Tweeter wiring connection question? and Tweeter removal?

Submariner1

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To eliminate the possibility that my intermittant Amp problem, is in fact a bad speaker connection. I was going to replace it and any local wiring connectors in the tweeter pod.

I looked up the parts on EPC and found the tweeters ... for left and right door, and two
“Socket Housing Tweeter 2-Pin MQS # A0305452828” (couldnt make them out on EPC diagrams.
Per google these look like these.
6865F5B1-4A83-4A00-89DC-EAEF65127F5C.jpeg
I assume these can be opened up and changed?
Has Anyone changed / worked with these style connectors? Just checking they are not moulded on connectors?

It also says there are 2 other tiny parts ( one per door) called:-
“REP.SET Contact 0.75mm2 MQS”
I couldn't find these on Google, are they replacement metal bullets to crimp / solder onto the 2 wires?

I would really prefer not to have to solder onto the wiring harness.
Just doing my pre-removal research, as to what I need to buy before undoing trim parts.

WIS says use a long wedge to undo the Mirror Triangle Cover.
On ebay it looks like this ...
3E28D3A3-7B13-4D62-99D2-8611E8298B47.jpeg

Am I correct to assume one just prises out the single clip (with the triangular wedged head) Near the top i.e. its not one you bend either way ... but just apply outward pressure as near to the pin part, as one can guess i.e. pull it outward and then lift up the tweeter pod to release the two flanges at the bottom ?
 

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Submariner1

Submariner1

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LostKiwi

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The connector is crimped or soldered to the wire. They are placed in the housing you posted an then clamped using the clip. The flap is only there as a way to assemble the complete plug.
 
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Submariner1

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The connector is crimped or soldered to the wire. They are placed in the housing you posted an then clamped using the clip. The flap is only there as a way to assemble the complete plug.

Thanks so much.
I guess the other little part called the “REP.SET Contact” ( that I cant find an image of) is the bit the wire is crimped or soldered to?

So in summary a bit fiddly to change these .

I guess these are cheap enough to order to see exactly how they are connected and have to hand when the tweeter is out.

I wonder how much damage is occurring whenever it is distorting, luckily so far it has never dropped a connection in full swing, and only plays up whenever you start music.
So I am now ending a journey by turning the sound to its lowest level.

So when the sound system starts, it doesn't blast out distorted sound. And of course turning it completely down the minute any distortion occurs.
 
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LostKiwi

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Thanks so much.
I guess the other little part called the “REP.SET Contact” ( that I cant find an image of) is the bit the wire is crimped or soldered to?

So in summary a bit fiddly to change these .
Correct. Its the terminal pins.
 
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Submariner1

Submariner1

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Correct. Its the terminal pins.

I will get them as well, just in case.

Just tried the sound system, all working perfectly.
But possibly this tweeter now isn't quite as clear as the good one. But the difference is so small , almost impossible to discern, it could just have been that CD or more likely the reverse placebo effect LOL.

So now this is 3 full days since I smacked it .... with no failures??
 
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Submariner1

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Day 5 and its is still working perfectly, since I SLAPPED THE TWEETER POD HARD!

:-0
 

crippo2

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........ two “Socket Housing Tweeter 2-Pin MQS # A0305452828” ......
These parts are made by Tyco for MB
The corresponding mating socket is part number 0335456728 and the male/female crimp plugs/sockets are respectively 0325453928 and 0085455526.
levering up the plastic locking lid will release the pins allowing their removal (with difficulty) I remember they are still held in place with a small protruding tine on each pin.
So with one hand, having released the plastic locking lid, you hold the outer plastic housing, with your other hand, using a jeweler's screw driver, you press down on the tine to release its grip on the housing and with your third hand you pull gently on the cable attached to the connector - hoping, of course, that when you pull the wire it does not separate from the connector leaving it in the housing.

The rear face of each plastic housing is numbered 1 & 2, to assist in correct polarity on reassembly.
I have no idea how these connectors mate with your tweeters

MB sell the parts - they, or some of them, are used in the CAN-BUS connectors.
 
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Submariner1

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These parts are made by Tyco for MB
The corresponding mating socket is part number 0335456728 and the male/female crimp plugs/sockets are respectively 0325453928 and 0085455526.
levering up the plastic locking lid will release the pins allowing their removal (with difficulty) I remember they are still held in place with a small protruding tine on each pin.
So with one hand, having released the plastic locking lid, you hold the outer plastic housing, with your other hand, using a jeweler's screw driver, you press down on the tine to release its grip on the housing and with your third hand you pull gently on the cable attached to the connector - hoping, of course, that when you pull the wire it does not separate from the connector leaving it in the housing.

The rear face of each plastic housing is numbered 1 & 2, to assist in correct polarity on reassembly.
I have no idea how these connectors mate with your tweeters

MB sell the parts - they, or some of them, are used in the CAN-BUS connectors.

Thanks for the very useful info.
Much appreciated
 
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Submariner1

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Day 7 since slapping the offending distorting tweeter.
All sound works perfectly.

Could my Amp problem have just been a shorting tweeter or a failing tweeter voice coil.
Does seem like a HUGE coincidence.

Previously it was failing daily or bi daily.

As it's so cold I am in no rush.
But if the sound system continues to work, I will just get a STAR check, and then change the tweeter, as it was either problematic or no doubt suffered at the hands of the distortion ... worth it for £28 ... just peace of mind thing.
 
