W126 High idle problem

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steve beard

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Thank you for the replies,
I have removed the plug from the back of the cold start valve when warm and it made no difference.
I the OVP was bad would the ABS light be on?
The ABS light is not on but just trying to pin point the problem.
I cant find any air leaks at the minute.
The only time the idle came down was when i made the egr valve work by sucking on it, makes me wonder if it could be the mixture is wrong?
Starting to wonder about the garage but not looking forward to the bill!!!
 

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There is more than 1 output on the OVP relay but I do not think that.

If a vacuum pipe is split or off then this can cause it,,,can you not just block up all the outlets on the inlet manifold to test it.

If the EGR valve was faulty is the diaphragm split
 
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Hi malcolm,
I think that the egr valve is good just it makes the idle return to normal when you make it move by sucking on it. This makes me think mixture.

When its cold it starts and runs fine, but as it warms up get slowly faster untill it gets to 1100rpm.
If it was sucking air that was not going through the metering head would it run fast or slow?
 

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If air gets into the inlet manifold from a EGR then the engine will go faster, it is mainly the air going in that speeds the engine up.

Can you pull the pipe off the egr and block it off and see
 
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I think your right I must have an air leak, I know the idle ecu is working to keep the idle down, and when i suck the egr valve must make it run a bit richer.
I think it must be an air leak around the manifold somewhere.
Is it possible the black rubber under the air plate is split?
 

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This is a bad time for me as I have a computer down, or I could post up all the vacuum points on the engine
 

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I think your right I must have an air leak, I know the idle ecu is working to keep the idle down, and when i suck the egr valve must make it run a bit richer.
I think it must be an air leak around the manifold somewhere.
Is it possible the black rubber under the air plate is split?

Most common place is the injector pods/seals and pipes, test with some brake cleaner.
 

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Thank you for the replies,
I have removed the plug from the back of the cold start valve when warm and it made no difference.
I the OVP was bad would the ABS light be on?
The ABS light is not on but just trying to pin point the problem.
I cant find any air leaks at the minute.
The only time the idle came down was when i made the egr valve work by sucking on it, makes me wonder if it could be the mixture is wrong?
Starting to wonder about the garage but not looking forward to the bill!!!

Steve the ABS light may not necessarily be on if the OVP was faulty. I had an idle problem intermittently for about a year, I always thought the ABS light would be on, but recently changed the OVP anyway and that was it. Really worth a go.
 

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Steve the ABS light may not necessarily be on if the OVP was faulty. I had an idle problem intermittently for about a year, I always thought the ABS light would be on, but recently changed the OVP anyway and that was it. Really worth a go.

True and I said this earlier on, there can be 3 pin 87 outputs, a,b ,c d.
 
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steve beard

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I have fixed the high idle problem and the car is running like a dream.
I brought a new icv and it runs perfectly.
I have just brought a new rubber seal for the bottom of the windcreen that fits on the plastic firewall cover, should make it look better.
Next job are the front wings!!!
I have priced up the chromes for the rear bumper!!!
But need to find the best way of fixing the wings?
 

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Excellent. How much was the ICV? They cost a fortune dont they?

Also, I've been unable to find that seal for below the windscreen, do you mind letting us know where you got it from?
 
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