W124 age and build quality

rockmeister

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As a newcomer, I don't know if this is much discussed, so I'm tiptoeing here...
I have read, that bean counters at Merc caused a dip in build quality sometime in the 90's....As a potential perchaser of a W124 series E coupe, I'm anxious not to buy a model from that era. Could anyone suggest the year when the dip took place? Any other relevant details welcomed!
If there was no dip, then please tell me;)
 

The Crooner

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Buy the best 124 coupe you can afford, and leave a little budget to get it perfect. You will then have a car which will last pretty much forever.

The 124 is the last of the over-engineered MBs

Enjoy, I'm jealous

Tony
 

crammy69

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You will no doubt read about the later cars having wiring loom issues ( they were bio-degradable ) but on the whole as The crooner said, buy the best condition w124 and it will be well built, but even the youngest cars are geting on a bit, and despite ebing well built, bits and pieces (like electronics) can and do wear out.
 

television

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AS above and wonderful cars
 

stumpy

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IIRC the 4 pot engine does not have the same weaknesses as the 6 pots, though not as nice to drive
 
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rockmeister

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You will no doubt read about the later cars having wiring loom issues ( they were bio-degradable ) but on the whole as The crooner said, buy the best condition w124 and it will be well built, but even the youngest cars are geting on a bit, and despite ebing well built, bits and pieces (like electronics) can and do wear out.


well that is exactly the kind of info I was wanting...I think it makes sense, on a very small budget, to avoid known problems even tho I appreciate
crammy's point that at that age, some problems are occasionally inevitable. So can anyone name the year when the w124 series became these 'later cars' please?
Thanks:)
 

Mercedes 190E

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1993 I believe. The wiring loom issue seems to affect the 320 and 220 mostly-which are engines only found in the later cars anyhow. The earlier 300-24v eats head gaskets. If I were you, I would go for a 1990-92 230 or 300.
 

jibcl500

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I had a 1988 230TE which was replaced by a 1993 220TE, the 88 I thought was much better, better build, better ride, the 1993 TE has had the loom failure, also the 4 cylinder cars are only 4 speed and eat fuel.

jib
 

Dale Minton

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As a newcomer, I don't know if this is much discussed, so I'm tiptoeing here...
I have read, that bean counters at Merc caused a dip in build quality sometime in the 90's....As a potential perchaser of a W124 series E coupe, I'm anxious not to buy a model from that era. Could anyone suggest the year when the dip took place? Any other relevant details welcomed!
If there was no dip, then please tell me;)


If you want to cut to the quick, and the cost of a little less mpg and insurance doesn't bother you too much - buy a good 500E, you won't get a better W124 (I've had 2) - but there again it was partcially build by Porsche, the engineering is fantastic and the cliche that they don't build 'em like that any more is very true. If you like some performance thrown in 0 -60 in around 6 secs and over 170mph :D
Regards
Dale
 

television

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One can always look at a later one with the 5 speed box and check that the engine loom has been done, as most have by now
 

georgewadham

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As a newcomer, I don't know if this is much discussed, so I'm tiptoeing here...
I have read, that bean counters at Merc caused a dip in build quality sometime in the 90's....As a potential perchaser of a W124 series E coupe, I'm anxious not to buy a model from that era. Could anyone suggest the year when the dip took place? Any other relevant details welcomed!
If there was no dip, then please tell me;)
My experience with Mercedes Benz. I bought a brand new C270 estate in England from a main dealer in 2004.

I was informed that the Valeo radiator could have a problem and could leak Glycol into the gearbox requiring a new £3,000 plus transmission. I took it to my local MB dealer who said it was OK and not worth changing the radiator as a caution.

Unfortunately, the worst has happened, So beware, MB were fitting these radiators for three years, so despite what they say they do fit cheap substandard parts.
George
 

roadhog

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Valeo radiatior problems are not applicable to W124 series.

My advice would be to go for the best example of the '89 to '93 range you can find for your money. That gives you a slightly nicer interior (IMO) and Airbags over the first generation model whilst avoiding the problems (that appeared when MB switched to water based paints) of the 3rd generation ('93 onwards).

Make sure it's been serviced and continue to service it. Don't for one minute think you can just run and neglect it, like any other aging car it will need work to keep it in good health. Some of the repair costs can be quite steep but most jobs are within the grasp of a competent DIY mechanic.
There's little in the way of electronics to go awry. Performance is adequate to keep up with modern traffic.

