W124 E280 4 Spd Auto (Est), Ignition, Infra-Red Remote

JensH

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Mornin'

I am getting the following blinker codes from my 16 pin diagnostic box on a late model (Nov '95) W124.088 M104942 engine (ca. 138k miles):

Socket 8 HFM-SFI Sequential Injection/Ignition:
9 = O2S 1 (before TWC) - voltage too high, circuit open or voltage implausible.

Socket 12 Infra Red Central Locking:
3 = Supply pump, central locking system short to ground;
9 = Driver door switch group wiring, short to circuit 30 ATA/convenience microswitch wiring;
12 = Left front door actuator, open circuit.

Any gurus out there who can shed light on possible remedial steps for these? :)

Separately:
My looms are all basically sound, I think, except for some kind of botched connector in my headlamp harness - although all the lighting functions work ok. There is no sleeve on this section, in the battery zone, where the connector has been inserted, so looks like at some point someone cut through the harness (for some reason or other!) and had to repatch the wiring with a non-MB connector - this is dirty with grease and damp because the connector has no waterproof covering. Picture attached. Leave it or sort it? :?:

Is the nearby 30A fuse+relay (see picture) for the fuel pump btw? :?:

Cheers all, and have a nice day! :cool:

Jens
 

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mej

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For fault 9 check the O2 sensor signal at the connector under the driver's mat. You will need a DMM for this, and one which reacts quickly enough to capture the frequency of signal, although mu Maplins special did the trick. I replaced my sensor (http://www.lambdasensor.com/). Quick job, and did the trick. Under £ 70 IIRC.

For the others it's just check the wiring. Sounds as though the wiring passing throught the door front edges may have become chafed.
 
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JensH

JensH

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Ignition / Infra Red

For fault 9 check the O2 sensor signal at the connector under the driver's mat. You will need a DMM for this, and one which reacts quickly enough to capture the frequency of signal, although mu Maplins special did the trick. I replaced my sensor (http://www.lambdasensor.com/). Quick job, and did the trick. Under £ 70 IIRC.

For the others it's just check the wiring. Sounds as though the wiring passing throught the door front edges may have become chafed.

Cheers for this...

The sensor itself is plugged into the LAMDA init? Seems an easy replacement, but I'll check the connector first...

I noticed the flexible rubber connector for the door wiring is out of socket, with the wires exposed, so maybe that's the root of my IR faults. I'll look more closely. Would these fault codes explain intermittent working of tailgate IR lock btw?

And any thoughts on that dodgy-looking connector and the 30A fuse / Siemens relay? :?:

Thanks! :)

Jens
 

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For fault 9 check the O2 sensor signal at the connector under the driver's mat. You will need a DMM for this, and one which reacts quickly enough to capture the frequency of signal, although mu Maplins special did the trick. I replaced my sensor (http://www.lambdasensor.com/). Quick job, and did the trick. Under £ 70 IIRC.

For the others it's just check the wiring. Sounds as though the wiring passing throught the door front edges may have become chafed.

Re multimeter here never use an auto ranging meter they are the slow ones and the voltage has gone way before they can update. The 20volt range is safe and perfect.

Jens,. is your PSE pump working at all.
 

mej

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The O2 sensor (what is often called the lambda) screws into the exhaust. It connects into the loom under the driver's mat. Doc attached. Haven't a clue as to the 30A fuse in the bottom RHC of your pic. Need to be on top of the car really to see it. The connector shown MAY be something to do with a non MB (DeAvia??) a/c system if you have it? If these ideas aren't relevant I suggest continuity testing to the ECU plug terminals to identify what these wires feed. I think I sent a ECU/plug connection sheet earlier? The tailgate wire connections can suffer from chafing where they pass through the frame in the same way as the door wiring can.
 

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JensH

JensH

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The O2 sensor (what is often called the lambda) screws into the exhaust. It connects into the loom under the driver's mat. Doc attached. Haven't a clue as to the 30A fuse in the bottom RHC of your pic. Need to be on top of the car really to see it. The connector shown MAY be something to do with a non MB (DeAvia??) a/c system if you have it? If these ideas aren't relevant I suggest continuity testing to the ECU plug terminals to identify what these wires feed. I think I sent a ECU/plug connection sheet earlier? The tailgate wire connections can suffer from chafing where they pass through the frame in the same way as the door wiring can.

