W124 Fuel pump diesel leak(300D)

[aal]

looking for advice, diesel seeping from the six valves fitted into the top of fuel pump, these are the ones retained with serrated lock plates, is this fixable at home or does the old girl need to go to the shop, if so is there a good indepandant in South Wales?
1991 300D W124
Thanks
Alex

 

[williamf2]

Fixing the fuel leaking from the injection pump

I have a 1987 300d, I needed a special tool for the serrated nuts on my injection pump, and a torque wrench (set to 25 foot lbs) also there are special o rings, and special copper washers that should be replaced, the diesel injection shop that i always take my injection repair business to (united diesel in alexandria virginia) told me to make sure you don't pull the pins out, that are beneath the serrated nuts. Apparently the valves are indexed with a pin, and if you pull one of the metal pieces out, it messes up the indexing. I cleaned up the top of the injection pump as best I could, removed the metal fuel lines, and removed the locking metal tabs, and then used the special serrated socket to remove the nuts, I then used cotton swabs to removes as much crap from inside the injection housing as possible, reaplced the rubber o rings, resplaced the old copper washers with the new ones, carefully places the tiny spring in the center of the metal piece below, hand theraded the serrated nut on, and then torqued down to 25 foot lbs with the torque wrench ... viola , no more fuel leaking and no more smell, this took me about 4 hours.

 

[Emmanuel]

where can I get the socket to remove the serrated nuts? I called the dealership and they told me it was a shop only tool.

 

[Alex Crow]

Hi, we have plenty here on ebay uk... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/33-Tooth-...t=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item5d3214462e

 

[Doug1234]

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM602InjPumpFuelLeak

The above link sheds some light on how to approach the job and further searches of the forum in the link will bring up plenty of info on doing the job.

I have never done the job myself but it seems easy enough,observe clinical cleanliness though and I would think if you did 3 of the 6 and then started the engine up it would fire on the 3 that have been untouched and avoid flattening the battery getting fuel to the injectors ,,you could then finish off the other 3 and still have no starting issues.

The link is for a five cylinder turbo diesel (USA) but aside from a few different brackets and odds and ends everything is relevant

 

[Alex Crow]

.......if you did 3 of the 6 and then started the engine up it would fire on the 3 that have been untouched and avoid flattening the battery getting fuel to the injectors ,,you could then finish off the other 3 and still have no starting issues.....

I like your style! Might try this myself next time.

 

[wireman]

You will need to remove the inlet manifold to get at the pump, all the injector pipes have to come off to do this so unfortunately Doug's 3 at time idea wont help. Make sure your battery is fully charged and crank it without pausing until it starts to bleed it when your done.
It took me about 1 hour to do my five pot, 5 O'rings & 5 copper rings for £4odd from MB.

Clean the top deck of the pump before you start the job, any bits of grime etc will fall into each delivery valves aperture when you unscrew it and this is not good. I gave mine a serious blasting with a pressure washer on the top of the pump only having first released the locking plates and slipped them up the pipes out of the way.
Fuel will drain down the leak off system while the pump is open and run down the engine block, mind it doesn't drip filth all over your driveway or garage floor.

When dealing with fuel pumps cleanliness is essential, keep you hands and tools clean to avoid adding gritty oil finger prints to the delivery valve parts.

Do not over tighten the injector unions, 15Nm/11lbft Max.