TE boot hinge attack!!

[ric220]

Hi All. A couple of things...
The boot on my 220TE enjoys nothing more than slapping me on the back of my head as I rummage among the assorted junk I store in it. Does it stay open via long springs that disappear into the roof like on w123's, and if so can I adjust them to actually stay open? If not, is replacing them complex / costly? Should I invest in the "long bit of dowelling" solution which I used for years on my 123's?
Also, where is the fuse for auto 'box surround illumination lights as they're not working? I assume its a fuse as there must be more than 1 bulb and therefore they didn't all blow at once (think that query should be in another forum so apologies).?
Cheers,
rich

 

[television]

Also, where is the fuse for auto 'box surround illumination lights as they're not working? I assume its a fuse as there must be more than 1 bulb and therefore they didn't all blow at once (think that query should be in another forum so apologies).?
Cheers,
rich[/QUOTE]
I do not think ther is a fuse for this, but lamps do have a habit of failing altogether, but in your car there is only one bulb.

Malcolm

 

[guydewdney]

again - theres a small shock absorber looking thing in the pillar - part number 124 980 01 64

no idea how much or how difficult.

 

[ric220]

Boot hinge

Thanks Guy for info.
w115 with a w116 6.9??? You serious??

 

[guydewdney]

yup. W114 coupe not 115 (which is 2 inches shorter in the engine bay as the 115 was the 4 cylinder models, 114 was the 6.)

The V8 is just two 4 cylinders long... a bit fatter maybe... but the engine mounts are in the same place on both cars. The torque converter is slightly fatter which I think will be the biggest problem. That and keeping it pointing forwards LOL

 

[andy_k]

there are gas struts which dissapear into the roof lining and they are hidden behind the rear section of the roof panel.

Well, that's the description of where they are but doesn't even begin to describe the hassle of changing them. Be prepared for lots of swearing, wondering why you only have two hands when three would be better if you could actually see what you were doing and have a box of band aid ready for the inevitable cuts and scrapes.

the job goes a bit like this....

1, support the rear of the car with an axle stand on each side - no need to jack it up but make sure the suspension can't go down any lower - very important this bit as once you have the tailgate supported with wood when you lean on the back of the car you will at best bend the hinges or at worst bend the door and pop the window out.

2, open the rear door and support it with timber so that it can't fall on your head when you remove the struts

3, remove the rear section of the roof lining

4, remove the clip from the end of the retaining bolt on the rearward end of the strut then spend 30 minutes wondering where it fired off to before realising it's behind the roof liner and just out of reach - improvise with a home made tool to recover the clip. Then remove the retaining bolt. This is a "3 hand moment" - one to hold the strut, one to push the bolt out and one to catch the bolt - it's up to you which of those options you choose not to do but be careful - despite the fact the struts are worn out they will still have some pressure in them and can suddenly fire out (Band Aid time as you will no doubt skin your knuckles on the roof edging)

5, Wash blood and bits of skin off roof lining

6, holding a small torch in your mouth to cast a little light in the darkness locate the front retaining bolt for the strut. Just to add to the complications it's held in place by a metal locking flange - a pair of long nosed pliers and another couple of band aid will release the flange and then you can undo and pull out the nut and bolt then remove the strut.

Re-assembly is the reverse of the above but slightly more awkward as your new strut will be at full pressure and squeezing the bolt into the small aperture for the front bracket is awkward to say the least and will probably require at least two more band aids.

It's a real fiddly job best performed by somebody 3 feet tall with; the ability to see in the dark or with a torch built into their forehead, 3 really skinny arms, 18 fingers which are 14" long with a grip like a mole wrench.

As for the shifter light that's a lot easier

1, lift off the pastic gear shift surround

2, if you've got a centre tray lift the carpet and undo the large crosshead screw at the front (If you have the roll top box you can access the screw easier - it's the large one in the centre, the two side ones hold the console box in place)

3, lift the centre console wood from the rear, it will need a firm but gradual pull as the mirror switch will provide resistance don't pull too sharply or you risk cracking the wood. Once you've freed the rear then the front is just held in by hooks

4, remove the E/S slider (again it just lifts)

5, you can now see the the shifter mechanism box. At the sides there are three large clips free those and the top of the box will lift off. You can now remove the various bits of plastic covering the shift numbers and under there you will find the bulb. Be carefuol not to lose the little plastic guide which holds the E/S switch in place

reassembly is the reverse.

This may sound like it's an awkward job but it's taken me longer to type the instructions than it takes to do it.

One last bit of advice though, buy the new bulb from the dealers before you start on the job

HTH

Andy

 

[ric220]

Boot strut - thanks

Thanks a lot Andy for the info on replacing boot strut. It just so happens that I am in fact 2ft tall, and have 3 hands, each with 17 fingers! However, given that it sounds like a pig of a job, added to which sadly I'm a lazy bugger, I think I'll put up with the problem till it gets worse. When it does, I'll attach a rubber bungee to the bottom edge of the boot, stretch it over the roof and attach other to the bonnet lip which will, I am confident, will keep the boot open when required, and am sure you'll agree, add a certain something to the overall styling of the car. Will tackle the shifter lights this weekend, unless I find I have anything more important to do, like sitting down, drinking beer etc.
Cheers again,
Rich

 

[Myros]

mercedes have provided

a handy bungee-attachment point on the bonnet already, towit one three-pointed star. also useful for weddings.

