Upgrading 2003 CLK audio/phone

AnthonyUK

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I’d invest in some trim tools and probably go up the A pillar and behind the trim over the door and rear window before making my way into the boot.

I went along the step channel but it is 6 of 1 etc.

Looking at the wheel buttons, there is a setting on the last page of the factory settings and whether on or off makes no difference to me. The buttons still work.
There is a Wheelkeystudy app and also wheelkey options in the Car menu also in settings. All of these are empty for me.

Other than the steering wheel control, other canbus related functions work such as lights coming on with headlights?
I set the led lights colour to match the rest of the panel lights for consistency.
 
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MH MB

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Well update from Esrin was not overly helpfull (although to be fair the vid they send shows what "should" happen) links below

https://workupload.com/file/U79GCzc4
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TeYIYluq1hf6_NFQOt6sqjC7Qb5UF2tz/view?usp=sharing

In terms of can bus that works, backup cam when I shift into reverse and the call pickup button on the steering wheel are the only bits I can be sure of. I think the lights worked but will check that tonight. I did double check by putting the old kit back in and it worked fine with the controls. Only thing I am thinking is that there may have been something hard-wired for the original parrot installation done years ago that may be interfering/overriding.

Have had fun tweaking some of the setting getting Waze up as default Nav default music apps etc really like the unit just the pesky steering wheel keys that are letting me down. If I have to get a voltmeter out I think that's a sign I have reached my engineering limits.

Thanks again for the support all, it's really appreciated.

On a separate note - I hit a pothole last night at a bit of speed and the roll bar/headrests engaged. After a bit of poking about in this forum and a couple of youtube vids I managed to get them back down without the toolkit and the button reset . I managed to use a long a latte spoon (now part of my incar "toolkit") to put pressure on the switch so I could push them back down in place and close the roof. Without this site I would have had a real headache :):)
 

AnthonyUK

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It appears in the video that they are doing what is mentioned in this thread on XDA

https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...units/wheelkey-study-canbus-problems-t3519364

Without a repeatable electrical resistance from an aftermarket interface the radio was confused, and defaulted to this Reset/Save screen. I was able to get back to the "learning" screen by putting a 10 ohm resistor across Key1 and SWC_GND after I selected Steering Wheel Keys in the Settings menu.

The unit itself being vehicle specific is using CANBUS for SWC but it can also read the analogue method of resistance matrices. I wonder if yours is getting confused between the two. I don't think the CANBUS settings can be overridden without disconnecting the CANBUS input.
Does yours have an integrated CANBUS decoder or is there an external box?
The external boxes often have DIP switches for increased compatibility.
 
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MH MB

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Morning !

It has an integrated one I believe with the standard 3 iso looms going into their converter only 2 dims on the back HU

One thing that has just occurred to me is I don't have that loom plugged into the head unit could there be an issue with that.

My gut is telling me there is something conflicting with the native support either from the app or something else that's "getting in the way"

Have chased Erisin again this am see what they come back with
 

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AnthonyUK

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One thing that has just occurred to me is I don't have that loom plugged into the head unit could there be an issue with that.

You have the cabled labeled as 14 connected? I guess so as nothing should work without it e.g. reversing cam.
I have neither of the two looms labeled 1-13 fitted as they are not needed.
I have fitted some that require 13 to power the aerial amp e.g W245 B class.
 
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Hmm maybe the cable 14 is the key.

I'm only plugging in the iso sockets into the HU as per the vids here https://workupload.com/archive/fRvHJLA

Working as expected on audio 10 but only get phone pick up/down from the steering wheel when I put the Erisin unit in.

Will tinker a little more but I think I am missing somthing..

Thanks as allways :)
 

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AnthonyUK

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Will tinker a little more but I think I am missing somthing..

The fact that you are seeing button icons in Wheelkeystudy would suggest the unit is not get any CANBUS data (cable 14).
In the Erisin video you uploaded you can see how it should look before he shorts out the SWC1/2 cable (cable 8 in the earlier pic).

I don't know how the unit is detecting the phone buttons unless you have any of the cables 1-13 connected.
The CANBUS feed 14 is all that is needed for reversing signal, lighting, SWC etc.


