Waxoyl

Ranjo

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Can anyone advise is it worth spraying the insides of the wheel arches on my 97 c180 with waxoyl or some kind of similar product/
Although the arches on my car are showing no signs of rust yet, most of the R regs that i have seen around are rusting on the front and sometimes rear arches
My car is dark blue however i have noticed that for some reason the champagne gold coloured ones seems to be the most rusty! :shock:
 

carabind

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if the arches are sound, then the existing treatment is working well. applying waxoyl can only prolong that. Suggest you wait till summer when it' s bone dry, that will save you locking in any mositure and asking things worse, better still give the arches a good jet wash a week or so before to get rid of any dirt/mud
 

jibcl500

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I use used engine oil, remove any inner plastic coverings and then paint it on, put plenty of cardboard underneath as it will drip, leave to hang for a while and clean anything thats where it shouldnt be, cover the disk and caliper with a black bag !!! best done on a hot day and then take for a blast on some dusty roads, the dust helps to dry out the oil and keep it in place.



jib
 

Xtractorfan

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As stated waxoyl will only help to combat the rust and dampness, certainly worth doing on a car that is sound and as said get rid of the muck first
 
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Ranjo

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  • Thread Starter
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thanks guys im off to get the waxoyl now while im gone any chance one of you fellas can make the sun come out please:cool:
 

Mercedes 190E

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2013 C220 CDI, 2004 A140 Classic SE (Parents!)
Before you use the Waxoyl, stand the can in a bucket of very hot water which will thin it out and mean it can creep into all the nooks and crannies much easier.
 

television

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2002 SL500, 216 CL500, all fully loaded
Old engine oil should not be used as it will make things worse, the wheel arch liners are plastic so no point in doing them. The part that should be wax oiled is the inside of inside of the lip around the wheel arch, use a plastic object to hook out all of the mud the hose off and wax oil, if the rear arches are steel then do the same and do it all
 

wireman

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nice 201 2.5D 1993 & very nice 129 SL500 1994
Beware of the searching properties of waxoyl, it can creep under degrading paint and make it fall off.
I once did a gallon onto an Etype and the paint aruond the wheel arches came of in sheets about a month later, the owner was mucho pi55'd.
 

SilverSaloon

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myself an ST4 discussed putting some sort of sealant in the lips of the arches at the scottish meet.

i mean the external silicone sealant you can buy at B&Q etc. Just filling the lip all the way along the inner arch.

anyone reckon this would be a good idea? any reasons why not?

thanks

derek
 

television

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Beware of the searching properties of waxoyl, it can creep under degrading paint and make it fall off.
I once did a gallon onto an Etype and the paint aruond the wheel arches came of in sheets about a month later, the owner was mucho pi55'd.

Thats odd and there must have been something wrong with the paint, I have done E types and at least 50 Jags plus many others and never a problem, ever
 

wireman

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nice 201 2.5D 1993 & very nice 129 SL500 1994
Silicone sealant contains a curing agent that allows the stuff to set in the presence of air, in house hold types this is acetic acid and it will corrode metal surfaces blackening steel and eatin on ferrous metals such as ali brass and copper, this takes some time to happen but when it does the sealant holds water and the metal dissapears.

An alternative is the silicone used to bond glass fish tanks together or one of the special types intended for encapsulation of micro electronic assemblies, unfortunatly these are more expensive.

I would use a cold galvanising paint and lard it on followed by black waxoyl also larded on.
 
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