Torque Converter Fluid Change

Parf

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Hi all,

I recently done a transmission fluid change on my 722.6 gearbox. At the time i wasnt aware the TC had its own drain plug.

I changed the fluid by taking the sump off and i did wonder why it only took 4.5 litres, now i know.

My question is does the TC have its own fill plug? Is it possible to now just drain the TC and change the fluid in there or does it share it with the gearbox?

Thanks
 

V6Matty

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Is this for your 209? If so then no I believe they did away with the drain plug on the TC a few years prior to that, I know I’m my previous 211 it didn’t have one.
 

umblecumbuz

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For a complete atf change, you would need to drain the sump, the torque convertor and the cooler radiator with associated pipework. All three are interconnected.
I believe since 2004 or thereabouts, the torque convertor drain plug was not fitted to 722.6 boxes.

Some remove the banjo bolt on the gearbox side to help with draining the cooler radiator. Some fill and empty more than once to help reduce the percentage of old atf in the system. Some part-fill after initially draining, then run the engine for a minute or two with the banjo bolt removed, which allows the pump to partially flush the system, before refilling.

Plenty of videos show all these methods.
 

AnthonyUK

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The fluid is going to be mixed up now so I would change what is in the sump by using an extractor and replacing it.
You won't have 100% clean fluid but it is still going to improve things. Changing fluid twice like this is a decent compromise IMO.
I have changed 1/2 the fluid like you and will replace again soon but even with just this amount changed I notice a difference.
 

M80

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If it's running smooth with good changes I would plan another service in perhaps 25k miles.
While what you have done isn't comprehensive it will have improved the ATF content.

The only way to know if your TC has a drain is to remove the inspection cover and rotate. Mark the TC with a chalk line so you know it's done a full rev.
They were still fitting drain plugs on the 722.6 Vitos till 2009, at least.

Oh and your question, the ATF for cooler, TC, and gearbox are all filled from the one point, that you must have replaced the 4.5 litres at already.
 
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Wighty

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Changed my CLK sump yesterday , just got a new drain plug and washer . I'll be changing the sump again today . That will do me for another couple of years until I next change the filter .
I must admit I tend to drop the sump ATF every year , just because 4L of Fuchs Atf4134 is only £28 on eBay
 

thebiglad

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Changed my CLK sump yesterday , just got a new drain plug and washer . I'll be changing the sump again today . That will do me for another couple of years until I next change the filter .
I must admit I tend to drop the sump ATF every year , just because 4L of Fuchs Atf4134 is only £28 on eBay
Hi Wighty, in my 2005 CLK 270 cdi I've recently had 1 or 2 very small odd behaviours with the 5 speed auto so I'm thinking about replacing the oil and filter. A couple of questions please :

1. Do I drain from the sump plug or suck out from the top (I will need to buy a vacuum tank affair for that);

2. When refilling, how do I know how much to put in? I bought a dipstick and I'm assuming I put in 2 or 3 ltrs with the engine at rest, then start the engine, cycle through the gear positions then back into P, put in about 1.5 ltrs and measure with the dipstick to get the correct level. Some people say that I should measure how much comes out and refill with that amount - but how do I know if it had the correct amount or not?

3. Got any suggestions or links for a supplier of sump gasket/bolts/filter kit plus the correct oil?
 

pgh13

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Drain through the sump plug; your going to need to remove it to change filter. I bought Smith and Allen oil - about £80 for 20l on eBay, so plenty for flushing. They're are plenty of gasket and filter set on there too. I got a Vaico one which includes the connector bush, but not the sump washer.
 

John Laidlaw

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Hi Wighty, in my 2005 CLK 270 cdi I've recently had 1 or 2 very small odd behaviours with the 5 speed auto so I'm thinking about replacing the oil and filter. A couple of questions please :

1. Do I drain from the sump plug or suck out from the top (I will need to buy a vacuum tank affair for that);

2. When refilling, how do I know how much to put in? I bought a dipstick and I'm assuming I put in 2 or 3 ltrs with the engine at rest, then start the engine, cycle through the gear positions then back into P, put in about 1.5 ltrs and measure with the dipstick to get the correct level. Some people say that I should measure how much comes out and refill with that amount - but how do I know if it had the correct amount or not?

3. Got any suggestions or links for a supplier of sump gasket/bolts/filter kit plus the correct oil?
Opie Oils are a sponsor on here and will supply all you need...
 

Wighty

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Hi Wighty, in my 2005 CLK 270 cdi I've recently had 1 or 2 very small odd behaviours with the 5 speed auto so I'm thinking about replacing the oil and filter. A couple of questions please :

1. Do I drain from the sump plug or suck out from the top (I will need to buy a vacuum tank affair for that);

2. When refilling, how do I know how much to put in? I bought a dipstick and I'm assuming I put in 2 or 3 ltrs with the engine at rest, then start the engine, cycle through the gear positions then back into P, put in about 1.5 ltrs and measure with the dipstick to get the correct level. Some people say that I should measure how much comes out and refill with that amount - but how do I know if it had the correct amount or not?

3. Got any suggestions or links for a supplier of sump gasket/bolts/filter kit plus the correct oil?
As pgh says above , drain through the sump plug as you will be removing the sump anyway for the filter .
As for oil , it needs to meet 236.14 MB spec . I use Fuchs atf4134 (eBay £55 8L ) in both cars and have for a few years so I stick with that choice .
Filter and gasket on eBay from MB dealers are £24 ish . Get yourself a 5g 722.6 dipstick from eBay for only a few quid which will allow you an accurate oil level check (hot, level ground, engine running in Park) .
I've not changed a connector which can be slightly fiddly , and I'm sure member old spanners mentioned that you can just change the O rings even if you don't change the connector .
To do a full flush , not just sump you need to drain the TC (3.5L oil)and oil cooler (1L) . You can for an 80% change just refill the sump with oil , cycle the gears then drain again before you drop the sump to do the filter .
The 5g is pretty easy (compared to the 7g which I found stressful) .
May be worth getting new sump bolts in case they are rusty , and a new sump drain bolt and washer as well .
 


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