Andy, that just has to be the funniest how to I've ever read. It beats my work-in-progress on how to fix your SL-speedo-even-if -it's-not-broken by miles. I think I'll pass on this year's Booker.

 

[andy_k]

ric, sitting down and drinking beer has got to be seen as a very important part of any maintainance or repair work (well any sort of work at all). It gives you time to consider all the pros and cons and potential pitfalls of the job and allows you the opportunity to research your subject matter fully. It also buys you more time to come up with a really good excuse as to why your time is better spent doing something other than the job you are doing your best to avoid.

Switching the television on is also a really important part of any skivers methodology as it adds on a whole new raft of excuses and many more chances to delay any danger of you doing anything constructive.

The internet is even better. You can sit at your computer, beer in hand, watching the TV out of the corner of your eyes whilst looking at porn sites and pretend to the rest of your family that you are doing some really important research to help you complete the job you have no intention of doing today (or any other day if we are honest) as quickly and safely as possible.

Myros, thanks, I liked your speedo WIP and I think all manuals should be written that way. OK it may take a litle longer but at least you'd be prepared better than reading a Haynes book or similar

Andy

 

[henrivanderstighelen]

I have just posted a very similar thread bu on my Oct 2002 E class Estate - did not expect it but got a good old slap on the back of the head - I believe it is a moter driven pneumatic pump - called tailgate assist - checked to fuse under the rear seat to no avail - don't know yet how complex or expensive - but watch this space

H

 

[turnipsock]

My 230TE went through a spell of attacking me in the same manner. I was having problems with a leaking rear screen at the time. Once I sorted out the screen the problem sorted itself.

I did see a spring in the roof when I was replacing the rear woosher pipe.

Check the drain holes aren't blocked on the tailgate.

 

[henrivanderstighelen]

there are gas struts which dissapear into the roof lining and they are hidden behind the rear section of the roof panel.

Well, that's the description of where they are but doesn't even begin to describe the hassle of changing them. Be prepared for lots of swearing, wondering why you only have two hands when three would be better if you could actually see what you were doing and have a box of band aid ready for the inevitable cuts and scrapes.

the job goes a bit like this....

1, support the rear of the car with an axle stand on each side - no need to jack it up but make sure the suspension can't go down any lower - very important this bit as once you have the tailgate supported with wood when you lean on the back of the car you will at best bend the hinges or at worst bend the door and pop the window out.

2, open the rear door and support it with timber so that it can't fall on your head when you remove the struts

3, remove the rear section of the roof lining

4, remove the clip from the end of the retaining bolt on the rearward end of the strut then spend 30 minutes wondering where it fired off to before realising it's behind the roof liner and just out of reach - improvise with a home made tool to recover the clip. Then remove the retaining bolt. This is a "3 hand moment" - one to hold the strut, one to push the bolt out and one to catch the bolt - it's up to you which of those options you choose not to do but be careful - despite the fact the struts are worn out they will still have some pressure in them and can suddenly fire out (Band Aid time as you will no doubt skin your knuckles on the roof edging)

5, Wash blood and bits of skin off roof lining

6, holding a small torch in your mouth to cast a little light in the darkness locate the front retaining bolt for the strut. Just to add to the complications it's held in place by a metal locking flange - a pair of long nosed pliers and another couple of band aid will release the flange and then you can undo and pull out the nut and bolt then remove the strut.

Re-assembly is the reverse of the above but slightly more awkward as your new strut will be at full pressure and squeezing the bolt into the small aperture for the front bracket is awkward to say the least and will probably require at least two more band aids.

It's a real fiddly job best performed by somebody 3 feet tall with; the ability to see in the dark or with a torch built into their forehead, 3 really skinny arms, 18 fingers which are 14" long with a grip like a mole wrench.

As for the shifter light that's a lot easier

1, lift off the pastic gear shift surround

2, if you've got a centre tray lift the carpet and undo the large crosshead screw at the front (If you have the roll top box you can access the screw easier - it's the large one in the centre, the two side ones hold the console box in place)

3, lift the centre console wood from the rear, it will need a firm but gradual pull as the mirror switch will provide resistance don't pull too sharply or you risk cracking the wood. Once you've freed the rear then the front is just held in by hooks

4, remove the E/S slider (again it just lifts)

5, you can now see the the shifter mechanism box. At the sides there are three large clips free those and the top of the box will lift off. You can now remove the various bits of plastic covering the shift numbers and under there you will find the bulb. Be carefuol not to lose the little plastic guide which holds the E/S switch in place

reassembly is the reverse.

This may sound like it's an awkward job but it's taken me longer to type the instructions than it takes to do it.

One last bit of advice though, buy the new bulb from the dealers before you start on the job

HTH

Andy

Enjoyed the pre-amble and now confident enough to avoid the job - thanks the the comprehensive breadown of jobs (Haynes never told it like that!) I am about to tackle this job on my E Class - bit miffed since it is only 3 1/2 years old - anyway, although an engineer and well used to the trials of motoring - I try to avoid head clothes, roof linings etc - can you advise - on the E Class how easily does the rear roof lining come down - any advice greatly appreciated ... Henri

 

[andy_k]

can you advise - on the E Class how easily does the rear roof lining come down - any advice greatly appreciated ... Henri

I've never done the job on a later E class, the description I gave applies to the W124 range.

Removing the rear headling should be a pretty easy job though, take off any trim around the back door and it should just drop down

Andy