W124 Sticky Ignition Key 1993 E class

tjamesbo

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My Ignition Key has gone sticky .... ie hard to turn past the steering lock to start once inserted. I have the vague recollection that this is potentially serious as if it breaks with the steering lock stuck on its a major rebuild job to Fix. However if fixed before its an easier and cheaper job. I'm sure there is an article somewhere here on the forum or in a Mercedes Club Mag Anybody enlighten me on the details of the repair before its too late.
 

Cosworth

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if the key turns up to position 1 I would take the barrell out before its too late to turn the key.

Once you tirn the key to position 1 you will need to pointy pins that will go throught the two holes lined up in position one.

Put the pins in and pull the barrell out and replace it.

Please note that the pins need to be the correct size.
 

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Sounds easy to get the Ignition barrell out even with the right pins, I have taken them out in 2or3 minutes or one took me 1 hour. Hope this helps let us no how you get on.
 

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It can be a very difficult to change your lock barrel, here's my observations on the job:-

The key must be in the first c/w position to allow the extract tool to enter its guide holes, be patient and keep the tool parallel on the lock axis as you insert it.

Here's the bit that makes it tricky:-
There are two sets of latches, one holding the lock barrel in with the first resistance that your removal tool meets and a second set that hold the cover over the whole assembly just a little way further in, If I remember correctly the pins of the removal tool must go in about 45mm to release the cover otherwise the barrel is released but the cover will stop it being withdrawn.

I laboured for ages just pushing the tool in enough to release the barrel only, untill on one attempt my extractor suddenly jumped in a little deeper and released the covers catches.

Haynes has a picture of what you need to make a removal tool, its a hoop of 2mm wire with the ends sloped to nothing over about the last 5mm of wire with the resulting 2 points on the outsides of the tool, I made mine from stainless welding rod. The width of the loop should match the distance between the two holes into which it is inserted.

There is only one catch on the barrel but two on the cover.
Take care not to drop (or watch where one falls) the latches for the cover out of the lock body as you withdraw the assembly.
The cover latches are half moon die castings about 1 inch long assisted by very small springs and will drop out readily if disturbed after the barrel and cover are removed.

Some wiggling of the tool will help it engage the covers latches, don't push too hard but be sure it goes in at least 45mm before you attempt to extract the barrel.

You cannot extract the cover without extracting the barrel but you can put the barrel in and replace the cover separately.
If you dont have a new barrel and are worried about extracting a dodgy one that eventualy won't turn, remove the barrel and replace it without refitting the cover, tape over the cover latches to prevent their escape. Use the car as normal.
If the lock fails in the CCW position all thats needed without the cover is one little hole drilling into the exposed flange of the barrel (in the lower/left hand/ 8 o'clock) to allow one leg of the extractor to hit the barrels catch. Simples.

The 201(190) has a similar arrangement.
 

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You should not need it after the above advice buy I do have a paper on this.

As said by wireman,it must be done in key one with the steering lock off or the steering column will have to be modified or replaced
 
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tjamesbo

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Thanks for the info guys I thought I would play safe and leave the key in position 1 and then lock the car with my other key . However this cunning plan failed when I encountered the " Installed start repeat lock ie the key must be fully turned to the left before renewed starting "
so my only playsafe option is leave the key In at position 0 i'm not sure if this is much of a protection .
so I think the revised strategy is to make up the tool ( getting some welding rod tomorrow ) and remove the barrel and cover then reinsert the barrel as described in post above . I missed mercedes parts today ( finishing late again ) but am conscious they will want passport / log book DNA family history favourite pet etc before deeming to order me a replacement barrel / key all for a car worth between £400 and £800 that I have driven up in. It will probably take a week to arrive ???
 

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If you would like the official paper just ask, but as said do not attempt to take the barrel out without being in 1
 

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couldnt the barrel just be removed for now, as a temporary measure? or does it need to be an "out and in" job to save having to modify/replace the steering column?
 

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If the barrel is removed with the key not turned to 1 the steering lock will fire and there is no way to retrieve it other than by grinding it all off
 

turbopete

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so you couldnt turn it to 1, remove the barrel and leave it out without the lock firing so that the car could be used until a replacement is sourced then? is that correct?
 

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so you couldnt turn it to 1, remove the barrel and leave it out without the lock firing so that the car could be used until a replacement is sourced then? is that correct?

That is correct and the steering wheel must not be turned at all until the new barrel is in place
 

turbopete

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not like anything ive ever had to take apart then! still, 3 days on here and ive learned 3 things! slow but steady does the trick for me!!!
 

roofless

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it could be the key is worn ? did you try the spare key
 

television

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it could be the key is worn ? did you try the spare key

This fault is well known on the 123 and 124, the lock just becomes impossible to turn in the end, they charge £63 for the 123 and a little more for the 124, I dont know why as they look the same
 

roofless

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This fault is well known on the 123 and 124, the lock just becomes impossible to turn in the end, they charge £63 for the 123 and a little more for the 124, I dont know why as they look the same

i had this fault with my old 300te but it's worth a try with the spare ......it's free :D
 
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tjamesbo

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Thanks again Guys The spare is the same ie both keys = same sticky lock
so i think I'll be going with ; .....as per wiremans post above

" If you dont have a new barrel and are worried about extracting a dodgy one that eventualy won't turn, remove the barrel and replace it without refitting the cover, tape over the cover latches to prevent their escape. Use the car as normal.
If the lock fails in the CCW position all thats needed without the cover is one little hole drilling into the exposed flange of the barrel (in the lower/left hand/ 8 o'clock) to allow one leg of the extractor to hit the barrels catch. Simples."

so I'm off to get some welding or modelling rod to make my Tool extract the barrel and remove the cover then tape up the barrel - reinsert and use the car as normal ???????? until new barrel arrives in a weeks time

Yes Television ( malcolm ) i woulkd be grateful for the paper i always work on the basis of more information is always better so if you could E-mail me Boyderoo@yahoo.co.uk

Many Thanks - The support on this forum is excellent and I try to post my solutions in detail once i've completed any jobs to further the excellent example set by forum contributors
 

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I have sent it to you. :D:D
 
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tjamesbo

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Found another spare key that looks a lot less worn tried it to see if it was any better.......... a fatal mistake ....... now it wont turn with any of the three keys

Help !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Is it a drill out job now??? or can it be jiggled into position 1 one more time?

article on Benzworld suggests attaching the key to the sandpaper clamp on a vibrating sander and pulling the sander away once it turns to position 1

I dont think my column is locked at the moment dont want to wiggle it too much in case it does
 

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