w211 Harman Kardon stereo no sound

[matthew k]

Ok, I managed to get it out (thanks again Botus, V helpful pic) and have the unit in front of me! My phones camara has stopped working so I can't take a pic. But I have the part numbers. Q01
A211 870 40 89
Model no BE 9005

The serial no presumably is the order of manufacture, so the higher the newer? I've found a few for sale, but one is the same apart from the BE number which is 9006. Is that number critical?

I have also realized I have had previous experince with BBA Reman, they repaired a VAG abs/esp module for me and did a very good job of it, so I'm a bit torn as what to do. Any information on the part no's etc would be great. Thanks!

 

[Botus]

I've used BBA to do an ABS module, good price quick turn around no issues.... the merc amp is a different game, no one has yet even identified what fails or what companies have attempted to repair

I suspect its a reflow issue and none have lasted, *lookup xbox reflow on YouTube…. you can physically use a gas blow torch re-melt the solder holding a chipset on the circuit board.... I even did it on an old lap top once.... lasted 6 months till it got hot and bothered again

 

[Alfie]

Ok, I managed to get it out (thanks again Botus, V helpful pic) and have the unit in front of me! My phones camara has stopped working so I can't take a pic. But I have the part numbers. Q01
A211 870 40 89
Model no BE 9005

The serial no presumably is the order of manufacture, so the higher the newer? I've found a few for sale, but one is the same apart from the BE number which is 9006. Is that number critical?

I have also realized I have had previous experince with BBA Reman, they repaired a VAG abs/esp module for me and did a very good job of it, so I'm a bit torn as what to do. Any information on the part no's etc would be great. Thanks!

The HK ones are different to the cars without HK. If the car has HK (option code 810) then you should get the correct one.

That said, a non HK amp/AGW will fit and work in your car but you wont get all the audio channels.

Also, the A221 amps are totally different to the A211 ones. (NTG3 vs NTG1)

 

[matthew k]

The HK ones are different to the cars without HK. If the car has HK (option code 810) then you should get the correct one.

That said, a non HK amp/AGW will fit and work in your car but you wont get all the audio channels.

Also, the A221 amps are totally different to the A211 ones. (NTG3 vs NTG1)

I'm only considering a HK replacement. I recieved a replacement from a breakers, 'tested' but sadly it didn't work, their going to refund me the money once Ive sent it back so not the end of the world. This is very annoying though, shame it's not better quality. I may end up sending it to BBA Reman.

 

[Alfie]

I'm only considering a HK replacement. I recieved a replacement from a breakers, 'tested' but sadly it didn't work, their going to refund me the money once Ive sent it back so not the end of the world. This is very annoying though, shame it's not better quality. I may end up sending it to BBA Reman.

Ive got a used and warranted one in stock. £450 fitted and coded if you want it.

 

[matthew k]

Ive got a used and warranted one in stock. £450 fitted and coded if you want it.

Thanks, but that's probably a bit more than I'm willing to spend. TBH if I can't sort this for around £200 I'm going to leave it. It's a shame, nice condition car with good provinace and history, I've just been a bit unlucky, but I'm unwilling to spend much more on it. It's a shame because driving it has a calming effect on me that I like. It's great for setting the cruise control at 70 mph and just chilling out in, the handling isn't great, but it's a good cruiser, tyres are lasting well too!

 

[matthew k]

I've just spoken to BBA Reman in regards to my amp. They've tested it and have found evidence of fire damage within the unit and the only way to repair it is to fully refurbish the whole unit.

 

[Botus]

they haven't fix one yet... they don't even know what's broken... water damage on the last guy that sent one... nether likely to have had either.... except if someone already tried to reflow yours

don't think this is 1 April stuff…. it does work !!!

this guy was a bit more careful

 

[matthew k]

Humm, I'm not sure what to do now, they want £550 which seems excessive. If I as for it back I have to pay a £35 testing fee, plus a total of £36 postage. I'm starting to regret sending it to them TBH.

they haven't fix one yet... they don't even know what's broken... water damage on the last guy that sent one... nether likely to have had either.... except if someone already tried to reflow yours

don't think this is 1 April stuff…. it does work !!!

this guy was a bit more careful

 

[McDonald]

Alfie's £450 fitted looks like your best bet.

 

[KennyN]

On a car that is around 14 years old i would bin the standard HU in favour of an Android unit , which will have more bells + whistles, and use its onboard amp to feed the original speakers.

It maybe a bit more of a faff but it may have been the best option in the long run.

Kenny

 

[Botus]

that's not a bad shout....

On some cars the comand does all the HAVC stuff so you get in a pickle.... I think you have lots of toys all connected via the AGW but its only toys, not essentials, so an aftermarket one (if you can find a quality one that'll last - lots looks good and do 9 to 18 months) could add toys like BT streaming, modern nav, big screen, DAB and a phone if its missing that one.

The amp will be shocking quality, but the Merc ones are pretty pathetic so might not lose much, Merc ones sound ok to 1/3rd vol then way out of their depth (even HK - they might get to 40% before they forget how a speaker works... people with reasonable ear don't tend to notice till 50% and after that then its just a battle of hearing damage vs quality anyway )

 

[matthew k]

What are my options with an aftermarket head unit? Is there anything that can support 13 speakers?

