The Dreaded P2036 (P0410) Issue CLK 230

clk2000

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Hi all .. I have the dreaded codes that seem to be like some kind of epidemic. The classic P2036-001 (P0410), and really need some help with this one.

The codes are saying "Secondary Air Injection Too Gearing" .. I have done just about everything I can find on this fault .. checked 1 way valve (no issue), replaced Vacuum Valve, Checked all hoses (no faults), replaced front Lambda etc etc ..

When I start the car from cold .. it hunts all over the place on occasion (revs go anywhere between 600 to 1200 rpm and sounds like its on 3 cylinders almost for about 10 secs then stabilizes. The EML stays out when cold, but when the car is warm, it throws the codes randomly.

I have searched and searched on this issue and can't find anything on this particular issue. Based on logic .. I think the key is "Too Gearing" .. If a valve was blocked or vacuum issue .. then "Too Gearing" wouldn't come into the equation ??

This thought leads me to possibly one of 2 units .. either the air flap on the Supercharger or the one on the inlet manifold, but the question is which one ? The car is running fine apart from this and seems to drive like it should without any other codes coming up on the ME system. I have been on this issue now for around 4 months off and on and cant trust the car to even go 20 miles without this code coming up. There is nothing more frustrating than throwing money at a car that has to stay off the road cos it can't be trusted .. Grrr

Can anyone help or had this issue before ? .. cos this is now doing my head in !!

Many thanks in advance for any input :)
 

alexanderfoti

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Too gearing sounds like its a complete mis translation of the original fault....

The secondary air fault, is purely emissions related and will not cause limp mode etc on your car, just an annoying light.

One of the two flaps is probably stuck or not moving correctly. It needs to go on star and have them actuated to check they are moving.
 
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clk2000

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Many thanks for your input alexander and I feel you could be right with your mis translation thoughts. I am using Carsoft 7.4 as a diag tool and not star and it's quite possible you could be right.

I am by no means thick when it comes to mechanics and have ran my own garage for 17 years and started in a BL dealership many many years ago. I agree that the secondary air system is purely vacuum and valve based and as such .. the word "gearing" didn't gel with me. The car isn't going into limp home but has had other issues that caused it which I have sorted (MAP Sensor, possible damp in ECU caused by a missing cover, Probe before cat aging etc)

I guess it's time to find someone with a star.
 
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clk2000

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Just a bit of an update for you ....

I managed to source a matched pair of throttle bodies (supercharger and main throttle body) from another w208 230.

I removed the main throttle body from the inlet manifold first and was horrified at what I found ...

Contained in the gauze UNDER the unit, was 2 sections of the sealing O Ring from the TOP of the unit that came from the elbow that is attached from the main MAF pipe. This means that somehow the o ring had been cut in 2 places and actually passed through the venturi to end up in the gauze basket.

The unit itself looks to be as clean as new with no carbon build up inside the throttle body. Whether this had anything to do with the rubber floating around or whether this unit had been replaced by a previous owner, I have no idea.

I put the original unit back on the car and started it up ... same apparent hunting and seeming like it's on 3 cylinders for the first 10 seconds or so, thus telling me that something is still wrong (assuming this hunting isn't normal on cold start from new ? )

So .. Is it possible I may have to do a throttle "relearn" ?? (maybe as a result of the rubber o ring jamming the throttle flap previously) .. or to change the inlet throttle body out and write it off as knackered ?? Comparing the 2 side by side .. it seems the flaps are in approximately the same starting position static (just slightly open on both)

No much wonder the secondary circuit was "too gearing" ... Hmm
 
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clk2000

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Ok .. If it helps anyone else in the future, I believe I have found the fault. I have done over 50 miles so far without issues after replacing just about everything on the secondary circuit and .. typically .. it would be the last unit in the chain. I removed the throttle body from the supercharger and weird though this sounds .. it looked to me like the butterfly had got bent ?

My guess is that some previous owner amateur had seen the butterfly open (usual start point) and assumed incorrectly that it should have been closed and from what I am seeing .. it looks like they tried to lever it closed ... idiots hahaha.

Anyway .. it looks like my EML issue may be over and I hope this posting helps someone else along the way.
 
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clk2000

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Don't you just hate it when you say something and then you get proved wrong ? .. Here we go again.

The fault is back !! .. This time I never drove the car, but left it idling for around 30 mins, came out and the EML was on again. I ran the codes again and same fault ... P2036-001 (P0410) Secondary Air Injection Too Gearing.

So far, I have replaced the Vacuum Valve, checked all vacuum pipes, checked one way valve, replaced both throttle bodies and still this issue keep recurring. There is only one item left in the system and that is the solenoid unit, which apparently "never gives out".

