W211 om646 crank no start

Clas

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my Mercedes e220 cdi drove fine before I got a hole in my fuel tank. It sat for 3 weeks in the snow. After that I replaced the fuel tank and it would not start. I checked with a obd2 scanner and got the code p0087. Then I checked the fuel return line and it was Clogged so I replaced it. But it still won’t start. Now the fuel won’t get to the injectors. It is not getting through the high pressure fuel pump so I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and high pressure pump but still won’t get to the injectors.
Can someone please help me?
 

ajlsl600

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Retrace ur steps on replacing tank. I suspect u have inadvertently created the problem, blown fuse? Fried a relay , bad earth, pinched or broken wire? Rule all that out prior to spending more cash.
 

Doug1234

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I have read threads like this before and it either turns out the tank or high pressure connections ( low pressure from tank ) are the wrong way around.
Just spend some time checking hoses out as nothing worse than doing lots of work to find out it’s been trying to send fuel up a return line
 
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VitoVanMan

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This reminds me of the time I needed to have a new fuel tank fitted to my Vito. How did you manage to get a hole in your fuel tank and did you fit a new fuel tank?
 
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Clas

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This reminds me of the time I needed to have a new fuel tank fitted to my Vito. How did you manage to get a hole in your fuel tank and did you fit a new fuel tank?
I drive my car pretty low to the ground so it eventually got me. I fitted a fuel tank from another car that I bought to pick parts from.
 

VitoVanMan

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I had water ingress a few years back, whilst driving close to a country lane flooded gutter. After about five miles it stalled and the AA had it towed back to the local main dealership.they identified water ingress through a non-return valve in the fuel tank, that became open and was situated on the filler feed pipe and only leaked out diesel when filled to the brim.
They drained off the 70+ litres of contaminated diesel and put another 10 litres in and still no start. So all the associated pipe work was thoroughly cleaned out as well as a new fuel filter fitted and voila perfect start. Have you fitted a new fuel filter? I also had a new tank fitted, as I didn't want a repeat performance of going through a flood. Luckily I did that with all this climate change flooding.
 
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Clas

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I had water ingress a few years back, whilst driving close to a country lane flooded gutter. After about five miles it stalled and the AA had it towed back to the local main dealership.they identified water ingress through a non-return valve in the fuel tank, that became open and was situated on the filler feed pipe and only leaked out diesel when filled to the brim.
They drained off the 70+ litres of contaminated diesel and put another 10 litres in and still no start. So all the associated pipe work was thoroughly cleaned out as well as a new fuel filter fitted and voila perfect start. Have you fitted a new fuel filter? I also had a new tank fitted, as I didn't want a repeat performance of going through a flood. Luckily I did that with all this climate change flooding.
I had water ingress a few years back, whilst driving close to a country lane flooded gutter. After about five miles it stalled and the AA had it towed back to the local main dealership.they identified water ingress through a non-return valve in the fuel tank, that became open and was situated on the filler feed pipe and only leaked out diesel when filled to the brim.
They drained off the 70+ litres of contaminated diesel and put another 10 litres in and still no start. So all the associated pipe work was thoroughly cleaned out as well as a new fuel filter fitted and voila perfect start. Have you fitted a new fuel filter? I also had a new tank fitted, as I didn't want a repeat performance of going through a flood. Luckily I did that with all this climate change flooding.
yeah I’ve fitted a new fuel filter.
 
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Clas

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Do you have delivery pressure of 4.2 bar from the pumps in the tank? You can measure this using the live data on a scanner.
I couldn’t check the pressure with the obd scanner I have. But now I have 4 fault codes P0102. P0243. P0489. P2009. Could these cause the car not to start?
 

VitoVanMan

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I guess you have an OBDII reader which are fine for throwing up fault codes....however it might be prudent to invest in a scanner...I know you are looking at big bucks initially, but they give out so much more information and solutions off google to your problem.
I had an OBDII reader and returned it back to amazon when I saw how limited they are.
Invested in a decent scanner and never looked back, I got my money back on the first two diagnosis.....my latest was fixing my van for £25 when the main dealer wanted over a grand to try and fix the problem...unfortunately they mis-diagnosed the problem and this would not have solved the issue.
If you know someone who has a scanner which can data stream, this will help to identify the issue.
Before I had my scanner my local MOT guy helped with an air bag issue I had, maybe you could do the same, and he pointed me as to which scanner to purchase.
 