I have neither of the two looms labeled 1-13 fitted as they are not needed.
Correction. I am using 7 for rear cam obviously doh, so sorry about that.
 
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I'm not sure where to go from here, I don't have anything plugged in for cable 14 but I can't find anything to plug it "into"

Totally baffled as to how the phone buttons work and reverse cam kicks in with out it (maybe somthing residual from the original parrot installation)

Gonna dig some more but to confirm (more for my own sanity)

I have

3 isos going into the "converter loom" that then goes into the HU.

I have the other peripherals going in GPS antenna mic etc all working fine

I don't have anything to connect the female end of the can a3 a4 into

..... The "fun" continues
 

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AnthonyUK

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That left most connector with brown and brown/red cables is the canbus.
Where do the two green cables from the adapter loom currently go?
 
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That left most connector with brown and brown/red cables is the canbus.
Where do the two green cables from the adapter loom currently go?

Thanks, they disappear into the chassis, will try and track it back further.. is it worth tring to tap into them and connecting to 14 feed?
 

AnthonyUK

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Thanks, they disappear into the chassis, will try and track it back further.. is it worth tring to tap into them and connecting to 14 feed?

I would take that connector out and connect it into the adapter for 14.
What is that adapter that it is currently connected for?
 
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I would take that connector out and connect it into the adapter for 14.
What is that adapter that it is currently connected for?

Connects to the bottom ISO curently will finish watching the tennis and give it a go!
 
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Well I think I must be in the can bus with the 2 brown wires that were going into the bottom of the loom converter. That said it did flash up a roof error and another workshop error when I tapped into the 2 wires and fed into 14

While not what I expected seems a progress... Could it be erisin didn't send the correct cable (bottom brown isos to the small connector)

Will tap in to the wires more securely and let ya know
 

AnthonyUK

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Connects to the bottom ISO curently will finish watching the tennis and give it a go!

Is that the ISO supplied with the unit?
Did yours come with more than one type?
If so are you using the right one?

I've just checked and I'm not using either of these cables but the other ISO adapter.

5FE5EDE5-3BB2-4490-B234-EA9C0ABA7C32.jpeg
 
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Yup came with 2 converter looms and I am pretty sure I am i am using the correct one as the other one simply won't fit. Broke into the wires directly and tapped them into the small white connector for 14... And guess what... I get exactly the same behaviour (pickup hangup call are recognised but nothing else) :mad:

Tried it with the din up and down also...

I still feel like either I am missing somthing or there is some sort of conflicting config in the unit.
 

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This is a pic of the converter loom that's doesn't fit .... And 2nd one connected

With a bit of hindsite now... If followed and compared the pin outs on both converter looms and the bottom one looks to defo be the canbus with the 2 wires..
 

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Well it looks like Erisin are giving up on it, I have one last thing to try but looks like my only option is to swap the head unit ...
 

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Well it looks like Erisin are giving up on it, I have one last thing to try but looks like my only option is to swap the head unit ...

Your CLK is going to be a pre facelifted one. The CANBUS communication to the cluster is different between MOST and D2B. Many SWC modules require the cluster to be coded to reflect a different protocol. This requires STAR. Ive had to change a few in the years........
 
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Your CLK is going to be a pre facelifted one. The CANBUS communication to the cluster is different between MOST and D2B. Many SWC modules require the cluster to be coded to reflect a different protocol. This requires STAR. Ive had to change a few in the years........

Many thanks @Alfie although I am pretty sure it's a post face lift model (double yolk lights and curved rear lights etc) pics attached.

I have had to send the unit back for a replacement but is there a better option all together / prework I need to do before starting again?

Really do appreciate everyone's help here :)
 

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thebiglad

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Many thanks @Alfie although I am pretty sure it's a post face lift model (double yolk lights and curved rear lights etc) pics attached.

I have had to send the unit back for a replacement but is there a better option all together / prework I need to do before starting again?

Really do appreciate everyone's help here :)
If the first 3 NUMBERS in your VIN are 209 it's definitely a W209 car, whether that's a facelift car or not I'm not sure. Perhaps someone could tell you with what VIN did the facelift version start ???
 


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