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owenrich

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There is only one cam adjuster but it's a big-ish job to replace. Best done by removing the inlet camshaft. I have seen a few unplugged & left with no obvious problems. I would agree with Andy & suspect oil is in the loom & travelled down to the 02 sensor.

Thanks for this Type49, I think I will leave the cam magnet unplugged for now as the motor is running smooth as silk, is that possible! I will keep an eye on the mpg though!! There is oil in the O.2 sensor & elswhere, but I have fitted MB's blocker line & a new magnet and have been washing all the plugs & sockets for a couple of months now. So it's fingers crossed that I caught it in time! Cheers. Owen.
 

owenrich

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the cause of your p0131 code could be oil in the loom. have a scan at all the posts about this problem and don`t change the o2 sensor until you can be sure the connector to it will not foul with oil again. changing the entire wiring loom is probably not necessary, possibly even the o2 sensor will work properly again. if there is no oil in the connector then get back to us for more info.

the cam adjuster will be £400 or more to buy and should require the supercharger to be removed to access the chain tensioner - this makes for a long job. the rocker cover and top front case also need to be removed followed by the camshaft. always work with the timing marks ligned up (could be 20 deg atdc on your motor, can`t remember) and mark the camchain position on the sprockets/gears. removing the exhaust cam gear first will give enough freeplay to extract the inlet cam. to avoid removing the chain tensioner it is possible to wedge the tensioner rail in position before removing the exhaust sproket, but don`t tell MB. always undo/tighten the cam caps in small increments. oh, getting a haynes (c-class) manual would help....


Great info thanks, I agree with you regarding the O.2 sensor, thanks for that. Your info on the cam adjuster replacement is spot on and as you will see from my other reply to Type49 I think I will leave it be & unplugged for now! The Haynes tip is very welcome as I would certainly need something like that. Still the help I have received from you guys and all those from the other MB forum sites has been fantastic. Great work & thank you. Cheers. Owen.
 

coventryslk

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cam adjuster is an easy job. Just remove from front of engine and is between cams take 30 mins max
 

Alex Crow

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cam adjuster is an easy job. Just remove from front of engine and is between cams take 30 mins max

not sure what you mean mr slk. perhaps the camshaft adjuster solenoid? it is the mechanism mounted on the inlet camshaft that causes the reported noise.
 

bigles

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I had the same problem, thanks to the poster I have now remedied it on a CLK 200K. I reckon the insulation must break down over time (Not helped by oil contact) weakening the electro magnet and allowing it to release the plunger at resonance. The part is available from the dealership for £36 + VAT. Thanks very much everyone.
 

type49

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cam adjuster is an easy job. Just remove from front of engine and is between cams take 30 mins max

As AlexP, cam adjuster is no way a 30 min job. Adjuster MAGNET is though. To replace the adjuster itself is timing engine up, timing chain adjuster off (if it's a kompressor then that's over half hour straight away) rocker cover off, top front engine cover off, inlet camshaft off...................

30 minutes!!! You must be superman;);)
 

Alex Crow

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can be done with compressor on if you are a smart arris like me :D (have a read back a page or two). but still a long job.

and bigles, changing the magnet will not stop the on/off idle rattle - have a read of this thread, it's all there.

isn't the internet a wonderful source of mis-information? and sarcasm :roll:
 

owenrich

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Hi, last couple of posts right on the spot! If anyone is interested I sourced a Cam Adjuster (not magnet) from "The Parts Gateway" for £92 incl tax & postage! This is for a 2003 SLK200K M111-958 engine. I also found an indie who will fit it for about £250. In fact he has an inlet camshaft complete with adjuster from a crash job for £100 plus fitting. I'm not sure about this though, as I don't know the mileage and it could make as much noise as I already have! What do you think? Owen. ps. it's www.partsgateway.co.uk & enqiries@partsgateway.co.uk
 

Alex Crow

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£250 is about the right price. i would expect to take 3 - 4 hrs.
 

bigles

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Thanks Alexander patient, I'm looking to change the whole shooting match, including the magnet, mine is to noisy to put up with, any special/adapted tools needed?
 

Alex Crow

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the easy way is to wedge the tensioner rail tight to the tensioner to avoid it ratcheting across while the chain is loose, we use a nylon wedge for this purpose. always secure tools used like this to avoid unhappy endings, our wedge has a long steel wire to secure it from accidentaly falling!

the job itself is fairly easy for the competent. set the timing up before you start and mark the chain to the sprockets to aid refitting. you will need to remove the exhaust sprocket to get chain slack, then unbolt the inlet cam.....hang on getting dejavu here. i think i have writen all this in this thread before?

good luck, and ask the questions if you get stuck.
 

bigles

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Thanks again Alexander Patient, I looked at the job and decided to pass on doing the job myself, (I know my limits!). I got an indie garage to have a go and they fitted the new one, even though they overtightened the adjuster plunger collar preventing it from moving in and out. Its all working now and quietly, however it feels like the timing may be out slightly as the engine sounds a bit erratic when idling and at around 1500 rpm, is there a simple tweak to tune this out?
 

phensic

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clk 200k cam rattle

Seems this problem is common mine has been doing it since 29000 now 39000and merc say is normal and not to worry ,but they say even if they replace the v v t sprocket the rattle can/may return . it only does it when hot and only at pick up and return to tickover. Has any one replaced theres and has it come back after thanks.
 

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