, check the plug to the o2 sensor for oil ingress.

the cause of your p0131 code could be oil in the loom. have a scan at all the posts about this problem and don`t change the o2 sensor until you can be sure the connector to it will not foul with oil again. changing the entire wiring loom is probably not necessary, possibly even the o2 sensor will work properly again. if there is no oil in the connector then get back to us for more info.

the cam adjuster will be £400 or more to buy and should require the supercharger to be removed to access the chain tensioner - this makes for a long job. the rocker cover and top front case also need to be removed followed by the camshaft. always work with the timing marks ligned up (could be 20 deg atdc on your motor, can`t remember) and mark the camchain position on the sprockets/gears. removing the exhaust cam gear first will give enough freeplay to extract the inlet cam. to avoid removing the chain tensioner it is possible to wedge the tensioner rail in position before removing the exhaust sproket, but don`t tell MB. always undo/tighten the cam caps in small increments. oh, getting a haynes (c-class) manual would help....
 


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