W211 blue smoke after idle

Darrendazza

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While running...also check the amount of vapour......have a rag handy as oil will splash out, splashing oil is normal from the cam/chain directly under.
Just I'm about to redue my oil catch can using MUCH biger internal diameter pipe.....any build up of blowby pressure in the crank case will I think restrict oil flow back to the sump from the turbo oil feed....its just a theory......it will then be forced out of the rear seal...only drips but on idle will build up and smoke.....but while driving would be un-noticable!
So would be interested in someone else with the same or similar issue doing the same test....
Just checked this cc as it was just to small 5mm Id so I’m wondering if that what was causing the oil up the dipstick tube got all 12mm pipe n connectors but no good if going though a 5mm cc in/outlet that’s a 10mm inlet in pic 3 with the (12mm meant to be) sitting inside it lol so taken out now argue with seller then get the cc u linked me to see how she goes from there
 

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R0SSY

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Exactly the same for me...I've just changed to 16mm Internal Diameter and changed the fittings on the catch can as it came with differnat sizes.....I've got to put some elbows in as still kinks on the bends when the engine gets warm.....
 

Wighty

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I have the blue pipe mode too on the bat wing....it was I think originaly for the same motor in the Jeep (does not have the bat wing)...but as its the same motor and turbo it does the job!
So many have this issue but so few have a defo fix....I'm even thinking of trying Restore Engine Restorer as by many many accounts its one thats NOT a snake oil and realy does work! So if mine is blowby....and it gets better after using at least I know...if not its not going to do any harm......
What’s this blue pipe on the batwing mod buddy ?
 

R0SSY

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What’s this blue pipe on the batwing mod buddy ?
When you fit the new red seals the bat wing can split.....theres a Mod...
Was for the OM642 in the Jeep...but works on our too...
1387795983106-jpg.70474
 

Darrendazza

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What’s this blue pipe on the batwing mod buddy ?
Rossy beat me to the reply bud but that’s it u have to cut abit of the batwing but it eliminates the orange n red turbo hoses
 

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Darrendazza

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Exactly the same for me...I've just changed to 16mm Internal Diameter and changed the fittings on the catch can as it came with differnat sizes.....I've got to put some elbows in as still kinks on the bends when the engine gets warm.....
What u been getting oil up the dipstick tube even with the 12mm id I might just go the same as on my s3 and use 19mm if ur still getting oil up the tube at 12mm
 

R0SSY

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Like you I think it was more the fitting only being like 6mm ID.....I think you'll always get oil out the dipstick with engine running as the tube goes in to the oil itself....but I had pressure when removing the oil cap and now with the 16mm ID I don't. But just gotta make few more MODs as because its much bigger pipe it kinks on the bends when warm...so going to put some elbows in...
 
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Wighty

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When you fit the new red seals the bat wing can split.....theres a Mod...
Was for the OM642 in the Jeep...but works on our too...
1387795983106-jpg.70474
Cheers buddy , I have seen that from one of the German manufacturers before (Kraftwerk ?) . I have been using a small amount of high temp sealant around the red seal , which pretty much makes it bomb proof even with removal and refitting .
I have cut a salmon tin down so that it slides under the orange seal and collects any oil so I can check if the orange seal is leaking . This is known globally as “The Wighty Salmon Tin Mod “
 

R0SSY

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Cheers buddy , I have seen that from one of the German manufacturers before (Kraftwerk ?) . I have been using a small amount of high temp sealant around the red seal , which pretty much makes it bomb proof even with removal and refitting .
I have cut a salmon tin down so that it slides under the orange seal and collects any oil so I can check if the orange seal is leaking . This is known globally as “The Wighty Salmon Tin Mod “

There is no oil to catch under the turbo seal if you fit a catch can as that catches it lol .....:)
 

R0SSY

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Wighty

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There is no oil to catch under the turbo seal if you fit a catch can as that catches it lol .....:)
I know :D , I don’t have the catch can on anymore though after fitting a new pcv
 

R0SSY

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I know :D , I don’t have the catch can on anymore though after fitting a new pcv
WHAT???? my MB Indi said it was the best and needed MOD to these engines.......prevents Swirl motor and flaps failing.....egr gunking......list goes on....:)
 

Wighty

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WHAT???? my MB Indi said it was the best and needed MOD to these engines.......prevents Swirl motor and flaps failing.....egr gunking......list goes on....:)
He’s right , I have done the resistor mod at 100k miles . I might revisit the catch can at a later date if I get an oil cooler seal failure and have the manifolds cleaned out
 

Darrendazza

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Like you I think it was more the fitting only being like 6mm ID.....I think you'll always get oil out the dipstick with engine running as the tube goes in to the oil itself....but I had pressure when removing the oil cap and now with the 16mm ID I don't. But just gotta make few more MODs as because its much bigger pipe it kinks on the bends when warm...so going to put some elbows in...
A quick mod till u get the elbows bud use a cable tie on the bends it should stop it kinking till u get the elbows
 

Darrendazza

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WHAT???? my MB Indi said it was the best and needed MOD to these engines.......prevents Swirl motor and flaps failing.....egr gunking......list goes on....:)
I cleaned my mannis egr new swirl flap arms when I done the oil cooler seals all new gaskets on every bit that came off too cooler sorted but gotta sort this smoking fret 5-10mins idle it’s a pita lol
 

Darrendazza

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so many posts with the same issue and no one ever posts about what they did to fix it, so far i have changed 4 injectors which made no difference and shutting off the remaining injector on each bank did nothing. pulled intercooler pipe off which made no difference so its not that side of turbo, pulled pipe off the exhaust side, no oil came out just smoke so if it is the turbo exhaust side its burning off inside there, got some lucas stop leak coming this week to put in the oil just incase its the valve stem seals.


my issue is after 5 mins of idle if i rev it or drive it theres clouds of smoke once cleared no smoke till its left to idle for 5 mins or more again.
How long did I leave each injector unplugged while running I’m gonna give this a try gonna let it idle for the 5-10mins then unplug each 1 at a time but how long should I leave it run for each unplugged to see if it makes any diff in the amount of smoke cheers
 

R0SSY

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Is it WHITE Smoke...and does your oil level go up.....then leaking injector.....if blue I still say crank pressure preventing oil feed into turbo from returning to sump.....its forced slowly through the (Priston ring type seal, so has a gap) on the rear...drips into the housing...then when there is enough built up it smokes....but then when you drive, 1, less crank pressure as turbo vacume via PCV then clears until idles again 2, theres so little you can't see it anyway. Also I found once it smokes.....turn it off and leave it 3 days later...still smokes from start because you did not drive it and clear it...thus not injectors....but again its just theories....Darrendazza....our symptoms as similar bar the time....mine takes a lot longer, at least 20mins if not 30hr.
You still not answered my question of blowby...when your engine is at 90 (or normal operating temp) and you loosen the oil filler cap, is there pressure like opening a bottle of fizzy drink??
Once I've complete my catch can to satisfaction....I'm going to try the waiting thing again to check for smoke.....
 

Doug1234

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How long did I leave each injector unplugged while running I’m gonna give this a try gonna let it idle for the 5-10mins then unplug each 1 at a time but how long should I leave it run for each unplugged to see if it makes any diff in the amount of smoke cheers

Not recommended to unplug these piezo injectors and run engine, they need to be turned off via code reader / diagnostics to avoid ecu damage I believe
 


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