W202 Boot Lock Fix.

LUCKHAM

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Help please!

Hi All

I have just purchased a 2001 W208 CLK320 and on the 2nd day of ownership the auto boot release from the key fob stopped working.

I then tried the internal button to no avail, and lastly I tried to insert the emergency key into the lock and that would only go in the lock about 2/3's of the way..

So essentially I was completely locked out of the boot, and to make matters worse I had just been shopping and I had a load of food in there!.. :neutral:

I then managed to gain access via the rear seat and proceeded to dismantle the lock assembly (bottom part) so that I could gain access from the outside.

I managed to do this after a lot of fiddling about, so the next thing I did was to check all of the fuses (which were all ok) I then dismantled the top part of the lock (on the boot lid) and could see that it had an electrical wire and the vacuum line going into it..

The question I have is if the lock barrel is seized, would this prevent the vacuum pump from operating? or do you recon that the both the pump and the lock have failed simultaneously? (which would seem odd) Lastly what is the electric wire for? There didn't seem to be any current going through this when it was disconnected from the lock (even when I pressed the boot release button).

Thanks in advance to anyone that can assist me with this issue.. :)
 
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D

Dec

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Is the vacuum pump working but failing to unlock the boot?
OR
Is the vacuum pump not working at all?

The lock barrel is seized, probably been like that for some time, you are only finding out about it now as you have had to use the key.

Your main priority now is to free up the seized lock so as to restore access to the boot via the key, you may need to dismantle the lock to get it working again

Dec
 

LUCKHAM

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Hi Dec

Thanks for your response - it's appreciated.

I managed to dismantle the lock and have got it to open and close without issue by turning one of the lock components upside down - by doing this it means that the boot will open and shut but not lock with the central locking which obviously presents a security issue.

I am however interested to know if a siezed lock would cause the vacuum system to fail to operate, If this is not the case then I have a siezed lock and a vacuum system fault as well.. I'm hoping however that a siezed lock could stop the vacuum system from working as the barrel needs to rotate for the vac system to work..

Any ideas if this is the case?

Thanks all :)
 
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Dec

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Is your boot lock very similar to the one in page 1 of this thread?

The only time the lock barrel will turns is when the key blade is turned in the lock… this moves Lever B, in picture below, up or down.

When the boot lock is unlocked via the vacuum pump (i.e. remote fob) then the lock barrel DOES NOT TURN… however the vacuum pump either blows or sucks air and moves Lever B up or down.

In both cases, when the boot is unlocked either by key blade or vacuum pump, a human must still push the lock inwards to open the boot.

If you have turned a component of the lock upside down then its not going to work properly, we really need a picture or 2 of the lock to understand what the problem is.

Dec
E.jpg
 

toptoad

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Excellent W202 C36 lock replacement write-up

Thankyou for your excellent write-up, I just did my seized boot lock today.
I have owned my C36 for around 9 years, and it has always had a seized boot and passanger lock in my ownership.
So today I decided that I could no longer just rely on the vacuum lock for boot access.

Just a couple of points that may help future people fixing the locks....

1) When you come to seperating the barrel chamber from the outer sleave, I lubricated the inner sleave with WD-40 firstly. Then I placed a slim flat head screw driver down the key entry slot and tapped the inner barrel out...(It was in there hard)

2)On my lock the inner key pins/levers were corroded in solid, so the was no chance of them falling out if the key was removed. It took a good couple of hours at this stage to tap each pin out and clean and lubricate.
3) I left the last two pins closest to the access key hole in place as they were not going anywhere. (The were stuck in the open position so no harm in leaving)

Well thats my bit

Thanks again for the time spent on writing this post for all..
 

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merc11

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Hi Dec thanks for this great write up which ive been following as my boot lock is seized ive got as far as getting the barrel out but i cant get into the barrel to reach the pins and springs how does the outer barrel casing seperate from the barrel?

Also my key doesnt go all the way into barrel any help is appreciated.
 

hamac

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Did it

Hello,
first of all thanks for such detail work instruction, it really worked and helped. Just for sharing my experience:
1. Picture C: I helped with needle-nose pliers when pulling off the vacuum line.
2. Picture H: I tried to pull off the lock barrel, but without luck. I tried to spray several time with WD40, but without luck, the lock barrel remained stuck. I had to push with small screwdriver from behind (front of lock), but then fell out and disassemble like in picture L and also many levers fell out. So I had to try which fits in.
Suggestion: When in step H, I suggest that the key is inserted and pushed with it, just enough to broke the corrosion that holds the lock barrel.
Again thanks and best regards
 

area51

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Firstly, thanks to Dec for all the detailed photos. These were a huge help when it came to dismantling the boot lock on my (pre-facelift) W168.

The W168 boot lock is very similar to the W202. The spring loaded section that returns the key to the vertical position was partially seized on mine.

The barrel itself is totally seized and is now soaking in a turps/oil bath. Hopefully it will free up!
 

television

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I do wish that Dec was still posting, he is a very clever guy and so much good information.
 

area51

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So far, so good. Soaking the boot lock barrel assembly in a mixture of turps and power steering fluid has done the trick. The inner lock barrel now turns freely in the outer case.

