W124 Estate -Drive train query

julesg007

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Hello all,

I'm looking at getting a W124 estate and have a general query about the drive train. Hope I'm in the correct forum, so apologies if not.

As even the youngest of examples will be 12 years old most cars will have travelled in excess of 100k with many examples I have seen for sale having over 150k on the clock.

In general I understand the engines are fairly reliable and with the correct maintenance they should be able to cover in excess of 200k.

However, what about the auto boxes, are they as robust?

Also, what considerations should I be aware of if the car has been used for towing?

Thanks for your help
Regards
Jules
 

television

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It depends on what the car has towed,, some folk just tow a small trailer. Sure if the car has been pulling a large van, then yes, all of the drive is going to have a little more wear

Some boxes go for as long as the engine, and going by the post on here, there are not many problems with those
 

simon_wall69

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As long as there is evidence of the fluid having been changed regularly and, as TV said, that the car hasn't done any towing it should be fine. That gearbox in the 560sel has done nearly 300,000 miles and in my old written off e300 it had done over 500,000 miles. They were getting a bit jerky but still worked fine.
 

Bolide

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In general I understand the engines are fairly reliable and with the correct maintenance they should be able to cover in excess of 200k.

However, what about the auto boxes, are they as robust?

I wouldn't agree. I'd say the engines were extremely reliable and that 200k is easily achievable, 300k unexceptional and 400k a good mileage. I think most engines will require a cylinder head gasket replacement at some point in their life and autoboxes will require a rebuild at about 250k

It's rust & lack of maintenance that kills W124s, not engine & gearbox problems

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk
 

stumpy

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just make sure you test the car thoroughly. Even at 150k the box should change smoothly with no flaring. Rebuild is about 1500 if knackered
 

kth286

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The test of good gearbox maintance is to pull the dipstick out (at rear of engine) and smell the fluid.

It should be sweet and bright red.

If it smells burnt and is dark red, walk away as the clutch packs are being destroyed.

A lot of gearbox problems are vacuum related and nothing to do with the gearbox itself.

There are loads of tests that can be done on the gearbox with it still installed in the car and also there are many repairs that can be done with gearbox still installed in car, but the knowledge base within the technician community on this subject is very poor.

I am convinced there are many many gearboxes changed at high cost which could have been repaired easily whilst still installed.
 
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julesg007

julesg007

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  • Thread Starter
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Thank you all for your comments and views.

I will add this invaluable information to the rest that I have been given and hope to put it to very good use in the not too distant future.

Happy and trouble free motoring to you all.

Enjoy the weekend
Jules
 

wireman

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The other parts of the driveline that may/will give trouble are the rubber couplings and centre bearing mount on the prop shaft, easy to change.

The big cost worries on the estates seem to be self levelling suspension and all the rubber bits in the rear subframe ass'y along with this the front ball joints must be in good order, the tail gate struts get tired and the thing won't stay up, struts don't cost much but are hells own task to change.

At this age and mileage these bits are going to be getting tired.

If there is no rust its well worth the effort and costs to have an example of MB's finest.
 

Bolide

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The other parts of the driveline that may/will give trouble are the rubber couplings and centre bearing mount on the prop shaft, easy to change.

The big cost worries on the estates seem to be self levelling suspension and all the rubber bits in the rear subframe ass'y along with this the front ball joints must be in good order, the tail gate struts get tired and the thing won't stay up, struts don't cost much but are hells own task to change.

At this age and mileage these bits are going to be getting tired.

If there is no rust its well worth the effort and costs to have an example of MB's finest.

Engine mounts and rear subframe bushes are the items most commonly worn out on cars I see. The front prop doughnut will wear but the back one seems not to. Ball joints seem to be OK until about 175k or 15 years. I do front ARB bushes on every car

I've not seen one car in five years with failed rear suspension. I think the problem is overemphasised, mainly because some people have huge bills from mechanics who don't understand the system

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk
 


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