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Submariner1

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Picked up the tweeter connector block A030 545 2828 (seems pretty straightforward, plugs into the tweeters male pins, after inserting the female end of the lead into the connector block)
2E610DEE-2127-470F-8A93-C2AE3F2BAB0A.jpeg
and the REP.SET contact. A000 540 4605 this was not in an MB bag but loose.
F445A22A-C75C-4F4E-83EF-970EB3B31CBD.jpeg
It looks more like a partial wiring harness kit.

Q. Should this Rep.Set not have come with 2 leads i.e. one positive and one negative? Or one labelled 1 and the other labelled 2?
(NB this wire is labelled 2 on the cable in blue, note on the end of the connector block there are 2 square holes for the female end of this cable .... one is labelled 1 and the other labelled 2.

Just asked as it came loose with no MB plastic labelled bag.

Q. How is one supposed to connect this part (mini wiring harness) to the existing wiring , i.e. if I take off the door card (I would rather not) will I then find some other female plastic or metal connector to put this pin end in.
Or
Is one meant to just Cut off the exisiting female connector and solder / crimp this on the end.

Interested if anyone has experience of how MB address these wiring repair sets.

If it is a solder job, and if that pin comes out then one could cut this in half and have a positive and negative
Female terminated wire.... sadly both labelled No.2 though.
 

crippo2

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Picked up the tweeter connector block A030 545 2828 (seems pretty straightforward, plugs into the tweeters male pins, after inserting the female end of the lead into the connector block)
View attachment 41696
and the REP.SET contact. A000 540 4605 this was not in an MB bag but loose.
View attachment 41697
It looks more like a partial wiring harness kit.

Q. Should this Rep.Set not have come with 2 leads i.e. one positive and one negative? Or one labelled 1 and the other labelled 2?
(NB this wire is labelled 2 on the cable in blue, note on the end of the connector block there are 2 square holes for the female end of this cable .... one is labelled 1 and the other labelled 2.

Just asked as it came loose with no MB plastic labelled bag.

Q. How is one supposed to connect this part (mini wiring harness) to the existing wiring , i.e. if I take off the door card (I would rather not) will I then find some other female plastic or metal connector to put this pin end in.
Or
Is one meant to just Cut off the exisiting female connector and solder / crimp this on the end.

Interested if anyone has experience of how MB address these wiring repair sets.

If it is a solder job, and if that pin comes out then one could cut this in half and have a positive and negative
Female terminated wire.... sadly both labelled No.2 though.

You may be over thinking this. Can you not buy a replacement tweeter - which will come with the appropriate connector and just plug it into your existing wiring? Than should tell you if it is the wiring or the tweeter or the inline (presumably) capacitor.
I presume it to be a capacitor rather than a choke, but I do not know the setup that MB use and cannot tell from your pictures.

You can also try your existing tweeter using a simple audio input.
You can test the capacitor for goodness (ESR; leakage, Capacity etc)

If it is the wiring, then you may have to furkle (technical term) about a bit to find it (intermittent open or short to something else) Do this after disconnecting the tweeter from the amp and, if used, any crossover network. Again I do not know the MB setup here.

whatever you do with the wiring, the plug, the connectors, the capacitor and the tweeter remember to retain the correct polarities. In particular speakers should always blow or suck together.

As to the new wire you have, then yes there should be 2 female crimp connectors to fit into the housing. I suspect the wire is 'universal' - so male crimp connector on one end and female on the other - useful for more than 1 job. in which case, yes cut off the unwanted end. However it may be the male end fits into another, as yet unexposed, connector in the door bundling all audio cabling together. So do not be too hasty in cutting bits off it!.
 
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Submariner1

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You may be over thinking this. Can you not buy a replacement tweeter - which will come with the appropriate connector and just plug it into your existing wiring? Than should tell you if it is the wiring or the tweeter or the inline (presumably) capacitor.
I presume it to be a capacitor rather than a choke, but I do not know the setup that MB use and cannot tell from your pictures.

You can also try your existing tweeter using a simple audio input.
You can test the capacitor for goodness (ESR; leakage, Capacity etc)

If it is the wiring, then you may have to furkle (technical term) about a bit to find it (intermittent open or short to something else) Do this after disconnecting the tweeter from the amp and, if used, any crossover network. Again I do not know the MB setup here.

whatever you do with the wiring, the plug, the connectors, the capacitor and the tweeter remember to retain the correct polarities. In particular speakers should always blow or suck together.

As to the new wire you have, then yes there should be 2 female crimp connectors to fit into the housing. I suspect the wire is 'universal' - so male crimp connector on one end and female on the other - useful for more than 1 job. in which case, yes cut off the unwanted end. However it may be the male end fits into another, as yet unexposed, connector in the door bundling all audio cabling together. So do not be too hasty in cutting bits off it!.

Thanks
I was holding off buying the new tweeter, until I was sure it was not the amp, ( and get a Star check done when it next plays up) as distorted sound kills tweeters fairly quickly.

I will order the wiring part again just to make sure if it should have come with 2 wires ... if only to get one labelled No1. So the wiring identification is maintained as std. in the vehicle.

Yep retaining the polarity is paramount, because if that green item is a capacitor, that should go on the positvie side to ensure it is a high pass.
Reversal would not only put the tweeter out of sync with the system, but would also splat full range frequency straight into the tweeter ... not good :(

I get the bit in your reply, that one could cut this wiring part in two and thus get a wire for negative and positive.
I was hoping someone, who had done this, could advise me if buried behind the door card is the female to connect this mini harness into. If there was, then its worth removing the door card just to keep everything bog std.
But I would prefer not to remove the door card if there is no female connector , and just solder this end onto the existing harness.

No rush to do (outside) it in this weather! And yes day 8 and still working :)
 


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