W124 Rebush

[Gazzaj]

Calling all the guys in the know. How much is involved in the removal of the rear sub frame mounts for the bushes? And the whole bushings in general. Has anyone done this on here? For some reason the car has started skating and skipping all over the place and squeaking when you so much as reach across the car to change the cd.

 

[Stu_CDX]

Mine does this if you go over a speed bump. Sounds like it's coming from the front though, I'll watch with interest.

 

[Gazzaj]

I just did the front in may some time. Its the rear that are shot. I would consult haynes, but if past experience is anything to go by, it will say, jack up the car with the handbrake applied. Disconnect the battery. Take out old bushes, fit new ones!! ITS CRAP! So I'm hoping Malcolm or one of the other guru's has some wisdom on this.

 

[Bolide]

You really need a 4-poster and a transmission jack so you can get under the car then lower the subframe

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk

 

[Gazzaj]

So two trolley jacks in the back garden isnt Viable then??

 

[television]

that would do to get the rear end off the ground, then with a bar lever the sub frame at each fixing point and check for movement and free play in the rubbers fixing points.

This would take a long time to go bad,,not something that just happens

 

[Gazzaj]

The car was stood for four years, on its original bushes in a muddy field. Then I saved it. Problem is it has always squeaked and knocked from the back end, but now its bouncing really badly even if you hit a pea sized stone. I felt sick last night, felt like I was on the Landrover off road challenge, only difference was I was on the M6 East Lancs Road !!!

 

[Bolide]

If it's bouncing it's not the subframe that's the problem - it's the shockers or the self-levelling if it's an estate

If the car's been sitting a long time you may as well do the leading subframe mounts, front ARB Bushes & engine mounts in one go - they will all need doing soon if not immediately

Before you start I'd make sure the brake pipes, self-levelling pipes & fuel pipes will pass an MOT. They are the #1 cause of MOT failures and can be expensive to replace

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk

 

[Gazzaj]

The car has been back on the road for 9 months, with full MOT. It has brand new Eibach Springs and Bilstien Shockers front and rear. The front arms are new, the roll bushes are new on the front.

 

[Bolide]

For some reason the car has started skating and skipping all over the place and squeaking when you so much as reach across the car to change the cd...

It has brand new Eibach Springs and Bilstien Shockers front and rear. The front arms are new, the roll bushes are new on the front

I would suspect the two things are related

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk

 

[Gazzaj]

Care to eleborate? The springs and shocks where done months ago and it was fine, with minor squeaking. now its got un drivable

 

[Bolide]

You're not giving enough information for us to be able to help. If the shocks & springs were replaced then I'd suspect them or some part related to them

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk

 

[Uncle Benz]

Rear subframe bushes do eventually go, but the more common failure point on the rear is the short arms that go in and forward diagonally from the top of the rear hub. Feels a bit rear steery when these go. The subframe bushes tend to give a thump as you go on and off the power, but don't really affect the roadholding that much.

Have you looked at the front suspension lower balljoints?? These can wear horrifically, but unless you jack up the suspension under the arm you will never see it, as the spring keeps them in tension. Lazy MOT testers often miss these too...

 

[Gazzaj]

I Have replaced the following: Front Suspension Springs, Shocks, Wish Bone with new bushes in, ARB Bushes, Dics, bearings, And pads. The front is fine. The rear has only had Shocks and springs, nothing else. It sits toe out quite exessively from the rear. When you so much as lean on the car, the rear squeaks and groans (like rubber perished), you go over a bump in the road, even insignificant ones and it bounces all over. (This is not the springs and shocks as It has become a problem a few months after these where fitted) You sit in it, and it sqeaks again and knocks on every bump. but has now become un-usable because just drving to the village I feel like Ive done a 16k round trip in a model A ford.

 

[Gazzaj]

Have just seen these over in the states, for both sides shipped it would be £159.00. Do you think replacing these bad boys will help ?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Merc...3?IMSfp=TL0812131210006r2944#ebayphotohosting

 

[roofless]

gazzaj i got mine from euro car parts & cost the same give or take a few quid http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecommerce/Search_Results.asp

 

[Gazzaj]

Do you think this will help?

 

[roofless]

well i cant see the car or know it's history but i did the same thing as mine did feel like it was steering from the rear so i did the links but not a lot better so i did the two leading bushes on the rear subframe & it did the job. like night & day. i would say do the subframe bushes first as the links bolt on to the subframe

 

[Gazzaj]

So how difficult is that? Does the diff have to come off and the springs and shocks and things?

 

[roofless]

no you need to undo the prop to let the subframe drop down a bit to get the bush out . when i did mine i put the backend up on ramps took the prop off at the diff then removed the bolts from the leading bushes then raised the body a bit with a trolly jack at both sides to give a gap of 6in to get the old bush out a big hammer & drift job then pop in the new bushes drop the jacks then i used the jack to push the subframe up at the bush to get it in most of the way then used the bolt to pull it together ..ps this is not the best way to do it but with limited tools on the drive it worked for me