W124 250 diesel ABS

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EireJames

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In fairness Malcolm you have been more than helpful, I'll report back on Friday evening or Saturday once I have the new OVP fitted :)
 

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In fairness Malcolm you have been more than helpful, I'll report back on Friday evening or Saturday once I have the new OVP fitted :)

Well if you get no luck,just put up the first 6 VIN number so that an exact search can be done
 

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>>the speed signal is used for the ABS and the Rev counter

The engine speed signal doesn't go to the ABS (did you mean EGR?)

Depending upon pump type, the idle speed may also be controlled via the EGR / tachometer controller, which takes its input from the sensor on the flywheel.
 

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>>the speed signal is used for the ABS and the Rev counter

The engine speed signal doesn't go to the ABS (did you mean EGR?)

Depending upon pump type, the idle speed may also be controlled via the EGR / tachometer controller, which takes its input from the sensor on the flywheel.

The 250d does not use a rear CPS as can be seen in the link,,there is no 160 fitted

http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.as...GM=717.413&CT=M&cat=19S&SID=15&SGR=105&SGN=03

Also the rev counter was not standard on the diesel cars, it was an extra,,I do not know about the factory fit off hand,,but for the retro kit you add a CPS to the front damper wheel number 100 in the link
 

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If you have a pnumatic pump on your 250d turn the idle adjuster top rear of pump anti clock wise to make idle faster, if the engine still seems lumpy then I would suggest having your injectors serviced but this will cost at least £150.00. Hope this helps
 

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The 250d does not use a rear CPS as can be seen in the link,,there is no 160 fitted

http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.as...GM=717.413&CT=M&cat=19S&SID=15&SGR=105&SGN=03

Also the rev counter was not standard on the diesel cars, it was an extra,,I do not know about the factory fit off hand,,but for the retro kit you add a CPS to the front damper wheel number 100 in the link

It's part 100 on that slide, assembled with 150, 140, and 105 into the flywheel area.

That's also where my flywheel sensor is on my OM606 - definitely below the starter, rather than above, where 160 looks like it fits.

If there is EGR, then crank speed must be sensed, again, if there's ELR, crank speed must be sensed.
 
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OK there are differences with the add on CPS for the retro.

All of these cars do not have an EGR valve, it would help with the VIN as there is the 124.104, 105,106,107,126,127,129,186

Thats 8 different versions
 

Number_Cruncher

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OK there are differences with the add on CPS for the retro.

All of these cars do not have an EGR valve, it would help with the VIN as there is the 124.104, 105,106,107,126,127,129,186

Thats 8 different versions

124.126, 124.129, and 124.186 have EGR.

As you say, there are too many versions, and as Brianbrian has said, there are even more variants which aren't covered by the Russian site.
 

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124.126, 124.129, and 124.186 have EGR.

As you say, there are too many versions, and as Brianbrian has said, there are even more variants which aren't covered by the Russian site.

Thank you for that :D if the OVP does not fix it then I will search once we have the VIN
 

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Yes your 250 is 124125 but what is your fuel injection pump N0? if you take the air filter box off you will see it, or look at back of pump to see if you have a plug with two wires coming out if yes this will be the electromagnetic actuator (ELR)you can pull this plug of and adjust idle to see if it is still running lumpy. Hope this helps, no good asking M.B. garages about this part of the engine because the answer will be don't no.
 
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Good man Brian, I'll tackle that after I fit the new OVP, well actually I won't as I must change the oil and filter too, number 3 on the list so :)
 
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I drove home to Cork today and collected the new OVP at the Merc dealer, new type complete with 2 10A fuses, off home and installed it, ye can imagine my delight when I turned the key and the rev counter needle sprang into life :) I watched the ABS light.......... and kept watching.......... and the fecker is still on :(

Disconnected the battery and reconnected it just for the sake of it and still the same. Am quite disappointed really to be honest.

So quick refresh
- OVP was dodgy I presume as the rev counter now works
- Over 1k ohm at both front ABS sensors
- 860 ish from the rear one
- I never actually went looking at any of the sensors as the light is on all of the time and not only when the car is in motion.

Any more ideas gents ?
 
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I think I'll check that both of those fuses are ok before I do anything else (after tea though) ;)
 

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I will try and give you a hand over the weekend,,the trouble is that the last owner has been playing
 
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Cheers Malcolm, no panic though :) After I changed the oil and filter I pulled off both front wheels and took out both ABS sensors, both covered in metal bits so cleaned them both up thinking that they couldn't possibly work with all the bits on them, both back in and no such luck. Then turned by attention to the rear sensor, took that out and I was glad to see no contamination at all on it. All wiring seems ok, 1000 ohms from both front ones and nearly 900 from the rear, cleaning the fronts dropped the resistance by 50 ohms or so, may well be environmental (different days) rather then anything I did.

Also I checked both fuses on the new OVP, both visibly fine and nice and warm after her idling a while.
 

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You have a basic brake module N30 control unit check that the connections are good

I will print some things out. Can you put your Email address in your profile
 
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You have a basic brake module N30 control unit check that the connections are good

Malcolm, you are a genius :D

Cead mile buiochas duit :lol:
(That's one hundred thousand thanks in Irish)

The side of the N30 unit held in by the metal clip was loose, I held it down and asked my sister to observe the light, no change. However before securing it properly I decided a shot of WD 40 would be no harm. ABS light functioning perfectly :)

I am delighted, also I have learned quite a lot too. Thanks to all who contributed, of course the OVP was essential.

Others may find this link handy, it showed be exactly where N30 was.
http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/MB CD/W124/w124CD1/Program/ETM/relay_control.pdf
 
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Guess who .............. :(

The light still comes on sometimes, initially I thought it was the N30 box not being seated correctly so I adjusted the retainer clip a bit and the closed it up and the light went off. Interestingly now when the light comes on, if I switch off the ignition and back to pos 2 the light comes on for a second and goes off as it should. So for whatever reason there seems to be an occassional fault that puts the light on and it only clears when the ignition is turned off. I drove over 100 miles on Sunday night and it stayed off, but in the morning there is about 4 speed bumps coming out of my estate and typically 3 of them will trigger the light on, and the only way it goes out again is ignition off.

My concern is primarily that the ABS light will come on during the retest :(
Once the fault goes shouldn't the ABS light extinguish ? Presumably the fault is gone as restarting the car clears it.

Apologies to pester again :Oops:
 
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