W140 Coupe Brake Shoes

jibcl500

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Hi All.

Recently replaced the Diff on my coupe, whilst doing so I noticed the rear wheels or brakes where binding, removed the rear disks and replaced the shoes. The problem I have is I can refit the disk on one side but not the other, I assume the handbrake cable needs to be slackened off, questions is where is the ajustment on the cable.

thanks in advance

jib
 
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jibcl500

jibcl500

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so do I remove the rear seats to adjust the handbrake.

jib
 

television

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so do I remove the rear seats to adjust the handbrake.

jib

No sir, I was just giving an indication as to its position under the car.

Malcolm
 
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jibcl500

jibcl500

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Mal

thanks for that, so how am I supposed to adjust anything when the exhaust is in the way, I thought rear seats had to be removed to adjust the hand brake.

jib
 
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jibcl500

jibcl500

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sorted it, looked at my tech CD's, I have to remove the heat shield and part of the exhaust, (nice) turn the locking pin and at the same time push the locking pin until the spring loaded eccentric ratchet locks in to place.

just bought a skoda instead.

jib
 

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jibcl500

You shouldn't have needed to adjust the cable at all.

The adjustment is within the brakes themselves, and you should have slackened each one off individually before you removed the disc/drum.

The problem now is that you may have adjusted the cable to the extent that the brakes themselves cannot be adjusted properly.
 

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jibcl500

You shouldn't have needed to adjust the cable at all.

The adjustment is within the brakes themselves, and you should have slackened each one off individually before you removed the disc/drum.

The problem now is that you may have adjusted the cable to the extent that the brakes themselves cannot be adjusted properly.

I do not think that the back disc drums can be removed without backing off the adjusters,due to the ridge formed inside the drum section. Sometimes the new shoes are just a couple of mm over sized. Sometimes i have had to lightly file the end of the shoes in order to refit.
The hand brake cable has nothing to do with the setting of the adjusters, once the shoes are on. Each wheel adjuster is set to lock the wheel, then tapped with a wood mallet to center the shoes, then backed off until the wheel turns in very light contact with the shoes. Once this is done the parking brake cable can be set to the correct number of clicks.

Malcolm

Malcolm
 

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I should have added this before,its a waste of time setting the handbrake cable until the car has had a short run applying the parking brake lightly a few times while slowing down,they must be bedded in first.

Malcolm
 
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jibcl500

jibcl500

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Well the problem I had was the shoe material was missing on 2 shoes, I never use the parking brake I always leave it in park. with the new shoes fitted and the internal adjustment on the brakes set to the lowest point the disks still couldnt be fitted, well only one but not the other.
The cable had been adjusted at some point, I managed to turn the allen bolt anti clock wise enough to then refit the disks, I then turned the allen bolt clockwise to remove some slack and then finished with the internal adjustment on the wheels, simple task when you know how. The cable adjustment does most of the adjustment, the wheels do the fine tuning.
MB suggest removing the exhaust and heat shield to do this adjustment, No chance.

jib
 

Sprint'n'Go

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The cable adjustment does most of the adjustment, the wheels do the fine tuning.
MB suggest removing the exhaust and heat shield to do this adjustment, No chance.

jib

I hope I misunderstand what you are saying here. It is critical that you carry out the adjustment procedure as described above by Malcolm. First set the hub brake adjusters while the cable is relatively slack. Then take up excess travel at the handbrake lever by adjusting the cable. If you don't you may end up with the hub brake actuators almost at the end of their travel leaving you with an almost useless handbrake.
I did the handbrake set up on my van about 6 weeks ago and couldn't believe the build up of rust that almost prevented me from getting the disc/drum off on one side despite releasing the adjusters (cable and shoe) completely. The other side was even worse, so bad in fact that the ridge of built-up rust had crumbled away allowing the disc/drum to almost fall off when pulled :rolleyes:

What I did in this case and always do even to the lip on the outside edge of worn discs is get the grinder out and 'carefully' take off the problem ridges so drums come off easily and pads come out of callipers without a fight. I will probably get an avalanche of criticism for this suggestion but I have never had any problems even with vented discs.
 

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