The saga is almost over - 2005, C220 CDI Classic SE, S203.208 (Estate), OM646.963 Engine

[d215yq]

Isn't it "Season 5" next year...???


I have to say, and this is only my personal opinion, I am surprised that all this work, money and effort was put into an old, obviously un-maintained Diesel with near as dammit a quarter of a million miles on the clock...

Ten out of ten for perseverance if nothing else!

Easy to say, but circumstance can take over. I did the same with my beaten up 200k miles neglected 1987 300D when I bought it 5 years ago. Bought for 300 and spent 600 to fix all problems, which got me to the UK where I was working for just a short term 6 month contract...and during my stay it needed 1500 more - as I couldn't find another spanish regd car easily here I spent that so it owed me nearly 2,8K with 1 year's ownership including purchase price and I hated it for that and wanted rid...

Well 4 years on from those bills it's now on 300k miles (does over 20k a year), takes me back and forth to UK 2 or 3 x a year, has only needed annual fluid/filter change, an alternator, tyres and brakes, and leaky fuel hoses, and tie rods, which as its old I didnt mind doing myself (I fixed all of that except one tie rod because I couldn't undo it) - so about 800€ in maintenance for 80k miles, never failed an MOT (though it gets a fair few advisories), genuine 50mpg on a run. Cheapest motoring ever.

So maybe the OP will have similar luck once it passes the MOT (which it doesn't look like it will be too hard to achieve) and starts getting used properly and regularly..

 

[NBurns]

Wheel bearings are taper roller. They are adjustable, and it's an easy job.
Headlamp beam adjustment is also a straightforward job,
And the front brake binding should be a simple strip down and clean up.
The above three items will not cost you, except time.

Is your's an Estate? The saloons didn't have headlamp levelling, as I recall. This could also be a simple job - depending what has failed.

Yes it is an estate umblecumbuz. Now that I've got over the initial shock, I believe you are correct and that most of these I can do myself. Considering what I've done so far.



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[NBurns]

Isn't it "Season 5" next year...???


I have to say, and this is only my personal opinion, I am surprised that all this work, money and effort was put into an old, obviously un-maintained Diesel with near as dammit a quarter of a million miles on the clock...

Ten out of ten for perseverance if nothing else!

Yes I'll be charging you to watch season 5!!!
And yes I know I know re the maintenance side. Huge lesson learnt. I've a stupid idiot not looking after her. Especially as she is lovely to drive.



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[NBurns]

If it's like the 210 the headlight levelling (assuming it's the manual type) is vacuum driven so likely a pipe disconnected or split.

Either that or a connection somewhere. So yes, I'm sure I can fix that myself.



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[NBurns]

Easy to say, but circumstance can take over. I did the same with my beaten up 200k miles neglected 1987 300D when I bought it 5 years ago. Bought for 300 and spent 600 to fix all problems, which got me to the UK where I was working for just a short term 6 month contract...and during my stay it needed 1500 more - as I couldn't find another spanish regd car easily here I spent that so it owed me nearly 2,8K with 1 year's ownership including purchase price and I hated it for that and wanted rid...

Well 4 years on from those bills it's now on 300k miles (does over 20k a year), takes me back and forth to UK 2 or 3 x a year, has only needed annual fluid/filter change, an alternator, tyres and brakes, and leaky fuel hoses, and tie rods, which as its old I didnt mind doing myself (I fixed all of that except one tie rod because I couldn't undo it) - so about 800€ in maintenance for 80k miles, never failed an MOT (though it gets a fair few advisories), genuine 50mpg on a run. Cheapest motoring ever.

So maybe the OP will have similar luck once it passes the MOT (which it doesn't look like it will be too hard to achieve) and starts getting used properly and regularly..

You've just made me feel a whole lot better already. I was hoping to be "Driving home for Christmas....." though. My cat hasn't seen me for over a week now.


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[Trev1964]

You're very nearly there...

 

[NBurns]

So glad my doctor put me on double anti depressants.



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[AMGeed]

Chin up Robbie. Get the issues sorted one by one and have faith. She'll pass when you take her back.
Have a great Christmas

 

[NBurns]

Chin up Robbie. Get the issues sorted one by one and have faith. She'll pass when you take her back.
Have a great Christmas

You have a great Christmas bud. I will be glad to see it all over quickly. And I need to get home somehow.



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[Blobcat]

You have a great Christmas bud. I will be glad to see it all over quickly. And I need to get home somehow.