 

[Botus]

you are hoping for rather a lot, if you want much the same functionality and quality as you had the 450 option from comandonline is fairly sensible

if you buy a 250 quid look alike it will be at best 80% the quality and possibly 6 months life expectancy, plus a few hours fighting to get in in and working (of course you might be very happy and it might last 3 years... but personally I doubt it very much

these are the ones I've seen some suggest are the higher end aftermarket stuff https://www.erisin.com/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&keyword=mercedes w211

if you want to do things so its better than where you were, you need to put in an amp worthy of driving at least 8 of your current speakers. good amps take control of the speakers and make them do what they could do... the std stuff is usually about 10w of pure garbage (the HK will be more but also more marketing, expect 12 OK watts and another 4 or so for the branding). They may well say 500watts on the box but its all make believe. this sort of thing https://www.audison.eu/products/ap-f8-9-bit/ will do what the HK one can only do in its dreams... (there's a long post on the internet when an S class owner threw about 6k at the issue after finding the hk set up not to his liking and only found happiness when he used one of those ones) but it'll be 700 to 800 plus fitting, then you might realise the budget speakers are holding you back by another 25% …. which could be another 600 fitted, but if you went this far then the 250 quid Chinese head unit would be a waste

 

[matthew k]

I'd like to source another amp, but I'm struggling to find one. I've messaged the user who offered one but have had no response.

 

[Tony Dyson]

they haven't fix one yet... they don't even know what's broken... water damage on the last guy that sent one... nether likely to have had either.... except if someone already tried to reflow yours

don't think this is 1 April stuff…. it does work !!!

this guy was a bit more careful

While the internet is probably the best thing since sliced bread, every now and again it really does throw up some complete rubbish! if treating electronic components in such a manner as shown in the video's any benefits you can rest assured are the product of sheer fluke than management!

Other than for specialist applications, the maximum operating temperature of a standard IC is 125°C.
Solder will reflow effectively if heated to c200°C.
The temperature of a propane gas blowtorch flame is c1,950°C, the MapGas in the video c2,050°C.

To achieve 200°C to enable effective solder reflow at the IC socket solder terminal as in the videos, temperatures by far in excess of the maximun operating temperature of the IC will have to be applied directly to the IC to conduct through the IC → IC Pins → IC Socket → solder connection.

Just do the Maths.

Not surprisingly, believing the Blowtorch option was a viable one, it would appear some clot attempted this with the OP’s Amp!

I don’t know how popular this procedure is and call me a cynic but I think the lesson here, with the advocation of such a procedure would be to open up your electronic devices before sending off to any 2nd parties and take pictures for your own records.

Personally, with such pieces of equipment, I would first of all remove and disassemble, unplug all removable connectors, and components within, clean and reassemble, you would be surprised at how often dry and tired joints/connectors are the simple cause of failure and/or poor performance in electronic components, you would just need to be careful with generating any static, reassemble and test before exploring any further if unsuccessful.

Regards

 

[matthew k]

While the internet is probably the best thing since sliced bread, every now and again it really does throw up some complete rubbish! if treating electronic components in such a manner as shown in the video's any benefits you can rest assured are the product of sheer fluke than management!

Other than for specialist applications, the maximum operating temperature of a standard IC is 125°C.
Solder will reflow effectively if heated to c200°C.
The temperature of a propane gas blowtorch flame is c1,950°C, the MapGas in the video c2,050°C.

To achieve 200°C to enable effective solder reflow at the IC socket solder terminal as in the videos, temperatures by far in excess of the maximun operating temperature of the IC will have to be applied directly to the IC to conduct through the IC → IC Pins → IC Socket → solder connection.

Just do the Maths.

Not surprisingly, believing the Blowtorch option was a viable one, it would appear some clot attempted this with the OP’s Amp!

I don’t know how popular this procedure is and call me a cynic but I think the lesson here, with the advocation of such a procedure would be to open up your electronic devices before sending off to any 2nd parties and take pictures for your own records.

Personally, with such pieces of equipment, I would first of all remove and disassemble, unplug all removable connectors, and components within, clean and reassemble, you would be surprised at how often dry and tired joints/connectors are the simple cause of failure and/or poor performance in electronic components, you would just need to be careful with generating any static, reassemble and test before exploring any further if unsuccessful.

Regards

Yeah, I regret sending it now, guess I'll never know for sure. Might have been fine, but seems unlikely. I've not heard of many other causes of failure.

 

[matthew k]

Alfie's £450 fitted looks like your best bet.

I can't get hold of him now.

 

[Botus]

While the internet is probably the best thing since sliced bread, every now and again it really does throw up some complete rubbish! if treating electronic components in such a manner as shown in the video's any benefits you can rest assured are the product of sheer fluke than management!

I've done it myself it works... until you have personally rectified and recovered lost data from laptop don't dispute its a known fix

this is a STANDARD repair for many original Xboxes... most hp laptops and Samsung phones

….a lot of laptop's graphics chips have this issue - its the perfect design to fail idea - use the device to its full potential and after a while the heat (from an under spec heat sink, poor routing of airflow and or cheap chips that run overly hot) causes the solder to breakdown and the unit is bin material.... however as "no physical component" has actually failed... no one can claim is was "designed to fail..." its just unfortunate.

unfortunately for them ! you just heat it up and it works again... and whilst you have it apart, upgrade the cooling or use decent thermal paste and they don't win every time

 

[matthew k]

OK, thanks for everyone's help so far, however, my amp is gone I think, I can't be quite sure but will have to take their word that it's knackered. So has anyone got an amp for sale?