I'm sometimes tempted by the faster and better equipped W210 but can't quite bring myself to part with my old tank.

Best of all though, even in the current financial climate it's still depreciation free motoring, happy days. :)
 

popuptoaster

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well that is exactly the kind of info I was wanting...I think it makes sense, on a very small budget, to avoid known problems even tho I appreciate
crammy's point that at that age, some problems are occasionally inevitable. So can anyone name the year when the w124 series became these 'later cars' please?
Thanks:)

I have to say its hard to run a mercedes on a very small budget as you either buy a tatty unloved one which WILL cost you money and time to put right (this is how i buy mine as i have time but not the budget to buy and expensive car) many mercedes spares are a good price, but quite a few are not including trim parts for the coupes, and you dont really want to be putting cheap pattern parts on any of the well built Mercedes models, OR you buy a really good one you wont have to spend money on and pay a premium for it in the first place.

My W115 coupe for example, cost less than 500 quid to buy as a runner, but i reckon its gonna end up costing about 4 grand plus my time to get it up to scratch, as good ones go from between 5 and 7k im not really saving any money by doing it this way, and definately no time, but its the way i have to do it to own one.
 

Apial

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1993 I believe. The wiring loom issue seems to affect the 320 and 220 mostly-which are engines only found in the later cars anyhow. The earlier 300-24v eats head gaskets. If I were you, I would go for a 1990-92 230 or 300.

No, they only eat the first headgasket due to a design error. Replacement gaskets have been redesigned. The 320 also suffers the same initial problem. Have a search on auto gearbox problems. I don't recall many problems with the 4 speed.
 
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rockmeister

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thanks chaps, that' very helpful indeed. So a 91/92 w124 e300 coupe (if that's the right name) in silver with red leather seats please, full MD service history, maybe about 120,000 on the clock and be prepared to spend a bit to get her perfect.
Sounds ideal! Thanks again, will post when I get one:):)
 

Bolide

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Personally I'd get a 1995/6 E320 with a 5-speed auto. I think that's the best engine / gearbox combination and it would be 4-5 years newer than a pre-facelift car

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk
 

simon_wall69

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Personally I'd get a 1995/6 E320 with a 5-speed auto. I think that's the best engine / gearbox combination and it would be 4-5 years newer than a pre-facelift car

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk

He's right. If you are concerned about wiring looms, then buy a car that has had this done or use it to negotiate. If not, the multivalve diesels are very relaxing cars to drive; if not that fast.

Whatever you get, make sure it is automatic.
 

television

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Personally I'd get a 1995/6 E320 with a 5-speed auto. I think that's the best engine / gearbox combination and it would be 4-5 years newer than a pre-facelift car

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk

Thats exactly what I posted,. and my thoughts
 

Ade W124

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Not posted on here for a while..

I'd buy on condition and history. I started looking for a late E320, couldn't find a decent low mileage one and ended up quite happily with a nice CE300-24V 5 speed which I bought 2 years ago with 51k on the clock.

Make sure you drive a couple to compare.

There is no body rust on mine, unlike my neighbour's E320 Cabrio which has the usual front wheel arch issues. However I think its a bit of a lottery with the cars as they have known faults and also age related stuff is creeping in..

My last 3 bills since December have been £1100, £79 and £22... :rolleyes:

I'm hoping thats it for a bit but I'm still on original 18 year old exhaust and water pump..


I'd add desirable options are heated leather seats, sportline (or just sports chassis) and working AC. I'd also avoid cars with none standard wheels or body kits as the owner has probably spent money on the looks rather than the oily bits. (with some obvious exceptions).


Best of luck, they are lovely cars when the are running well.


Ade
 
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Juddian

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The wiring loom isn't the hugely expensive task that it was, there is now a part loom kit for the 6 cyl 24v engines, a matter of £40ish and someone competent to fit it.

If i bought another of the 24v motors i would get that part loom replaced as my very first job, before it causes the ecu damage we know so well.

My biggest disappointment with the 124's is that you couldn't have the 300 turbodiesel in RHD form, i'm sure the engineers could have come up with some inlet manifolding to suit, or bolted a supercharger on instead, what a superb car that would have been.

I would have had that combination in preference to the 24v petrol.
 


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