khassis
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- SL500/2003/ 5.0
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W140 S Class boot not closing flush
- Thread starter Mazi
- Start date
- Thread Starter
- Thread starter
- #22
After all these years I have bought another W140. Was looking for an S500 but settled for an S320 as the mileage is very low.Mazi,
I've just come accross your post. I had exactly the same symptoms. If you have not yet managed to solve your problem let me know and I'll put you on the right track.
Regards
Alan
Anyway it has the same problem with the bootlid. Any help would be appreciated
Mazi,
Congratulations on your new W140. I loved mine.
First, an assumption. Your boot lid won't fully close however hard you push and all your doors don't soft close either. I had exactly the same symptoms six years ago and there is a reason for it. When we first wrote here is what I said.
"As a first fix, and something Mazi could try, you can remove and then replace the number 9 fuse in the boot fuse box. This often re-sets the pump, providing it is working, and will give full operation back to the soft closing system, but only for a short time. A permanent fix is a little more involved. It gives full operation back because when the pump operates, and it pressures the doors closed rather than sucks them closed with a vacuum, it pushes until it reaches a pre-set pressure and then stops. However, if it does not reach this pressure for whatever reason in a specified time it cuts off and the electronics charge a 'time out' to that line. After two time outs the line is cut off permanently. Pulling the fuse causes a re-set in the system and it will work for a further two closes. If this happens then you have the reassurance that the system is basically OK and by doing a relatively simple tweak to lower the pre-set pressure you can make this fix permanent.
Interestingly, after the doors have been pushed closed, the pump then reverses and a vacuum is applied to the lines presumably to pull the actuators back in case the actuator springs do not do a full retraction for whatever reason. You can hear all this happen if you listen carefully - the doors are pushed in beyond their normal locking limit, the pump stops and the doors 'relax' and move out slightly to their normal closed position and then you hear the vacuum pump chug for a few seconds. It is marvellous to behold."
That's just a bit of background. I am giving you the link to the site that solved my problem. I followed the first part up to:
e. A case of a bad pressure shut-off diaphragm
I did not need to go any further as it solved my problem completely. If you are lucky it will do the same for you. It looks complicated but it is just a matter of slow and careful.
http://v12uberalles.org/Closing_Assist_Pump/Closing_Assist_Pump.html?i=1
If for some reason the link does not work just search for Getting to Know your Closing Assist Pump: Function, Tips, and Fixes, by Brett Allison
Good luck
Alan
Congratulations on your new W140. I loved mine.
First, an assumption. Your boot lid won't fully close however hard you push and all your doors don't soft close either. I had exactly the same symptoms six years ago and there is a reason for it. When we first wrote here is what I said.
"As a first fix, and something Mazi could try, you can remove and then replace the number 9 fuse in the boot fuse box. This often re-sets the pump, providing it is working, and will give full operation back to the soft closing system, but only for a short time. A permanent fix is a little more involved. It gives full operation back because when the pump operates, and it pressures the doors closed rather than sucks them closed with a vacuum, it pushes until it reaches a pre-set pressure and then stops. However, if it does not reach this pressure for whatever reason in a specified time it cuts off and the electronics charge a 'time out' to that line. After two time outs the line is cut off permanently. Pulling the fuse causes a re-set in the system and it will work for a further two closes. If this happens then you have the reassurance that the system is basically OK and by doing a relatively simple tweak to lower the pre-set pressure you can make this fix permanent.
Interestingly, after the doors have been pushed closed, the pump then reverses and a vacuum is applied to the lines presumably to pull the actuators back in case the actuator springs do not do a full retraction for whatever reason. You can hear all this happen if you listen carefully - the doors are pushed in beyond their normal locking limit, the pump stops and the doors 'relax' and move out slightly to their normal closed position and then you hear the vacuum pump chug for a few seconds. It is marvellous to behold."
That's just a bit of background. I am giving you the link to the site that solved my problem. I followed the first part up to:
e. A case of a bad pressure shut-off diaphragm
I did not need to go any further as it solved my problem completely. If you are lucky it will do the same for you. It looks complicated but it is just a matter of slow and careful.
http://v12uberalles.org/Closing_Assist_Pump/Closing_Assist_Pump.html?i=1
If for some reason the link does not work just search for Getting to Know your Closing Assist Pump: Function, Tips, and Fixes, by Brett Allison
Good luck
Alan
