What is a realistic cost for rear brake pipes replacement?

[umblecumbuz]

There is no law that says brake pipe renewal must follow the original route!

Anyone who pays a dealer to slavishly follow the original route even though it's more awkward and expensive is either not thinking or has money to get rid of. On a used car it makes sense to look for the most practical route when renewing brake pipes.

Common sense is obviously not hereditary!

 

[JBell]

There is no law that says brake pipe renewal must follow the original route!

Anyone who pays a dealer to slavishly follow the original route even though it's more awkward and expensive is either not thinking or has money to get rid of. On a used car it makes sense to look for the most practical route when renewing brake pipes.

Common sense is obviously not hereditary!

This is my point, when mine need doing I will get a mechanic friend to make new ones and route them through, I have seen a W204 wagon having it's pipes replaced and half the rear end was missing, massive labour costs

 

[bembo449]

don't shed loads of brake pipes over the years , very rarely go exactly where the factory ones went , long as they are neat and fixed into position , all good

 

[Brian23]

Great understatement, £1200 a little steep.

I would say its a positively vertical p take.

Yes I TOTALLY agree.

 

[00slk]

My Chrysler Charger had the brake lines running inside the car, just front seats and carpet to remove to replace the lines, however they never rusted on the inside, and the only ones I heard of that were replaced had cracks.

 

[Brian23]

Thank you

 

[Dean Fletcher]

I got quoted 250 to 300 for a full brake pipe replacement on the E Coupe.

 

[ajlsl600]

When my 1989 E-Class failed the mot because of rusty brake pipes, I bought copper brake pipe, removed the easy pipes, made up the ends with my son's flaring tool, but when it can to doing the rear it looked like the rear sub-frame had to removed. I didn't like the thought of doing that. What I did (as the copper pipe was very flexible) was to tape the new pipe to the old and as I pulled the old out, I feed the new in slowly which help to go around bends and once the new piece was in place, I used the flaring tool to finish making up the line and screwed them in to where they go. I was very impressed with myself and the estate went through its mot
Cost was £7.50 for the pipe and a few pounds for the fluid

man after my own heart. fair play to you.

 

[stevem9]

First let's try to debunk the flexi pipe option, although you could get it made up by your local hydraulic specialist even using single wire the diameter would be too big to get it through and in any event you would be unable to retain it properly so would be at risk of a major failure from wear.
Next the copper option. This is potentially OK but copper pipe work hardens and becomes VERY brittle with flexing, it's fine the first time but after that rapidly degrades, it can also be easily and deeply scratched further weakening it, it will need to be clipped rigidly in place and not bent and flexed too much getting it in or you're looking at short term failure. Furthermore the use of copper is actually illegal in some countries for exactly this reason, and I understand there has been some discussion in the UK relating to this too.
Kunifer (cupro nickle) pipe has most of the advantages of copper but is more forgiving but is also somewhat harder. You'll need a better quality flaring tool than for copper alone, but it's much easier to handle than steel. It obviously still needs to be properly supported when on the car but I have done s210, s211 and s212s and it is do-able, both sides, back into original clips, joined mid way along the car to the original and fed from the front to the rear. You need the car in the air, two people, and some long tools, forceps and cantilever long nose pliers, you also need both rear wheels off. All about 2-3 hours for both sides. Personally I would not even attempt it on the ground. When positioning the lift make sure you either have the necessary covers already off or that you can get them off as they can easily be trapped by the lift pads.

One further consideration, on some models make sure before you start the job you have the fluid reservoir completely topped up and that you do not lose any fluid unnecessarily. Close the bonnet, windows and doors before you start and remove the key. DO NOT OPEN ANYTHING UNTIL YOU HAVE FINISHED. Once you have everything connected up open the bleed nipple on one side and wait until you get fluid and no bubbles, this can take some time as you are filling the new pipe and relying on gravity, DON'T be fooled by the fluid initially coming out, that's what was left in the caliper, wait a bit and there will be a load of air after the initial fluid before you get to the new fluid. Repeat for the other side. Go back to side one and check it's airless, double check side two and check again. Once you are happy you can lower the car and open things up again. Now top up the fluid reservoir before trying the brakes. Now do not start the engine you will hopefully have a good pedal. Check for leaks and if all well start the engine and try the brakes again. If all well put the covers back on and job done.

 

[Tekcoe]

So you think a quote of £1200 a bit excessive. lol. Yes that is the quote. They said that the rear axle has to be lowered to get to the pipes etc. Yes this is a MB Garage. As I said, I had it done at an Indy and they charged me 3 hours Labour, which I thought was a little excessive as well, but it's done now.

My E350 2011 is having its rear subframe replaced under ‘goodwill’ due to corrosion, they suggested getting the rear brake pipes replaced at the same time (at my expense) as they were corroded, gave me a quote of £450! To unclip old and replace with new?! As the brake fluid, brake bleeding is in with subframe replacement, but looks like im over a barrel here!

 

[alexanderfoti]

My E350 2011 is having its rear subframe replaced under ‘goodwill’ due to corrosion, they suggested getting the rear brake pipes replaced at the same time (at my expense) as they were corroded, gave me a quote of £450! To unclip old and replace with new?! As the brake fluid, brake bleeding is in with subframe replacement, but looks like im over a barrel here!

The lines have to be made up and are supplied as one straight line from the parts dept.

 

[onefortheroad]

The lines have to be made up and are supplied as one straight line from the parts dept.

I've seen them made on the machines in Nissan Sunderland. Very interesting to watch and clever .

 

[ajlsl600]

I sure wud NOT be dropping the subframe. For maker it's all about vehicle assly time. No one there gives a shxt about later repair labour costs.

 

[EmilysDad]

I sure wud NOT be dropping the subframe. .....

but that's not the point ... .the sub-frame is being dropped anyway (to be replaced)

 

[ajlsl600]

but that's not the point ... .the sub-frame is being dropped anyway (to be replaced)

Then there shud be very little additional cost to change brake pipe.

 

[Dean Fletcher]

Then there shud be very little additional cost to change brake pipe.

I had mine done few years ago for £360 no sub frame out

 

[EmilysDad]

Then there shud be very little additional cost to change brake pipe.

I agree

 

[Mr Greedy]

What we really want is whilst the subframe is dropped, for Merc to bin the steel lines and replace with copper-nickel, so the brake lines are routed 'correctly' above the subframe. Would be a good job done for life of the car.
However, for internal policy reasons, I suspect Merc will only replace the rotting steel lines with rot-prone steel lines. Which are probably awkward to install because they are a single pre-bent piece. Hence the awkward cost.

It's a shame that the customer can't pay and ask Merc to do what I feel is the right thing here and allow copper-nickle replacement as an alternative to the rot-prone steel.

 

[malcolm E53 AMG]

MB franchise service departments won’t modify anything from factory spec why would they it could lead to liabilities. The point raised earlier about the original design being poor (re maintenance) is a subjective one but could be correct MB don’t always get things right