Yes sorry that's what I meant re the sensor!

& noted re the tailgate - will look at that too...

You are right re the loom. It is A/C not headlamp - just checked - doh! MB have confirmed to me directly that the A/C was factory fitted, and I definitely have Siemens Tempmatik Heat Exchanger (A 124 830 78 60), although it has a Diavia blower cover and there is also a really cheap and nasty looking 'Modulo' ECU under the dash, with a rogue unconnected plug (A A010 545 10 28*) (and this box has its own 7.5A fuse). Looking into A/C at the moment also (intermittent heating through the centre vents, so 'Tempering' function u/s, although by some trick - disconnecting/reconnecting all connections to A/C controller and ECU - I got it working on Sunday briefly, before it failed again). May open a separate thread on this... 'Cos I'm v confused. All the A/C wiring for Tempmatik should be part of the MB inboard cable harness (A 124 543 20 33) :confused::confused::confused:

Anyway, I digress... Sorry to prattle on! :rolleyes:

Jens

* 5 possible functions for this on my VIN: inboard temp feelers, heat exchanger temp feeler, buzzer, inboard feeler blower, connection to harness inboard feeler blower.
 
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JensH

JensH

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PSE Pump

Re multimeter here never use an auto ranging meter they are the slow ones and the voltage has gone way before they can update. The 20volt range is safe and perfect.

Jens,. is your PSE pump working at all.

I think so, Malcolm. If it wasn't, my remote central locking wouldn't be working at all, would it? Just as well, because both my passenger door and tailgate lock barrels are different to the master key! £600 :)shock:) to sort those when I can summon up the courage to cough up to MB... Grrrr

I'd love to be able to interview the motor about its 17 year history and all the abuse suffered along the way!

Jens
 

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Right, so where are we up to on the faults on the car and what is all the locking doing or not doing.
 
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JensH

JensH

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You asked...

Right, so where are we up to on the faults on the car and what is all the locking doing or not doing.

IR remote and CL works at driver's door;
Works intermittently at tailgate - working now and has been for about 2 weeks;
Both open and close all locks, including fuel flap;
Just have those error codes, and will follow the suggestions on these...
The key itself works ignition, and the locking centre box, but neither of the actual door locks. I have a new second IR key (£200) which cannot yet be synched owing to not matching the barrels, hence new locks are a must really... Not least because up the proverbial creek if IR goes u/s.

My complete diagnostic error reports were:

Socket 6
OK

Socket 8 (this thread)
9 = O2S 1 (before TWC) - voltage too high, circuit open or voltage implausible

Socket 10
OK

Socket 12 (this thread)
3 = Supply pump, central locking system short to ground
9 = Driver door switch group wiring, short to circuit 30 ATA/convenience microswitch wiring
12 = Left front door actuator, open circuit

Socket 14 (pursued on another thread)
2 = CC/ISC Module
4 = CC Switch
5 = Stop Lamp Switch
10 = Engine speed (RPM) signal (TNA)

That's the extent of my analogue diagnostic capabilities. :(

I'll probably look for some help on the A/C in another thread, but I need to do some more research there first, I think...

As you will have gathered I am interested and keen, but rather lacking when it comes to the science. In my third year at school, I was given the first year chemistry test at the end of the year instead of the proper one - and got 17%, which I personally thought was quite good. :) Hence pursued career in "the arts".

If I can get these things sorted, preferably with DIY, I will be nearly done. Just need to invest then in those pesky locks, a bit of underbody maintenance (if needed) and a bit a paintwork (incl. new wings possibly). Hopefully, it will then be routine maintenance, although there is always something to be tinkering with.

I will then have what Arthur Daley might call a "concourse classic"!

Jens
 

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Have you removed the fault codes to see if they are still current.
 
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JensH

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I'll make sure they are clear and run the tests again.

Thanks, Malcolm.

& I get where you are coming from. Symptoms not matching codes?

J
 

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Jens

'Hence pursued career in "the arts"'

More water with the absinthe????

