W211 water in ATF fluid

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Hello guys,

I've just found out that my approved used E320CDi had it's ATF fluid and filter changed at 36K (just before I owned it at 37K) because there was water contamination from a radiator within the gearbox. I'm assured by the supplying dealer that there are no long term effects (the car has now done 46K and remains faultless so far).
Should I be worried about the longer term effects of the water/oil mix of 10K ago?
Has anyone else heard of or had this problem?

Coincidentally this means that my ATF/filter was changed just prior to my ownership and the recommended 37.5K, which is saving me almost £200 on my service in a couple of days.

Thanks,

John
 
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Thanks BlackC55, I've had a look through various threads since finding out about this.

It's the long term effect I'm concerned about. MB Hull where I bought the car from and MB Birmingham both say that changing the rad/oil/filter will have been the end of the problem, but if (according to various threads) MB don't want to pay for comprehensive rectification then that's what they would say.

My car has 6 months warranty left so I need to flush out the issue whilst still under warranty (no pun intended). Surely coolant in the ATF is coolant in the oil and can only mean trouble??

A local indie says that vibration occurs around 30 to 40mph from the torque converter on damaged cars. Mine doesn't do that but I've always thought it was a little unrefined when it's sat a tickover - you can feel a mild vibration throught the seat which I've always told myself is because it's a big diesel. Any other advice/opinions very welcome.

Thanks
 

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Not sure about the 30 - 40 mph comment. The only knowledge I have of this problem was when I helped a friend bought a 270CLK. I drove the car and it was perfect IMO, 20k miles and 25 months old. The problem showed up on the first motorway run as it vibrated between 75 - 80mph. The problem was so minor that we thought it was a tyre out of balance. When that didnt fix it she took the car back and MB diagonised the fault over the phone! no arguments as the car was under 3 years old at the time but a serious fright as the repair was over £3k I think.

If it were mine I would be paying for a reputable auto gearbox specilaists to have a look and pass an opinion whilst the car is still in warranty.
 

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If the car had the new rad and torque converter then there is nothing else to be gained, there have been no reports from anywhere in the world of problems at a later date, and I do not think that of any other test that could be done.
 

Xtractorfan

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I think if your car has done 10k mls since without any problems then the glycol contamination certainly didnt do any harm and the problem was caught in time. Having some warranty left I would be pushing the dealer to have the oil and filter changed again, they just might concede to set your mind at rest, and it wouldnt do any harm..tho if they are anything like some of the dealers i know then you will be assured that the atf has been changed, without it actually being so..remember these guys could teach Paul Daniels tricks
 

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There was something similar to this in last weeks 'Honest John' motoring agony column in the Telegraph. I think it was for earlier cars but it might be worth checking out. I have chucked the paper but it should be online somewhere
 
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Thanks fella's,

For clartity, the ATF and filter and rad have been changed,but to my knowledge, not the torque converter, hence my concern that glycol in the oil would surely cause a problem which won't go away by changing the above.
However, it has done 10K since without any probs!?? Any views on the vibes thru the seat at tickover?

Thanks again,

John
 

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Glycol contamination on the torque converter gave a humming or droning sound at low revs when pulling around 1000 to 1800 RPM
 

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Would you be able to test the noise/engine speed theory by selecting different gears with the paddle shift?
That would change the engine speed either above or below the RPM range mentioned.
I assume the humming/droning would disappear?
 

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Would you be able to test the noise/engine speed theory by selecting different gears with the paddle shift?
That would change the engine speed either above or below the RPM range mentioned.
I assume the humming/droning would disappear?

The contamination raised the surfaces on the clutch plates on the converter, and was most pronounced while slipping lightly before dropping into the next gear
 
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