I am now officially stumped. It's now getting to the stage that I am drawn towards just living with this fault and resetting it when it occurs. The only main issue is that the wife also will be driving the car and she will get anxious when the light comes up.

I have checked the list of OBD codes of Mercedes and the "too Gearing" fault is listed, so I'm sure this is a valid issue and not a case of "mis translation"

Can anyone else shed some light on the too gearing fault ? .. I cant find this particular description anywhere, although I know it exists.
 

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Don't you just hate it when you say something and then you get proved wrong ? .. Here we go again.

The fault is back !! .. This time I never drove the car, but left it idling for around 30 mins, came out and the EML was on again. I ran the codes again and same fault ... P2036-001 (P0410) Secondary Air Injection Too Gearing.

So far, I have replaced the Vacuum Valve, checked all vacuum pipes, checked one way valve, replaced both throttle bodies and still this issue keep recurring. There is only one item left in the system and that is the solenoid unit, which apparently "never gives out".

I am now officially stumped. It's now getting to the stage that I am drawn towards just living with this fault and resetting it when it occurs. The only main issue is that the wife also will be driving the car and she will get anxious when the light comes up.

I have checked the list of OBD codes of Mercedes and the "too Gearing" fault is listed, so I'm sure this is a valid issue and not a case of "mis translation"

Can anyone else shed some light on the too gearing fault ? .. I cant find this particular description anywhere, although I know it exists.
Had a long look around and can't find anything like that the best I can come up with is
P2036-001 intake air device:wrong operation (work link),air flow too small.[P0410]
Been trying to post for a few hours but the site has gone into limp mode again!
 
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clk2000

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Ok .. best I give the full quotation of the error I have ...

P2036-001 Air injecting Malfunctioning (acting elements) Air flow is too gearing (P0410)
 

LostKiwi

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Try checking the breather valve at the back of the engine. If they fail they can cause this code.
 
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clk2000

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Hi Oldspanners,

Yes, I have indeed seen the video. The one way valve is easy to blow through and shuts off when I suck on the pipe. The valve although wasn't choked in any way, has been replaced .. all vacuum lines have been checked and the supercharger diversion is acting correctly (remove pipe after valve and flow about equal to a hairdryer for the first 30 secs or so) .. both throttle bodies have been replaced. To the best of my knowledge, the only item not replaced is the solenoid that actuates the vacuum valve, but again .. the valve is being operated correctly as previously described.

The weird part of this scenario is that from cold, no issues. I can drive the car for a 25 mile run ... nothing. If I start the car from cold and let it idle for 30 mins .. bang .. EML on. This issue seems to be with a warm engine only. Oh .. the Lambda sensor has been replaced also.
 

Oldspanners

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Hi Oldspanners,

Yes, I have indeed seen the video. The one way valve is easy to blow through and shuts off when I suck on the pipe. The valve although wasn't choked in any way, has been replaced .. all vacuum lines have been checked and the supercharger diversion is acting correctly (remove pipe after valve and flow about equal to a hairdryer for the first 30 secs or so) .. both throttle bodies have been replaced. To the best of my knowledge, the only item not replaced is the solenoid that actuates the vacuum valve, but again .. the valve is being operated correctly as previously described.

The weird part of this scenario is that from cold, no issues. I can drive the car for a 25 mile run ... nothing. If I start the car from cold and let it idle for 30 mins .. bang .. EML on. This issue seems to be with a warm engine only. Oh .. the Lambda sensor has been replaced also.
As you have verified everything works as it should when cold all I can suggest at the moment is that the system is activating when it shouldn't ie when the engine is warm.
P2036-001 intake air device:wrong operation (work link),air flow too small.[P0410]
That may be the "wrong operation" part of the code if the translation I found is correct.
If you can find any data from the O2 sensors and fuel trim when this happens it may give a pointer to the problem.
Sorry I can't think of anything else at the moment other than some more parts of the seal have lodged in the intake somewhere.
 
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clk2000

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If I didn't like the car and put so much time, effort and money into it .. I think I would give up.

Final update on the P2036-001 issue ...

I ended up replacing everything that was replaced before and came to the last thing .. the dreaded 1 way valve going to the exhaust manifold. It seems that it was partially seized and although it went through the motions on testing, it wasn't free enough to work properly every time. I have now changed that unit as well and it hasn't thrown the code since after a month of driveway testing.

On the subject of "painting the forth Bridge" ..