Steve@Avantgarde

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Ignore the fault codes, start with the basics. Fault codes can appear as a consequence and not a cause and as you have been disconnecting stuff you could have introduced this yourself.

To explain...

A diesel engine must have 2 things for it to start, good compression and correct fuel pressure. You must have a minimum operating pressure of 165bar at ignition position 2 at the fuel rail for it to satisfy all other running values and for fuelling the engine into life (The ecu would otherwise assume there is a fuel leak or huge pressure loss of somekind and not start anyway). Its normal running pressure should be 285-310bar. It achieves this pressure via the high pressure fuel pump.

However the CDI system relies on a delivery pressure from the tank of 3.8-4.2 bar to feed the high pressure system. Without delivery pressure there will be no high pressure conversion and regardless of how many parts you exchange.

So check the delivery pressure first. You can do this with a fuel pressure tester connected in line on the main supply line (make sure the line is leak tight or you'll get a phony measurement) or you can use live data on a diagnostic machine.

Either way this must be your first part of your diagnosis.
 

mioba

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Have you looked at the fuel filter. If the return was clogged then the ff must be goosed.
 

Tashman

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Clogged with what exactly?
 
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Clas

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Have you looked at the fuel filter. If the return was clogged then the ff must be goosed.
I’ve replaced it
Ignore the fault codes, start with the basics. Fault codes can appear as a consequence and not a cause and as you have been disconnecting stuff you could have introduced this yourself.

To explain...

A diesel engine must have 2 things for it to start, good compression and correct fuel pressure. You must have a minimum operating pressure of 165bar at ignition position 2 at the fuel rail for it to satisfy all other running values and for fuelling the engine into life (The ecu would otherwise assume there is a fuel leak or huge pressure loss of somekind and not start anyway). Its normal running pressure should be 285-310bar. It achieves this pressure via the high pressure fuel pump.

However the CDI system relies on a delivery pressure from the tank of 3.8-4.2 bar to feed the high pressure system. Without delivery pressure there will be no high pressure conversion and regardless of how many parts you exchange.

So check the delivery pressure first. You can do this with a fuel pressure tester connected in line on the main supply line (make sure the line is leak tight or you'll get a phony measurement) or you can use live data on a diagnostic machine.

Either way this must be your first part of your diagnosis.

Ignore the fault codes, start with the basics. Fault codes can appear as a consequence and not a cause and as you have been disconnecting stuff you could have introduced this yourself.

To explain...

A diesel engine must have 2 things for it to start, good compression and correct fuel pressure. You must have a minimum operating pressure of 165bar at ignition position 2 at the fuel rail for it to satisfy all other running values and for fuelling the engine into life (The ecu would otherwise assume there is a fuel leak or huge pressure loss of somekind and not start anyway). Its normal running pressure should be 285-310bar. It achieves this pressure via the high pressure fuel pump.

However the CDI system relies on a delivery pressure from the tank of 3.8-4.2 bar to feed the high pressure system. Without delivery pressure there will be no high pressure conversion and regardless of how many parts you exchange.

So check the delivery pressure first. You can do this with a fuel pressure tester connected in line on the main supply line (make sure the line is leak tight or you'll get a phony measurement) or you can use live data on a diagnostic machine.

Either way this must be your first part of your diagnosis.
Okay. Let’s say I don’t have the pressure of 3,8-4,2. What should I do then?
 

Steve@Avantgarde

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Then you check to see if you have 12v at the pump under the seat. If you have 12v then your supply line from the ECU is ok and the pump would work which means your pump is likely duff.

If you dont have 12v supply then you have some kind of electrical issue, which could be something as simple as a blown fuse or a broken wire.
 
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Clas

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Then you check to see if you have 12v at the pump under the seat. If you have 12v then your supply line from the ECU is ok and the pump would work which means your pump is likely duff.

If you dont have 12v supply then you have some kind of electrical issue, which could be something as simple as a blown fuse or a broken wire.
I have 13 volt
 


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