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Guess you won't be following Chris Rea's advice this year...

 

[LostKiwi]

Of the fail items only one may cost money. Be careful adjusting wheel bearings. There should be a tiny amount of play. If over tightened they can seize and weld themselves onto the stub axle.
Does your car gave xenon (HiD) lights? If not I don't think headlight levelling is a fail...?

 

[umblecumbuz]

If it has zenons, then it will not have the three position adjuster on the dashboard. Very much doubt zenons fitted.
As LK said earlier, your's is vacuum operated, and a very simple system. It usually fails only if there's a leak in the vacuum pipework - otherwise it rarely gives trouble.

I had my adjuster moved on my last Mot (different car, similar system), so presumably this is something they now test.
As my garage owner says, 'If it's there, it's tested.'

 

[LostKiwi]

If it has zenons, then it will not have the three position adjuster on the dashboard. Very much doubt zenons fitted.
As LK said earlier, your's is vacuum operated, and a very simple system. It usually fails only if there's a leak in the vacuum pipework - otherwise it rarely gives trouble.

I had my adjuster moved on my last Mot (different car, similar system), so presumably this is something they now test.
As my garage owner says, 'If it's there, it's tested.'

Which means remove the dial adjuster and it can't be tested

 

[NBurns]

Guess you won't be following Chris Rea's advice this year...

Sadly not. Looks like it will be public transport.



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[NBurns]

Of the fail items only one may cost money. Be careful adjusting wheel bearings. There should be a tiny amount of play. If over tightened they can seize and weld themselves onto the stub axle.
Does your car gave xenon (HiD) lights? If not I don't think headlight levelling is a fail...?

No. Just normal halogen.
Okay. That's interesting. I will look into that.
Thank you



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[umblecumbuz]

Which means remove the dial adjuster and it can't be tested

Interesting, that.
One car has a towbar. My friendly Mot garage told me to put tape over the electric socket on the towbar and they will not test the socket, because they are not allowed to remove the tape.
Opens up a lot of possibilities!

 

[Jim2]

Chin up, you are on the home stretch now with a definite list of fault's to eliminate, and they are all "doable", and shouldn't break the bank!!! We are all rooting for you at this stage, so just do it !!!

 

[d215yq]

Interesting, that.
One car has a towbar. My friendly Mot garage told me to put tape over the electric socket on the towbar and they will not test the socket, because they are not allowed to remove the tape.
Opens up a lot of possibilities!

Also they only have to see a car without warning lights to pass it so we get my mother's Yaris passed (EML alwasy on but no other problems) by disconnecting the battery for 12h so it forgets the parameters. It then passes the test (though runs a bit rough) while it learns the parameters again, and then usually on the way back from the test the light came back on. The tester said even if the light came on through the test as long as he's seen it running and noted that part down then it is not a fail if the light comes back on. So, to be sure, he always does the check for engine warning light the moment we drive it in.

It's ridiculous that they added all this non safety stuff in to the UK MOT anyway. Here in Spain, if the car works and isn't dangerous it will basically get a pass. They note for example the rust around the jacking points on mine as an advisory, they said the jacking points aren't going to totally collapse as the sills all around are perfectly fine and it's just the tube where the fcatory jack goes that is rusty, so as it's not unsafe to jack up the car and the car has good enough sills to not fall in half they are not going to fail it and will continue to not fail it. I remember my old UK regd W124 estate failed the MOT because there was rust within 12 inches of where the headlight was mounted or some other nonsense!

 

[NBurns]

Chin up, you are on the home stretch now with a definite list of fault's to eliminate, and they are all "doable", and shouldn't break the bank!!! We are all rooting for you at this stage, so just do it !!!

thank you. Will do!!!


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[NBurns]

If it's like the 210 the headlight levelling (assuming it's the manual type) is vacuum driven so likely a pipe disconnected or split.

Okay. Have had a closer look at this system now. Behind the dial beside the steering wheel there are a purple and a gray tube. The purple tube appears to be going to a round plastic module on both head light assemblies. I worked out that these can both be removed by simply twisting them towards the engine. And then it looks like a gearing system inside the assembly to move the lights up or down. The round plastic module appears to have a screw mechanism that engages with the gearing mechanism to then adjust the lights. Now, having removed both of them an noting their positions i then tested the system. Neither had moved. So now i am wondering where the grey tube goes to. Anyone know and also how this system works?



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