Did I mention earlier that the 'rclick', 'rightclick' aftermarket remote works well and is an easy retrofit. I've never had a remote 124 (despite having had 6), but I understand they're a PITA. Best done away with? Lock sets and ignition barrel best sourced for a fraction of MB prices from a scrappy non?
 
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JensH

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Locks

Jens

'Hence pursued career in "the arts"'

More water with the absinthe????

Did I mention earlier that the 'rclick', 'rightclick' aftermarket remote works well and is an easy retrofit. I've never had a remote 124 (despite having had 6), but I understand they're a PITA. Best done away with? Lock sets and ignition barrel best sourced for a fraction of MB prices from a scrappy non?

Indeed! ;)

I quite like the MB remote - especially the little green and red lights built into the sensors on the bodywork. So very 90's... :)

Isn't the problem with the barrels that the lock profile is unique? If you can point me to a cheaper option I'll be delighted!

I'll mail you some, er, absinthe by way of reward - it makes the heart grow fonder, as you know... :cool:

Jens
 

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I find pastis works for me:D

A complete lock set with at least one key from a scrapper will work fine. Spare keys can be cut - my local UK guy charges around £10 each though. Swapping over the doors and ignition isn't such a big deal - when you've done it once!! Never done the tailgate. Malcolm (or I, another Malcolm) can probably send you the MB WIS instructs, but I think you also have access non?
 
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JensH

JensH

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Keys/Locks

I find pastis works for me:D

A complete lock set with at least one key from a scrapper will work fine. Spare keys can be cut - my local UK guy charges around £10 each though. Swapping over the doors and ignition isn't such a big deal - when you've done it once!! Never done the tailgate. Malcolm (or I, another Malcolm) can probably send you the MB WIS instructs, but I think you also have access non?

Thanks Malcolm,

Pastis it is... More of a calvados man, myself...

I hope I'm not being dense, here.
My master key fits both physical barrels but won't turn them... so the barrels have both either seized or been changed, the latter more likely, yes?
If I source different locks, won't I then have a mismatch with my main key (and expensive new second one!) so locking mechanisms working physically but no synch to IR?

Eh? :?:

Jens
 

mej

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If changed I would expect you to have a second key to work the non original barrels. You can remove a barrel and fiddle with it quite easily. I think you have the WIS for instructs, but on the net anyway. Perhaps worth the effort of checking. I had a broken component in one on my Berlin Taxi, and swapping that with a good component from a scrapper barrel bought for coppers allowed me to fix the lock and keep the original keys. See pic.

Yes regarding new barrels, the old ones and key would be surplus, but a new set from a scrappy would be much cheaper than MB new.

Not used to the IR system, as never had one, so I can only surmise that it is not specific to the lock as it will simply drive the actuator.
 

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JensH

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If changed I would expect you to have a second key to work the non original barrels. You can remove a barrel and fiddle with it quite easily. I think you have the WIS for instructs, but on the net anyway. Perhaps worth the effort of checking. I had a broken component in one on my Berlin Taxi, and swapping that with a good component from a scrapper barrel bought for coppers allowed me to fix the lock and keep the original keys. See pic.

Yes regarding new barrels, the old ones and key would be surplus, but a new set from a scrappy would be much cheaper than MB new.

Not used to the IR system, as never had one, so I can only surmise that it is not specific to the lock as it will simply drive the actuator.

Berlin taxi !!! :shock:
In that lovely sh*t beige colour ??? :?:
Had a few trips in those in January (spot the E Class!)

Not sure how the synching works - must be some hook up to the ignition, because in order to synch you have to move ignition onto '2', i.e. it is electrics not mechanics that rule the synch, so I guess a complete change over of all 4 locks (2 doors, ignition, centre console) might do it? If yes, I will ask Mercman...

Cheers...

TAXI! :D

Jens
 
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WIS

Btw Malcolm,

I am on the EPC, and hours of fun it is too, but don't see access to the WIS.

Am I missing something?

J
 

mej

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In that lovely sh*t beige colour ???

If yours is I'd see a quack:D!!

Just turned the 250,000 kms mark (was used as a cab for only a short period before export from Germany).
 

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