The supercharger on my CLK 200 KOMPRESSOR W208 stops working and the car loses power

Eaton_Fed

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While I'm driving the supercharger just stops working and the car loses power and after a couple hundred feet it starts working again and the power is back, it does the same thing over and over again.
The car is a 1999 CLK 200 KOMPRESSOR W208
Any help is appreciated, thanks!
 

John Laidlaw

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Hmm, how long has this been happening?
Could be any of these:-
MAF
Air pipes under the Kompressor leaking
The Cam sensor magnet filling with oil (shouldn't be near there but leaks can get in), or
Air bypass valve
Needs a specialist diagnostic to really find out...
 

LostKiwi

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As John says it could be many things. Do you get any warning lights?
A code reader would possibly show up the area failing. Note you cannot get reliable information from generic code readers - they really need to be MB specific ones (STAR, iCarsoft i980, iCarsoft MB-II, Autel equivalents of those or Carsoft (as opposed to iCarsoft)).
 
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Eaton_Fed

Eaton_Fed

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Hmm, how long has this been happening?
Could be any of these:-
MAF
Air pipes under the Kompressor leaking
The Cam sensor magnet filling with oil (shouldn't be near there but leaks can get in), or
Air bypass valve
Needs a specialist diagnostic to really find out...

Thank you so much for your time and help I very much appreciate it! It happened yesterday while driving, no warning lights or anything just sudden power loss and there's no supercharger sound until it starts working again. Also I just checked and there's oil under the engine which wasn't there before because I keep everything clean.
 
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Eaton_Fed

Eaton_Fed

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As John says it could be many things. Do you get any warning lights?
A code reader would possibly show up the area failing. Note you cannot get reliable information from generic code readers - they really need to be MB specific ones (STAR, iCarsoft i980, iCarsoft MB-II, Autel equivalents of those or Carsoft (as opposed to iCarsoft)).
Yes sir my mechanic didn't have a proper code reader so I need to find someone else to take it to. And thank you for your time and help I appreciate it!
 

LostKiwi

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If you have oil under the car trace where its coming from. If it gets on the supercharger belt it can cause it to slip.
 
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Eaton_Fed

Eaton_Fed

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If you have oil under the car trace where its coming from. If it gets on the supercharger belt it can cause it to slip.
Yes definitely oil's bad, I just can't figure out where it's coming from I need to lift the car up and remove the protective plastic that's under the engine but can't do anything until I get it to a mechanic.
 

Wighty

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The Eaton part of your username is the same as most makes of supercharger .....spooky :shock:
 
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Eaton_Fed

Eaton_Fed

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The Eaton part of your username is the same as most makes of supercharger .....spooky :shock:
Eaton is the company that made the Roots Type blower for the Supercharged cars for Mercedes. That's why these cars consume soo much fuel in order to squeeze out the most performance out of the engine.
 

Submariner1

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Yes sir my mechanic didn't have a proper code reader so I need to find someone else to take it to. And thank you for your time and help I appreciate it!

I may be wrong regarding a 1999 CLK ... not sure when OBD11 came out, but I feel its essential for a mechanic to have STAR to look after a Mercedes, other than maybe a classic.
Knowing what is faulty should cut your diagnostics bill and avoid replacing the wrong parts
And he can check he has done it properly.

I have used 3 Indys and all were superb ... all had full STAR equipment.
Hell I even have MBII!
 

LostKiwi

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1999 cars have the 38 pin round connector and are at best OBD1.
This makes the range of diagnostic readers somewhat limited.
STAR and Carsoft (note NOT iCarsoft!)are pretty much about it.
 

Arudge

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I think i'd go with the slipping belt as well. Supercharger oil smells awful, so if you can find a bit of your leaked oil and it smells really bad then you've blown the supercharger snout seal. The oil is very important and there's very little of it, you can't afford to loose much when there's less than 100 ml's to start with.

Try and keep you RPM down below 3000 revs until you get a better idea of whats going on.

The oil is freely available albiet a pain the:eek: to fill but the internal gear set will destroy itself without it.

And get the proper oil, it has to work in a very aggressive environment, you can't use a bit of EP90!!
 


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