W213 windows are not closing

Velryba

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Hello,


MY2016 W213 220d


Problem: windows do not close using the auto (second click on the button). If holding the button to close it manually, it will drop a bit whet it hits the top.


The car has been to the dealer and they have said that they have seen the error code and that they have updated the window module with the latest software.

It did not fix it.

I'm trying to find out what is causing it, so I can tell the dealer what needs to be fixed or fix it myself (I believe that they have just done the reset and told me about the soft. update... blah blah blah)


Each time this happens, I do the reset of each window that does not work, so that it does close auto and also with the "soft" closing.


Unfortunately after some time, it stops working again.

Not all windows at the same time and not on daily bases. More like every other day.


Any idea why is it recurring?
 

Blobcat

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Sounds like the window is seeing to much resistance when closing.
Cleaning the guides and glass then lubricating the window regulator is what I’d be trying
 

Wighty

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Yep as above , get a microfibre cloth and push the end into the channel in the door that the glass goes into . Pull the cloth around the frame to clean . Maybe spray some APC or upholstery cleaner foam into the channel first .
My rear right window plays up every few months
 
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Velryba

Velryba

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Thank you for replies....
I will do the clean, but I do not think that that is the cause....
The reason for that conclusion is that the window (when not working correctly) does not go up the first time you make it go up with the 2nd click of the button - AUTO.
It goes up fine when you hold the button.
So the system does not know that there could be any restriction......

If that makes sense.
 
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Velryba

Velryba

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BTW this morning windows not working (I call it not working.... meaning not going up AUTO on the 2nd click of the button)
Passenger front
Driver rear not

I have done the reset, so all 4 are an OK. Will see later on and will report :cool:
 

Srdl

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Is your battery giving out enough voltage? I ask because windows often need resetting after a low battery. Perhaps you have a recurring problem with the battery?
 
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Velryba

Velryba

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Is your battery giving out enough voltage? I ask because windows often need resetting after a low battery. Perhaps you have a recurring problem with the battery?

Nice one, will check that.
We are getting somewhere :geek:
 

ajlsl600

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Getting a lot of undervoltage fault codes can be another clue read fault codes if a number come up charge batt and or replace it.
 
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Velryba

Velryba

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I do not have a code reader.
Is that the OBDII?

At least that what we used to have many moons back :D
 

Janchee

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Had the same thing happen on my 2016 E class estate. Both front windows wouldn’t ****** shut and kept popping down. Reset didn’t work. If it’s chucking it down with rain, things can get heated!

Tbh, Mercedes do weird things when the battery is low. How long does it take for your start-stop to kick in?

I had my battery replaced after 3.5 years of usage (from new) and got to say, not had this issue again. My start-stop would rarely kick in. It now kicks in after like 5 mins.

Read on some forums that Mercedes saying it is a control box software issue within doors. I had all mine updated.

Agree with the posts above though about cleaning them. They are very safety orientated machines so, if you imagine a possible low battery and high friction shut - it most likely reaches the criteria to break out of the while loop! I mean, it’s not that often really that we open and close the windows (apart from driver door)
 
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Velryba

Velryba

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I do not use the start-stop, so cannot comment whether it does kick in or not.

But I can see on the mercedes me app, that the battery is not fully charged after an hour drive.
 

hmang

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yes pal , I assumed you were referencing that ?
It's the kind of 'in between area ' that causes problems .

Sure . A toasted battery won't start the car .

A battery which is ( to intents and purposes ) faulty might still start the car . However the power drain from doing so may drop the voltage to a level that upsets the car's electronics .

a decent charging system should replenish the battery levels at some point , but the low voltage may already have been sensed and sent a wobbly through various systems .

No . I'm not an auto electrician . ( can you tell ?)
 
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Velryba

Velryba

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It's the kind of 'in between area ' that causes problems .

Sure . A toasted battery won't start the car .

A battery which is ( to intents and purposes ) faulty might still start the car . However the power drain from doing so may drop the voltage to a level that upsets the car's electronics .

a decent charging system should replenish the battery levels at some point , but the low voltage may already have been sensed and sent a wobbly through various systems .

No . I'm not an auto electrician . ( can you tell ?)

40 minutes drive on motorway should be enough to charge it to the required level, I would say.

But I'm not an auto electrician either :cool::D;)
 

ajlsl600

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Read codes many related to under voltage ? Slow charge put on ctek at nights.no improvement bin batt try again
 
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Velryba

Velryba

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Read codes many related to under voltage ? Slow charge put on ctek at nights.no improvement bin batt try again

As I still have the extended warranty from MB, I will let them do the checking.
Otherwise I would do what you have suggested ajsl600.

Car booked in for the diagnostics on 12/01/2021.

Hopefully they will find the cause, which I would say is the battery and replace it....
 

Janchee

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As I still have the extended warranty from MB, I will let them do the checking.
Otherwise I would do what you have suggested ajsl600.

Car booked in for the diagnostics on 12/01/2021.

Hopefully they will find the cause, which I would say is the battery and replace it....

My car started perfectly and there was no clear issues. I bought a CTEK charger, charged it for ages, start-stop would then work for a couple of days after charging ... and then stop. Again, all electronics worked but it was during this time ... that the windows were going funny. Almost in a 'limbo' zone > Not so low to throw a code, and not high enough to operate certain functions.

Mercedes dealer STAR said charge the battery and try again, and then they decided to just replace it. Mercedes contributed 60% towards the cost (£380 in total or something).

If you have extended warranty, they will most likely just change it out. It's a simple process (one battery) and it's two clips under the bonnet. If Mercedes Me is not showing fully charged, then that is a good signal that a code might of been produced by the car.

BTW, just double check all the LED's on your car > Door handles and under mirrors. These are expensive (labour) to replace, so if they've gone (common on this model), get em switched under extended warranty. P.s who is the extended warranty from? Merc?

Note for future readers ... READ THE CTEK CHARGING INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE CHARGING BATTERY ON CAR. HIGH VOLTAGE CAN DAMAGE YOUR ELECTRONICS.
 

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