I would like to remove the inner barrel from the outer case so that I can clean and properly grease all the tumblers. However there seems to be some kind of fixed retaining tang on the end of the inner barrel (furthest from the key) that prevents its removal.

I am wondering if this is actually a tumbler that is seized? I would have expected all the tumblers to run within the outer case.:confused:
 

amazighman

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Thanks for the very useful thread..
I removed my boot lock and had a ago following your method....my lock barrel was shockingly full of lime scale and the levers were all seized solid....
Lock lubricant didn't work so I decided to immerse it in jenolite acid which did the trick.... Though it removed the coating too...but I used some wel through thin primer and lot of grease....
The stupid bit is I can't find the e clip.....that small one end of shaft..
Does anyone know the correct size for them?
Thx
 

ourtomtom

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Boot Lock

Did what it said on the can, sound advice Lovely Jubbly
Tom


It is important that the boot and indeed door lock are working properly.

The use of remote central locking means keys are seldom used to open the boot. This irregular use of the key in the lock over long periods of time can result in corrosion and seizure of the lock mechanism, this can become a big problem if the central locking or vacuum pump fails and the boot can’t be accessed via the key.

If the key can’t enter the lock fully then some of the levers are seized or the key you are using is not the correct key for the lock.
Probably, in 99% of cases, when the key wont turn in the lock there is nothing broken, bent or worn inside the lock, it is just that the mechanism is bone dry and corrosion has built up, adding to the problem, lubrication solves that.

The condition of the lock in Picture A looks a lot worse than it actually was, lubricating it in the way described in the last picture (P) would have solved the problem, without the need to dismantle the whole unit.

This boot lock is non-electric on a 1994 C180 = W202 and is Locked/Unlocked by the vacuum pump or by the key.
After all the components were cleaned up, the only lubricant I used was thick grease, every thing that moves, slides or rotates was given plenty of grease.

Tools required;
Work on the ******* table over an old towel, to catch any small components, springs etc that may be dropped
Fine sandpaper to wipe the brass levers, don’t over do it, but clean them just enough to allow them to move freely in their slots.
Sewing needle for clearing out slots.
1 Spanner or socket, 12mm.
Needle nose pliers.
Small screwdrivers.
WD40
Thick grease
Allow yourself plenty of time, not a job to be rushed.
Pen and paper to keep track of which lever belongs in which slot when dismantling the lock barrel.

Managed to open boot following advice did what it said on the can lovely jubbly
Tom



Dec
Edit, anyone know why these pictures don’t appear?

A.jpg


B.jpg


C.jpg


D.jpg


E.jpg


F.jpg


G.jpg
 

ajlsl600

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clk3202001,sl6002003 with everything regrettably sold ,A class 170cdi auto. NG/TF1800 ML250
great guide , did my w208 a few yr ago after getting locked out from flat battery and lock siezed , i reflied the brass tumbler plates to get mine to work again with the key ( i think i mixed one up dissmantling it) anyway since i have been very much concerned with the regular use of the key blade and oiling the locks and since have had no dramas .
 

tjamesbo

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Got to do this on both my 202 and my W208 both had soakings of Penetrant and have even been vibrated with the key in ( dont ask ) no joy so i really must do this to avoid the Tin opener solution :eek:
 

tjamesbo

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hanks for the very useful thread..
I removed my boot lock and had a ago following your method....my lock barrel was shockingly full of lime scale and the levers were all seized solid....
Lock lubricant didn't work so I decided to immerse it in jenolite acid which did the trick.... Though it removed the coating too...but I used some wel through thin primer and lot of grease....
The stupid bit is I can't find the e clip.....that small one end of shaft..
Does anyone know the correct size for them?
Thx
Following in ur footsteps:D my CLK boot failed on the remote / interior switch so got in via the first aid box and cable pull route
Got the Lock dismantled but cant get the key in its been descaled and is currently sat in penetrating fluid I have the end pin out if you need to size it give me a ring you had a text from me
am I right in thinking that i need to get the key all the way in in order to pull the barrel out ?? key only goes half way in at moment .
Boyd
 

tjamesbo

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15784DB7-2835-43B5-AEBC-719232D91286.jpg

lock barrel sorted but these bits are not moving correctly eventually seperated them ( 15mins in hot descaler ) had to take the spring out as i think the bottom part jumped its location during the freeing up process so now I have 2 problems
How much is the inner part of the part on the left meant to turn ? at moment it only turns from say 10-12 o clock i seem to have 2 ball bearings not 1 there is one sprung one and one seemingly not sprung but maybe is ( very rusty corroded ) but moves out when the inner part is rotated not sure if it should move more than this very short range and dont want to force it
Second problem is cant see where the bottom lug of the spring engages or locks not possible to see in pictures so far top part ok its the lug at the bottom :confused:
This lock rebuild is like a major project in itself only thing driving me on is that my 202 needs same :(
Boyd
 
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diggerdave

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Just thought I'd add my thanks to the OP (nearly ten tears ago!) and subsequent comments for helping me to fix my C200's bootlock. In my case the inner barrel had simply corroded sufficiently that it was stuck in the outer barrel (all the levers worked fine) and a strip down and re-grease was all that was required.
 
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