Now the car has decided to throw a P200C-001 (P0340) code at me on the day that the MOT expired. I understand this is the Camshaft Hall Sensor having no signal ... again. The Cam Sensor was replaced less than 200 miles ago and I thought I had best check the Camshaft Position Sensor (knowing about the oil issue) ... lo and behold .. The electrical connector had oil in it (closer to half full) so now I guess it's replacing the both of those, as well as the Fusebox cover, steering linkage complete, lower ball joint, 2 tyres, water pump, auxillary belts, gear lever unit, auxillary water heater, brake servo and a whole replacement of the secondary air system units, both MAP Sensors, amongst other items I can't bring to mind at the moment .. all on a car that has done less than 500 miles since I bought it. i now know why some claim that Mercs are money pits. Does no one replace anything as they go along ? or are all Mercs run into the ground to leave others to pick up the pieces ? .. sheesh.
 

LostKiwi

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Unfortunately many buy MBs but can't afford the maintenance hence they get neglected.
Have you fitted the cam sensor oil blockers?
 

Dean Fletcher

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Money pits indeed. My E250 has cost me over £2000 within 3 years of ownership. The latest issue I kept getting was dpf pressure sensor and exhaust temp sensor bank 1. Last year i had the pressure sensor changed and 1 o2 sensor. Then 5 months later the other o2 sensor came up so I had that change at over 200 quid then 2 days later the code comes up again. My indy found the ECU plug was dirty he cleaned it the all was good for 5 weeks l. Then last week same again I fiddled with the plug and it's been fine since. ****** cars.
 
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clk2000

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Hi LostKiwi and Dean

Firstly .. I don't believe this car has had the cam sensor oil blockers, but someone had the good sense to have the electrical connector facing 7 o clock position and it has the wiring loom headed towards the top of the engine, so at least gravity doesn't carry the oil along the harness (thank god) and this is the reason the connector was half full .. the oil has nowhere to go and just created an oil bath.

Ouch Dean !! I feel your pain .. I really do. Just as well you found out about the ECU plug. I would hate to think what it would cost you to keep going back for diags, not to mention "some" mechanics who would probably tell you "Your thung filing spanner grommet is defective" and charge you the earth to replace things that never needed replacing.

I also found out after purchase, that the previous owner removed the Engine Management bulb. He must have got sick of the bulb draining the battery cos it was on so much hahaha
 
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LostKiwi

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Money pits indeed. My E250 has cost me over £2000 within 3 years of ownership. The latest issue I kept getting was dpf pressure sensor and exhaust temp sensor bank 1. Last year i had the pressure sensor changed and 1 o2 sensor. Then 5 months later the other o2 sensor came up so I had that change at over 200 quid then 2 days later the code comes up again. My indy found the ECU plug was dirty he cleaned it the all was good for 5 weeks l. Then last week same again I fiddled with the plug and it's been fine since. ****** cars.
From the other side of the fence my 3 MBs have cost in total (excluding fuel and consumables) around £2000 between them in 4 years.
Major costs were:
R129 central locking pump (£200)
R129 engine wiring harness (£500)
R129 rear window (£300)
W210 Aircon compressor (£300)
W210 radiator (£300)
W210 battery (£75)
Misc bits and pieces and oils account for about another £300.

I'd not call that expensive across 2 X V8s and a V6.
 

McDonald

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From the other side of the fence my 3 MBs have cost in total (excluding fuel and consumables) around £2000 between them in 4 years.
Major costs were:
R129 central locking pump (£200)
R129 engine wiring harness (£500)
R129 rear window (£300)
W210 Aircon compressor (£300)
W210 radiator (£300)
W210 battery (£75)
Misc bits and pieces and oils account for about another £300.

I'd not call that expensive across 2 X V8s and a V6.

No reported costs on the R230. We should post these uplifting stats more often. I read so much about the disasters awaiting me.
 

LostKiwi

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No reported costs on the R230. We should post these uplifting stats more often. I read so much about the disasters awaiting me.
None reported because there haven't been any (but was too scared to say out loud...)
 

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said it before and i will say it again, Mercedes are unreliable due to sites like this one !!!!!
I will expand, people do not come on this site to say how fantastic their Mercedes is and that it has cost nothing in their ownership, people come to sites like this because they have a problem with their car.
I have to admit, i frighten myself every time i read through issues people are having and then expect my own Mercedes to have the same fault, and i start to look for faults that are not there, just because i read someone had this issue, or that issue.
The "M" class was really slated due to what was seen as poor production and reliability, but how many people had one that never went wrong ?, we will never know because they will not post information like that, i suspect it is true of the entire range.

Opps, Rant over, back to normal (what ever that is)
 


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