W203 front suspension "rubbery squeak"!

[Oldspanners]

Just back after a run in 34C heat and squeakless. I injected 0.7ml (how's that for precision) of ATF into the bottom ball joint as shown in the video and it's gone. Bottom arm will have to be replaced sometime hopefully when it's cooler.

 

[LostKiwi]

Just back after a run in 34C heat and squeakless. I injected 0.7ml (how's that for precision) of ATF into the bottom ball joint as shown in the video and it's gone. Bottom arm will have to be replaced sometime hopefully when it's cooler.

Sounds like thats the problem then.

 

[DREAMER NO2]

Another good one . Happy you solved it .

 

[Oldspanners]

Sounds like thats the problem then.

Certainly more confident as it seems to fit in with what I found out after dismantling the suspension i.e. that there was a slight stickiness in the movement of that ball joint.
I also note that the suspension arms seem to be clamped into the cross member and the only movement comes from the rubber bush itself, meaning that if you tighten it up on full droop the bush will be at the end of its normal travel when on the level and under a lot of strain on full bump. So you need to tighten them up when the car is level on its wheels to keep it in the centre of its play.
Still don't understand why they made them 21mm nuts and bolts actually had to buy a new spanner!

 

[Oldspanners]

Another good one . Happy you solved it .

Certainly more confident this time but you never know!

 

[Oldspanners]

Squeak still gone so I'm satisfied that was the problem.
Just to add, tightening up the bolts on the suspension arms to the chassis torque setting is 80Nm and 120 degrees at the standard ride height. I measured this at 37 cm from wheel centre to wheel arch and jacked up the suspension to match. The other thing is you will need a shallow 21mm socket to fit between the steering rack and the nut on the lower arm.

 

[daibevan]

Certainly more confident as it seems to fit in with what I found out after dismantling the suspension i.e. that there was a slight stickiness in the movement of that ball joint.
I also note that the suspension arms seem to be clamped into the cross member and the only movement comes from the rubber bush itself, meaning that if you tighten it up on full droop the bush will be at the end of its normal travel when on the level and under a lot of strain on full bump. So you need to tighten them up when the car is level on its wheels to keep it in the centre of its play.
Still don't understand why they made them 21mm nuts and bolts actually had to buy a new spanner!

Will you change your identity now? How about "Nearly all Oldspanners", I'm sure there are some good ideas out there! (Sorry in advance).

 

[Oldspanners]

Got a point there but I suppose since I have used it, it is no longer new!
I couldn't go through a name change at this stage it was difficult enough coming up with and remembering this one, thanks.

 

[onefortheroad]

1min 25 seconds in ----

i recently changed both of my lower hub balljoints at 85k and tbh they were in a fatal to very very dangerous condition , but still passing mots. when i split them from the arm with a pickle fork they literally split into 2 . food for thought id say ..

 

[LostKiwi]

1min 25 seconds in ----

i recently changed both of my lower hub balljoints at 85k and tbh they were in a fatal to very very dangerous condition , but still passing mots. when i split them from the arm with a pickle fork they literally split into 2 . food for thought id say ..

I recall our own Cole having a squeaky ball joint on his 300CE which let go unexpectedly.

 

[onefortheroad]

I recall our own Cole having a squeaky ball joint on his 300CE which let go unexpectedly.

very surprised mine didnt , it was a new car for me so i wanted to change them . the boots were not split , but the joints were dry and very rusty , a few smart cracks with a hammer and they simply split , ball from joint - scary !!!

 

[Oldspanners]

1min 25 seconds in ----

i recently changed both of my lower hub balljoints at 85k and tbh they were in a fatal to very very dangerous condition , but still passing mots. when i split them from the arm with a pickle fork they literally split into 2 . food for thought id say ..

Yes, I'd seen that video on the E class and I will change both the front lower joints soon.
I'm certain on my C class there is no play in the joint as I had both arms off the chassis and gave them a thorough going over to check for any play in any direction.

 

[Oldspanners]

Final update changed the lower arm yesterday as within a less than 200 Kms it started to rattle and vibrate under braking.
Moral; once you've got a squeak you've got to change the part.