Vibration on ML270CDI

[RichHammond]

Ive had my ML 6 months now and am very pleased with it but of late have noticed especially when first started it seems to vibrate more than it did when I first bought it. This can be felt through the steering wheel and at a certain rev speed the interior dash vibrates with a noise also, like a loose vibrating tingle noise ( if you know what I mean). When warm this is not so noticable, its 3 years old and still under approved used warranty with MB any suggestions?? many thanks.

 

[Blobcat]

Is the vibration present without the car moving, if so it could be the engine mountings on the way out.

 

[RichHammond]

Yes its when moving and when stationary, should the engine mountings be defective so soon?

 

[Blobcat]

No but that doesn't mean they havent failed. Had a Vectra with gas filled engine mountings that failed within 1 yr. Problem was it was hard to diagnose as you could not see that the gas had gone.
Pop the bonnet and see how much the engine is shaking should be a good indication

 

[RichHammond]

Ive just had a look there is a slight vibration on the engine but hardly any movement or shaking. Its more noticable at a higher rev than tick over and when moving which makes the interior ring with vibration and then above that rev limit it stops again.

 

[oigle]

I would have no doubt that it will be engine mounts at fault. I have just had mine replaced for the second time before the expiration of warranty. The improvement is quite dramatic. My ML is just over 3 years old and has done 30000 miles. As to whether they should last longer - they sure should. The Japs can make them last for much longer in their diesels. Same can be said for brake pads and discs. I have already had to replace my rear pads at 25000 miles - ridiculuous. My previous Japanese 4WD still had its original pads and discs at 72000 miles and not worn out. One has to question the quality of some of the componentry Merc use.
Further to the engine mounts, I have been told that it is always the driver's side one that fails first - the engine twists that way under torque and compresses the mount. So if you want to save some money, just do the drivers side (Right Hand Drive) one. Fairly easy to do once the wheel and skirt is removed. Need new "rivets" to reinstate the skirt afterwards.